Selling 99. Buying 68. Need opinions, advice, etc.
#1
Racer
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Selling 99. Buying 68. Need opinions, advice, etc.
This is my first post in C3. I've been reading here for a while. Always wanted a 68 but I bought the 99 a couple of years ago. Now I'm ready to move to the C3. I'm excited about it, but I don't want to make the mistake of buying one that has a ton of problems. I've been in contact with a dealership that specializes in Corvettes. They sent me some pics of a 68 they have. Beautiful car, NOM, but that's fine with me. Not looking for matching #s, just a nice driver. One of the pics was of the front suspension and steering. There was alot of grease build up in this area. Any input on this, as well as, general information on what to look for when I go to possibly make the deal would be greately appreciated. I'm also going to check the search for information. Thanks,
Will
Will
#3
Drifting
As long as the '99 was not your every day car. The cars a quite different different on account of 30 years progress.
A little grease is no big deal. There are some different parts but more in the trim and finish than operational. The '69 is a bit more put together. Just as the '99 was over the '97.
George
A little grease is no big deal. There are some different parts but more in the trim and finish than operational. The '69 is a bit more put together. Just as the '99 was over the '97.
George
#4
Le Mans Master
1968's are great drivers to enjoy. I drive it about once a week. Convertibles have a few parts that are difficult to find /replace like on the removable hardtops. Mine has no power and I am planning on doing the power steer upgrade this winter. I had a 99 auto as a driver also, and of course the 68 is more fun.
#5
Racer
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Yeah, the 99 was fun, but time for her to go. The 68 I'm looking at doesn't have power steering or windows either. It won't be a daily driver, just my Corvette that I'll drive whenever I can. What are some things I should pay close attention to prior to purchase? Don't want to bring home a huge problem. Alot less to worry about when i purchased my C5 since it was 30 years younger. Just need some input from experienced C3 owners to help me along with my purchase.
#6
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Hiteck
Yeah, the 99 was fun, but time for her to go. The 68 I'm looking at doesn't have power steering or windows either. It won't be a daily driver, just my Corvette that I'll drive whenever I can. What are some things I should pay close attention to prior to purchase? Don't want to bring home a huge problem. Alot less to worry about when i purchased my C5 since it was 30 years younger. Just need some input from experienced C3 owners to help me along with my purchase.
Look for rust around the windshield frame AKA "The Birdcage", check for frame rust. Surface rust isn't an issue but pitted rusted out frame is. If ytou can post some pics for us it would be a great help and can hekp steer you in the right direction.
After owning a '68 I never want to own another year C3. For me the '68 is where it's at, congrats.
#7
Tech Contributor
I suggest you do a lot of research prior to going to look at the car. Get it up on a lift and walk through one end to other. I do this here for guys and once you know the cars you'll be surprised what you'll find. Don't let the fact it's on a dealers lot make you think it's right. I've been to a lot of dealers over the years and I would be very careful dealing with them. The best place to buy an old vette is from a private owner who knows the car. Most selling vettes don't know all that much. A lot of the time it's a car they bought, paid too much for, couldn't afford to fix it right and decided to dump it. Once you know what to look for and what it takes to fix them you'll be ready to look at them. If this is your first C3 then it will be a night and day difference from the C5,about the only thing the same will be the name and the 99 is probably in better shape.
Contact me if you want to go over the things to look for. I just can't type all that here.
Gary
Contact me if you want to go over the things to look for. I just can't type all that here.
Gary
#8
Drifting
Originally Posted by Corey_68
Look for rust around the windshield frame AKA "The Birdcage", check for frame rust. Surface rust isn't an issue but pitted rusted out frame is. If ytou can post some pics for us it would be a great help and can hekp steer you in the right direction.
I have worked on every system on our '69. They can all be fixed. But, it is better to drive then wrench.
George
#9
Team Owner
Originally Posted by 999
Repeat: Rust, Look at the kick-up on the frame, the portion of the frame just in front of the rear wheels. This section typically goes first. Anything else can be fixed with a little time and money , rust takes a lot of time and money to fix.
I have worked on every system on our '69. They can all be fixed. But, it is better to drive then wrench.
George
I have worked on every system on our '69. They can all be fixed. But, it is better to drive then wrench.
George
#10
Racer
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Thanks for the help guys. I've got some pics the dealer sent me. Car looks good at exterior and interior. Underbody is where I have the most concern. I'll try to post some pics. Never tried it, so may take a while.
#11
Drifting
Originally Posted by Corey_68
A little FYI though the '68 doesn't have the "kickup up's" (maybe late '68's do but mine doesn't). It this '68 does it's c ommon spot for rust.
George
#12
Drifting
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The braces came in in late 68, mine has them. Check the frame forward of the rear wheels. this is the kick up area we talk about.
Pull the kick panels from the interior and check in there for any signs of rust. This will indicate if there is rust in the birdcage. It is probably more expensive to fix the birdcage (properly) than the frame.
Everybody talks about the quality issues the 68 had. Most owners would have fixed these in the 37 years of ownership. The ones still with the quality issues will be the correctly restored units
Pull the kick panels from the interior and check in there for any signs of rust. This will indicate if there is rust in the birdcage. It is probably more expensive to fix the birdcage (properly) than the frame.
Everybody talks about the quality issues the 68 had. Most owners would have fixed these in the 37 years of ownership. The ones still with the quality issues will be the correctly restored units
#13
Racer
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Could I possibly e-mail some pics of the car to one of you guys. These are pics the dealer sent me and I can't figure out how to transfer them to this post. Plus, I don't know if he would want me to post them since the pics nor the car belong to me. Thanks. Will
#14
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your purchase may depend on your ability, or if you even want to wrench on a car. c3's are notorios for poor build quality, and the 68 is rumored to be even more so. personally i loved the fact that my 78 was junk, cause i love to wrench.a c3 can be a bad idea if you dont wanna get grease under your nails. and your gonna miss power steering/ power brakes after youve had the car awhile. but its quite possible that this may be the car for you. forum members will definitaly help out with advice and questions
#15
Le Mans Master
Hitek,
As one who has made most of the mistakes you are considering, I see numerous red flags:
1. You are not personally knowledgeable about C3s or the percularities of 68s.
2. You appear to be negotiating with a distant dealer.
3. You like the exterior paint and interior.
4. You want a casual driver which means you are probably not interested in a project car.
Almost this exact scenario started me on a VERY expensive trek to get the car I wanted. I have paid considerably more, invested countless hours and endured numerous frustrations that I could have avoided if I had been smarter and in less of a hurry.
My advice would be to contact the Corvette Club nearest the dealer and ask a member to go check it out. He will probably do it for free but if you have to pay a bit, do it.
Generally speaking, you are better off paying more to a reliable dealer for a vehicle that offers a warrranty - even if it's only 30 days.
As one who has made most of the mistakes you are considering, I see numerous red flags:
1. You are not personally knowledgeable about C3s or the percularities of 68s.
2. You appear to be negotiating with a distant dealer.
3. You like the exterior paint and interior.
4. You want a casual driver which means you are probably not interested in a project car.
Almost this exact scenario started me on a VERY expensive trek to get the car I wanted. I have paid considerably more, invested countless hours and endured numerous frustrations that I could have avoided if I had been smarter and in less of a hurry.
My advice would be to contact the Corvette Club nearest the dealer and ask a member to go check it out. He will probably do it for free but if you have to pay a bit, do it.
Generally speaking, you are better off paying more to a reliable dealer for a vehicle that offers a warrranty - even if it's only 30 days.
#16
Racer
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Thanks for the input guys. Flinhi, you're probably right. I'm probably in a hurry. I sent the pics to a Corvette Shop in my area. He should be able to view the pics and give me some input also. I might buy the car, but if I pass on it, I still have my 99, which is in perfect condition. But in the future, I'll have a C3 and you guys will probably be answering nubie questions for me. Thanks again for all of your help. That's what makes this forum the best.
#17
Race Director
Hiteck, upload your pictures to www.photobucket.com and then come back and tell us the address to the pics and we will get them on the forum for you. Or you could just email them to me and I will make space on my photobucket account. Either way.
#18
Drifting
Hello Hitek. I don't want to put a damper on your dream, but you need to drive an early C3 and make sure that this is the car you really want. I love my '72, and it's a keeper, but my dream is to have a C2. My son has a '98 and it's awesome! When he get's tired of it, (if he ever does), I'll somehow buy it from him. The main thing about C3's that I don't like is that the interior is kinda cramped for someone over 6' 2". The C2 stingrays are much roomier inside. If you're shorter, it probably won't be an issue, but make sure you spend some serious time in one behind the wheel. Otherwise, best of luck, and welcome.
#19
I suggest reading/studying the three links found in the first paragraph right here.
I second flyinhi's recommendations. You are getting into the old car hobby and it is extremely easy to get in over your head. It doesn't really matter if it is Model T Fords, Studebakers or old Corvettes - it is vital that you know what you are looking at.
I second flyinhi's recommendations. You are getting into the old car hobby and it is extremely easy to get in over your head. It doesn't really matter if it is Model T Fords, Studebakers or old Corvettes - it is vital that you know what you are looking at.