Selling 99. Buying 68. Need opinions, advice, etc.
#21
Safety Car
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I see these 68 "unique" items and probs about once a month, and have a comment:
1. The original road test back when really slammed the 68, and that rep stuck, even though later, the mag recanted.
What folks dont take into account is although the frame was nearly identical to the 67, a proven frame, basically the shell and int was the major dif. This was a major change, and very radical in the car world at that time. And quite frankly, no American car maker made a "tight car" back in the 60's, period. Sqeaks, leaks were the major probs in the 68. But later models did too. The mag stated it was almost unsafe to drive, which was NOT true
2. 68 "unique parts": The door push button mech is about the only one year thing that is not reproduced, and is a must have item. Any other part in a 68, 69 and later models parts will work, if you arent worried about perfect restoration
There are some other parts that arent reproduced (68 coupe int courtesy light), and some others, but again, 69 and later parts will fit, and work
Bottom line: Door lock mech aside, dont worry about part availability too much
3. Chances are, previous owners have squared away any of the real 68 probs first encountered by now, and none of the original probs were "dangerous"
Again, the original road test "comments" of the 68 still prevails today
1. The original road test back when really slammed the 68, and that rep stuck, even though later, the mag recanted.
What folks dont take into account is although the frame was nearly identical to the 67, a proven frame, basically the shell and int was the major dif. This was a major change, and very radical in the car world at that time. And quite frankly, no American car maker made a "tight car" back in the 60's, period. Sqeaks, leaks were the major probs in the 68. But later models did too. The mag stated it was almost unsafe to drive, which was NOT true
2. 68 "unique parts": The door push button mech is about the only one year thing that is not reproduced, and is a must have item. Any other part in a 68, 69 and later models parts will work, if you arent worried about perfect restoration
There are some other parts that arent reproduced (68 coupe int courtesy light), and some others, but again, 69 and later parts will fit, and work
Bottom line: Door lock mech aside, dont worry about part availability too much
3. Chances are, previous owners have squared away any of the real 68 probs first encountered by now, and none of the original probs were "dangerous"
Again, the original road test "comments" of the 68 still prevails today
#22
Racer
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Thanks 45ACP. I just got my computer logged in at work this morning and printed up those three links. Should help alot. Don't have a computer at home so I wasn't able to view forum yesterday.
#23
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I would suggest you contact a GM/Chevy dealer and pay the fee for a thorough inspection. May cost you 150.00 for the fee but well worth it.
The dealer will put the car or a lift, and will inspect the fuel and brake lines, frame condition, suspension, appearance both in and out....more thorough then a visual inspection. The dealer will send you a copy of the inspection report and you can make a better judgement wheather to buy with confidence or pass.
If the Corvette dealer wants to sell the 68, he will agree and drive the Vette to the inspecting dealer.
Another benefit, should something major occur, and was missed in the initial inspection, you may have some legal recourse. But I would not buy sight unseen, even with a certified inspection. I would personaly inspect the 68 with the inspection report, drive it, and if satisfied, make the deal, and drive her home.
Good luck....I have owned my 68 since 4/69, and would not part. When I'm too old to drive, my son will be the rightful owner...he loves the car and wants it now...
The dealer will put the car or a lift, and will inspect the fuel and brake lines, frame condition, suspension, appearance both in and out....more thorough then a visual inspection. The dealer will send you a copy of the inspection report and you can make a better judgement wheather to buy with confidence or pass.
If the Corvette dealer wants to sell the 68, he will agree and drive the Vette to the inspecting dealer.
Another benefit, should something major occur, and was missed in the initial inspection, you may have some legal recourse. But I would not buy sight unseen, even with a certified inspection. I would personaly inspect the 68 with the inspection report, drive it, and if satisfied, make the deal, and drive her home.
Good luck....I have owned my 68 since 4/69, and would not part. When I'm too old to drive, my son will be the rightful owner...he loves the car and wants it now...
#24
Drifting
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I only skimmed the thread, but I don't think anyone mentioned that you pay a huge premium when you buy from a dealer. Buying from a dealer doesn't assure that you are getting a quality car. Some dealers just paint the car and put in a new interior and make it look brand new, but underneath it could be in very bad condition.
Don't trust pictures. Even the highest resolution pictures hide all kinds of flaws. You really need to see it in person.
I personnaly love most of the unique features of the '68. But I still think a '69 is better car to buy if you ever want to sell it. '68s Still have a stigma that affects their resale value.
I also recommend buying the best car you can possibly afford. A proper restoration is very expensive and usually costs more than the car is worth.
So for $40,000 you can get a car that someone put $60,000 into. Or you can spend $20,000 and put $50,000 into it.
Driving a '68 will offer a different kind of joy than the '99. The '99 is true modern day high performance sports car. The '68 in it's stock for is really just a cruiser by todays standards. But with the right engine it can be very fast, and with enough work on the suspension and can have ok handling. But the real joy is the feeling you get being taken back to 1968 when you are driving.
BTW- welcome to the C3 section!
~Jay
Don't trust pictures. Even the highest resolution pictures hide all kinds of flaws. You really need to see it in person.
I personnaly love most of the unique features of the '68. But I still think a '69 is better car to buy if you ever want to sell it. '68s Still have a stigma that affects their resale value.
I also recommend buying the best car you can possibly afford. A proper restoration is very expensive and usually costs more than the car is worth.
So for $40,000 you can get a car that someone put $60,000 into. Or you can spend $20,000 and put $50,000 into it.
Driving a '68 will offer a different kind of joy than the '99. The '99 is true modern day high performance sports car. The '68 in it's stock for is really just a cruiser by todays standards. But with the right engine it can be very fast, and with enough work on the suspension and can have ok handling. But the real joy is the feeling you get being taken back to 1968 when you are driving.
BTW- welcome to the C3 section!
~Jay
#25
I Love My 68 Roadster
I have a 68 Roadster British Green matching #'s and it is great. I have some things that I have to work on, but thank god they are not major issues. I could tell you I have friends that have newer models like the 99 that you have and they always come up to my 68'. Take the car for a ride before you buy it. Check the steering and handling on it. Go under the car and check the weep holes and make sure they are not blocked or rusted over. Check to see if you see bonding strip(s). Give a good look over. You know it is not a new car and there will be problems, but if there are major ones forget it look for another one.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#26
Melting Slicks
Hiteck,
I agree with Melvin and Gdaina.
I have had my 68 since 1972 and will have it when I die. I just restored every nut and bolt of this car and was able to get every part I needed. The 68's have a bad reputation but as was said, I think it is undeserved becasee the magazines in 68 tested and early production model and later versions had the problems resolved and the mags praised the car after that but somehow people seem to forget that part. As was also stated, any issues have probably been resolved over the years by any prior owners.
My 68 doesn't have the technology of my Mercedes SL or my Audi A6 but I would take it over the other cars any day of the week. My son feels the same way and he is only 13 and is into high tech but loves the Corvette. Collectors also usually value the first and last year of a model run above the in-between models unless of course they have some exotic engine option or something, and the 68 was the first of the 68-82 run. If you like the 68, have it thoroughly checked out by someone who is knowledgable and don't let the naysayers talk you out of it.
Kurt
I agree with Melvin and Gdaina.
I have had my 68 since 1972 and will have it when I die. I just restored every nut and bolt of this car and was able to get every part I needed. The 68's have a bad reputation but as was said, I think it is undeserved becasee the magazines in 68 tested and early production model and later versions had the problems resolved and the mags praised the car after that but somehow people seem to forget that part. As was also stated, any issues have probably been resolved over the years by any prior owners.
My 68 doesn't have the technology of my Mercedes SL or my Audi A6 but I would take it over the other cars any day of the week. My son feels the same way and he is only 13 and is into high tech but loves the Corvette. Collectors also usually value the first and last year of a model run above the in-between models unless of course they have some exotic engine option or something, and the 68 was the first of the 68-82 run. If you like the 68, have it thoroughly checked out by someone who is knowledgable and don't let the naysayers talk you out of it.
Kurt
#28
Team Owner
You really need to see the car yourself before you buy it. You cannot rely on pictures. Don't let yourself have a false sense of security because you are buying from a dealer. You have to verify and confirm everything about the car. Do not rely on their representation. Too many times buyers are disappointed with what they get, and believe it was not in the condition described. Who is the dealer? (Most of the dealers do not operate secretly). What state are they located in?
#29
Racer
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I won't purchase a car sight unseen. I was going to go to Atlanta, GA this past weekend to possibly trade mine on it, but I had to work. And I can't go this weekend, I've got a golf tournament (still warm weather in SC). So it'll be at least two weeks before I could get down there to look it over. Then again, it possibly could be gone by then. No big deal, just have to find another one. It's been a big help being able to talk about the car over the forum. The only thing I know about C3s is stuff I've read in books. Never driven one. Both of my uncles had C3s when I was a kid, and I've wanted one ever since. I appreciate all of the input you guys have given me. Definately helps alot.
#31
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The 68 has a lot of one year pieces on it. There's a previous thread with a listing of the many, many unique pieces on the 68. Try a search to find this and other related postings. When you buy your 68 you'd like it to have most of these unique pieces. Look at the car in person, and take a list of the many unique parts with you and look for them. It'll make a great scavage hunt!
Don't worry about grease. The engine compartment and particularly the frame near the firewall and transmission of my 68 was coated with a thick layer of grease and sand. The grease over the years had turned to an almost varnish like substance. But when I cleaned the grease off, the underneath looked like it had just come from the factory in many places. The grease had protected the frame and parts from rust/corrosion. Heed other's comments about frame rust.
Don't worry about grease. The engine compartment and particularly the frame near the firewall and transmission of my 68 was coated with a thick layer of grease and sand. The grease over the years had turned to an almost varnish like substance. But when I cleaned the grease off, the underneath looked like it had just come from the factory in many places. The grease had protected the frame and parts from rust/corrosion. Heed other's comments about frame rust.
#32
Racer
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Originally Posted by sedowney
If you are going to 'buy a vette' in Atlanta. There is a thread somewhere about the dealer on the forum. I can't find it. Good read though.
Yes. That's the place. I'll try the search about the dealer. Thanks.
#33
Have fun on the hunt; look for the issues others have stated. I feel as well that unless you are dead set on getting a 68. You may want to open your search to include 69, not knowing most people think they are the same. Considering 68-69 will perhaps provide you with more choices. Have fun
#34
Race Director
Here is a link to the pics of the vette Will is looking at. I have them all set up at photobucket so take a look and offer up some advice for him. The car is in Atlanta and is close to the Last Detail. So if anyone happens to be in the area picking up parts anytime soon, stop over and check on this vette for him. There are about 30 pictures or so. Check them out.
1968 Vette For Sale
1968 Vette For Sale
Last edited by Eddie 70; 11-29-2005 at 10:26 PM.
#35
Racer
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Thanks Eddie for posting these. Says that my thread has been moved. Don't know where, I'm still accessing it from the C3 General. Hopefully some good advice will come along after you posted the pics. Thanks again.
Will
Will