I'm building a C3 Subwoofer box and had a questions about different years
11-02-2005, 02:40 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm building a C3 Subwoofer box and had a questions about different years
Hey All,
I've been into car audio and building subwoofer boxes since 1990 and pondered the idea of mass producing mdf boxes and kickpanel speaker pods specifically for C3's to sell on ebay. I didn't know what the market is like out there for this stuff. Keep in mind I'm not a business, just a fellow corvette lover that has a little time on his hands every now and then.
Here is my question:
Are the 67-77 and the 78-82 hatch area floor made the same other than the fact GM added a wrap around rear window in 78?
I own a 82 model right now so building pressure fit mdf 78 - 82 enclosures for 6 x 9's, 8", and 10" woofers wouldn't be a problem, I was wondering if the pre-78 models use the same floor, if so I can do these for those too.
I noticed online corvette catalogs sells these for 6 x 9's and made of particleboard for $199 and up. I know I can beat that price and offer a better quality product by far. I'm going to build the prototype and put it up on ebay and see how it does here in the next week or so.
I'm working on my kickpanels right now, fiberglassing them to hold 6.5" speakers and covering them in matching vinyl, I'll take pictures when they are finished.
Thanks!
some of the stuff I have done to my different vehicles over the years, I'm proud of it.
I've been into car audio and building subwoofer boxes since 1990 and pondered the idea of mass producing mdf boxes and kickpanel speaker pods specifically for C3's to sell on ebay. I didn't know what the market is like out there for this stuff. Keep in mind I'm not a business, just a fellow corvette lover that has a little time on his hands every now and then.
Here is my question:
Are the 67-77 and the 78-82 hatch area floor made the same other than the fact GM added a wrap around rear window in 78?
I own a 82 model right now so building pressure fit mdf 78 - 82 enclosures for 6 x 9's, 8", and 10" woofers wouldn't be a problem, I was wondering if the pre-78 models use the same floor, if so I can do these for those too.
I noticed online corvette catalogs sells these for 6 x 9's and made of particleboard for $199 and up. I know I can beat that price and offer a better quality product by far. I'm going to build the prototype and put it up on ebay and see how it does here in the next week or so.
I'm working on my kickpanels right now, fiberglassing them to hold 6.5" speakers and covering them in matching vinyl, I'll take pictures when they are finished.
Thanks!
some of the stuff I have done to my different vehicles over the years, I'm proud of it.
11-02-2005, 04:11 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Fevre
How cares whats behind you, cant hear em anyways, gotta have your priorities straight.
I did that install for a buddy of mine last summer, I tried to talk him out of covering up his rear window. It's a pain in the **** to just use those side mirrors when trying to back up, oh well he was hard headed.
I haven't seen him since I did that install for him, it's amazing how many "friends" you accumulate when you can do a certain trade like, engines, paint and body, welding, stereos etc.
I lost half of my friends when I started charging to do that type of stuff for them.
11-02-2005, 04:17 PM
#5
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Valencia (near LA) CA
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm working on my kickpanels right now, fiberglassing them to hold 6.5" speakers and covering them in matching vinyl, I'll take pictures when they are finished.
If you search the C3 forum as well as the C3 archives you'll get a good idea of what people are doing on their own. It may help to design a nice modern one size fits all solution.
The problem with that rear sound bar the is in the catalogs is that it is an old design. Us young guys want a sub in the car. Simply adding two more cheap speakers doesn't cut it for us.
For the average person storage space is precious in our cars. It will be a great challenge to make a box big enough to work with a good sub, yet not steal too much space.
Here's what I came up with:
11-02-2005, 04:45 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jay M
You may find a market for those as well. So long as they look somewhat stock and don't protrude into the already crowded footwell.
If you search the C3 forum as well as the C3 archives you'll get a good idea of what people are doing on their own. It may help to design a nice modern one size fits all solution.
The problem with that rear sound bar the is in the catalogs is that it is an old design. Us young guys want a sub in the car. Simply adding two more cheap speakers doesn't cut it for us.
For the average person storage space is precious in our cars. It will be a great challenge to make a box big enough to work with a good sub, yet not steal too much space.
Here's what I came up with:
If you search the C3 forum as well as the C3 archives you'll get a good idea of what people are doing on their own. It may help to design a nice modern one size fits all solution.
The problem with that rear sound bar the is in the catalogs is that it is an old design. Us young guys want a sub in the car. Simply adding two more cheap speakers doesn't cut it for us.
For the average person storage space is precious in our cars. It will be a great challenge to make a box big enough to work with a good sub, yet not steal too much space.
Here's what I came up with:
As far as kickpanels, I'm taking the stock kicks and glassing a baffle onto it. The depth is about 1" deeper than stock. I'm using shallow speakers so it's working out ok that way. I'm not concerned as much about an angle, because the speakers have a rotating tweeter on it.
Then I'll reinforce it, smooth it with filler and wrap it in black vinyl to match my interior. It'll blend in pretty good and add more midrange/midbass up front without having to cut up my doors.
11-02-2005, 04:52 PM
#7
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Valencia (near LA) CA
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude
As far as kickpanels, I'm taking the stock kicks and glassing a baffle onto it. The depth is about 1" deeper than stock. I'm using shallow speakers so it's working out ok that way. I'm not concerned as much about an angle, because the speakers have a rotating tweeter on it.
Then I'll reinforce it, smooth it with filler and wrap it in black vinyl to match my interior. It'll blend in pretty good and add more midrange/midbass up front without having to cut up my doors.
Then I'll reinforce it, smooth it with filler and wrap it in black vinyl to match my interior. It'll blend in pretty good and add more midrange/midbass up front without having to cut up my doors.
My solution might be a bit more stealthy, but the 4" drivers aren't quite enough. The stock pannels fit on top of the speakers.
11-02-2005, 04:59 PM
#8
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I think there is a market but you would need 2 sizes of boxes for the back. The small weefers and something medium to large for sub woofers
I don't mind losing some space in the back Its just space I never use. Don't want to lose all of it though.
Door speakers might be an option too.
I've noticed alot of people are putting smallish speakers in simply because of availabilty and available space for them. If there was a kit like your proposing though...
The kick panel hole for mine is too small to hold much of a speaker unless metal work is done. The magnet won't fit.
I kind of wonder if this area held 2-4" speakers if it would be better. I put 4" in the dash and they seem to work alright, power and size.
Not sure of depth for even a 4" though.
There is a very slight difference in the rear cargo areas. Mostly if you have a ragtop the box needs to allow space for it.
The 2 drains on the corners of the box has to be cut out for and the top of the box has to be curved. You can skip the curve and lose only a bit but if its spaced out from the drain tubes you lose like 2" or so.
I have 2-12" speakers and think it could be smaller. mine are dialed down so could be less.
A amp rack for under the passengers dash would be nice too. Install it and the amps location are done. I think this is a big hang up for alot of people where to put them.
I don't mind losing some space in the back Its just space I never use. Don't want to lose all of it though.
Door speakers might be an option too.
I've noticed alot of people are putting smallish speakers in simply because of availabilty and available space for them. If there was a kit like your proposing though...
The kick panel hole for mine is too small to hold much of a speaker unless metal work is done. The magnet won't fit.
I kind of wonder if this area held 2-4" speakers if it would be better. I put 4" in the dash and they seem to work alright, power and size.
Not sure of depth for even a 4" though.
There is a very slight difference in the rear cargo areas. Mostly if you have a ragtop the box needs to allow space for it.
The 2 drains on the corners of the box has to be cut out for and the top of the box has to be curved. You can skip the curve and lose only a bit but if its spaced out from the drain tubes you lose like 2" or so.
I have 2-12" speakers and think it could be smaller. mine are dialed down so could be less.
A amp rack for under the passengers dash would be nice too. Install it and the amps location are done. I think this is a big hang up for alot of people where to put them.
11-02-2005, 05:07 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jay M
I like that! Will it require you to cut the car at all? If not I think there would be a good market for that design. I think new kick pannels are pretty cheap, so you can offer a complete screw-in package that doesn't harm the car.
My solution might be a bit more stealthy, but the 4" drivers aren't quite enough. The stock pannels fit on top of the speakers.
My solution might be a bit more stealthy, but the 4" drivers aren't quite enough. The stock pannels fit on top of the speakers.
The ones I'm buidling center the kickpanel right over the stock cutout in the sheetmetal, so there is no cutting whatsover, it'll screw right in.
Yeah I need to check the price on new panels, I may incorproate that in my price or do a "exchange for your old kicks" core price.
I'm definetly going to cover them in white vinyl that way you can dye them any factory color with your own vinyl dye.
Lots of research to do before I start doing it.
11-03-2005, 03:38 AM
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2001
Location: The Only Corvette in Gila Bend, Az.
Posts: 16,483
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
St. Jude Donor '09
Will your rear box that your going to put in your 82 allow the T Tops to still fit?
Thats my biggest problem, and cruises we go on are at least 100 miles away, and thats a long way to go, and leave the tops at home.
Thats my biggest problem, and cruises we go on are at least 100 miles away, and thats a long way to go, and leave the tops at home.
11-03-2005, 06:50 AM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Desertdawg
Will your rear box that your going to put in your 82 allow the T Tops to still fit?
Thats my biggest problem, and cruises we go on are at least 100 miles away, and thats a long way to go, and leave the tops at home.
Thats my biggest problem, and cruises we go on are at least 100 miles away, and thats a long way to go, and leave the tops at home.
Thats one of the concerns I was looking at when thinking of how to build it. If I stop the enclosure right at the storage compartment doors that will leave enough room to be able to lay the t-tops in at an angle between the box and seats. So it would def work.
Another thing I was looking at was making a mini-enclosure that holds a 8" or maybe a 10" single subwoofer that will drop into the well on the passenger side of the storage compartment. The trim board that it's mounted to will be the exact shape of the factory storage door frame. Your basically eliminating the storage compartment door altogether and replacing it with a sub enclosure. It can be covered in factory matched carpet or vinyl to blend in. I think those would do good because I can build them and sell them for less than $100. You would have to mount the amp on the rear wall, but thats no big deal. But you wouldn't lose any space at all.
11-03-2005, 07:42 AM
#12
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Point Pleasant NJ
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 1982CorvetteDude
Thats one of the concerns I was looking at when thinking of how to build it. If I stop the enclosure right at the storage compartment doors that will leave enough room to be able to lay the t-tops in at an angle between the box and seats. So it would def work.
Another thing I was looking at was making a mini-enclosure that holds a 8" or maybe a 10" single subwoofer that will drop into the well on the passenger side of the storage compartment. The trim board that it's mounted to will be the exact shape of the factory storage door frame. Your basically eliminating the storage compartment door altogether and replacing it with a sub enclosure. It can be covered in factory matched carpet or vinyl to blend in. I think those would do good because I can build them and sell them for less than $100. You would have to mount the amp on the rear wall, but thats no big deal. But you wouldn't lose any space at all.
Another thing I was looking at was making a mini-enclosure that holds a 8" or maybe a 10" single subwoofer that will drop into the well on the passenger side of the storage compartment. The trim board that it's mounted to will be the exact shape of the factory storage door frame. Your basically eliminating the storage compartment door altogether and replacing it with a sub enclosure. It can be covered in factory matched carpet or vinyl to blend in. I think those would do good because I can build them and sell them for less than $100. You would have to mount the amp on the rear wall, but thats no big deal. But you wouldn't lose any space at all.
11-03-2005, 09:23 AM
#13
Intermediate
Member Since: Oct 2005
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would be interested! Can I see some pics or drawings of custom boxes for a 78 vette. Also kick panels. Id like to see what they look like in the car though so I have a idea. But otherwise I think its a great idea to go to ebay with your ideas.
11-03-2005, 10:39 AM
#14
Race Director
Some more ideas:
I don't see a need for more than a single 10". In retrospect I should probably have gone with an 8" and a smaller box to save space. The T-tops still fit with my setup and I think that should be a design criteria. I don't think you'll sell many if the T-tops don't fit.
Another issue is safety. The stereo rack should be anchored properly. Getting hit in the head with 200 lbs of stereo in an accident will hurt. I mounted a 1/8" steel plate with nuts welded to it behind the rear wall and bolted the stereo rack to the plate.
BTW, my setup is an Alpine in0-dash CD HU, Infinity 5 1/4" components in the kicks, tweeter in dash, rockford amp, 6.5" rear fill and JL 10" sub.
I don't see a need for more than a single 10". In retrospect I should probably have gone with an 8" and a smaller box to save space. The T-tops still fit with my setup and I think that should be a design criteria. I don't think you'll sell many if the T-tops don't fit.
Another issue is safety. The stereo rack should be anchored properly. Getting hit in the head with 200 lbs of stereo in an accident will hurt. I mounted a 1/8" steel plate with nuts welded to it behind the rear wall and bolted the stereo rack to the plate.
BTW, my setup is an Alpine in0-dash CD HU, Infinity 5 1/4" components in the kicks, tweeter in dash, rockford amp, 6.5" rear fill and JL 10" sub.
11-03-2005, 12:14 PM
#15
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2005
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you tought about using fiberglass for part of the rear box? It would end up thinner and form to the curves a bit. Although I'm not sure if all the curves are the same for the years you want to cover.
I just made a rear sub box mdf/fiberglass, it holds 2 10" subs and the amp mounts in the middle, or atleast it was suppose to.
I also made the same kick panels you are doing, except I directed mine on an angle and painted them the color of the car.
Right now the car thumps and I love it. I need some rear fill so I may add some tweeters in there to catch some highs. All my gear is Soundstream and I love it. You must leave space for the T-Tops in the design.
Also, you should be able to stop the box before the compartment if you go with a sub that requires 1/2 a cube.
I will post some pictures tonight.
Mike
I just made a rear sub box mdf/fiberglass, it holds 2 10" subs and the amp mounts in the middle, or atleast it was suppose to.
I also made the same kick panels you are doing, except I directed mine on an angle and painted them the color of the car.
Right now the car thumps and I love it. I need some rear fill so I may add some tweeters in there to catch some highs. All my gear is Soundstream and I love it. You must leave space for the T-Tops in the design.
Also, you should be able to stop the box before the compartment if you go with a sub that requires 1/2 a cube.
I will post some pictures tonight.
Mike
11-03-2005, 12:49 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
here's my setup.....
sub pods with amps
i can still store my ttops.... i might be changing the setup though....
b
sub pods with amps
i can still store my ttops.... i might be changing the setup though....
b
11-03-2005, 02:27 PM
#17
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Valencia (near LA) CA
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another issue is safety. The stereo rack should be anchored properly. Getting hit in the head with 200 lbs of stereo in an accident will hurt. I mounted a 1/8" steel plate with nuts welded to it behind the rear wall and bolted the stereo rack to the plate.
How did you attach the steel plate to the back wall? How do you access that area? did you have to remove the gas tank?
thanks,
~Jay
11-03-2005, 02:28 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
hey thanks for the ideas, I'm definetly going to make sure the t-top room is figured in.
The fiberglass would work, I'm mainly wanting to keep the cost down as much as possible. Just offering bare basic carpeted enclosures to do the job intended. I'm talking about sealed carpeted(trunk carpeted) 3/4" mdf enclosures that will drop right in place like it was made to go there.
If I start making them "fancy" that will drive costs up and I would be least likely to sell them then.
I'm going def do the "storage tray" 8" enclosure for sure. Thats a good way to get xtra bass w/o sacraficing room
The fiberglass would work, I'm mainly wanting to keep the cost down as much as possible. Just offering bare basic carpeted enclosures to do the job intended. I'm talking about sealed carpeted(trunk carpeted) 3/4" mdf enclosures that will drop right in place like it was made to go there.
If I start making them "fancy" that will drive costs up and I would be least likely to sell them then.
I'm going def do the "storage tray" 8" enclosure for sure. Thats a good way to get xtra bass w/o sacraficing room
11-03-2005, 02:43 PM
#19
Race Director
Originally Posted by Jay M
I agree that is important, I also confess that mine is NOT very well mounted!!
How did you attach the steel plate to the back wall? How do you access that area? did you have to remove the gas tank?
thanks,
~Jay
How did you attach the steel plate to the back wall? How do you access that area? did you have to remove the gas tank?
thanks,
~Jay
11-03-2005, 04:11 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
easy way...
i was gonna make a board that took the place of the compartment doors behind the seat and make a setup for a 10" or and 8" sub with a recessed amp area.... problem would be is that the amp would be limited to size...... it's an option and still stock looking if done right....
my sub pods are fiberglass in the upper corners and are thick.....
my amps are bolted through the bottom and tightened under the car....
the best way to go in a c3 , i would think, is to stay with 1 sub and maybe make an enclosure to tuck on one side of the wheel well.... my problem was making sure my tops fit in....... or, u could make a box that basically had a sub facing down but lift it from the floor...so u can still slide your tops underneath it...... like a sub box with a large square vent....sort of...... i found that the depth of subs and the magnet was an issue..... i was gonna do 2 jl 10w7 but couldn't fit them in the corners and still have clearance... i went to the jl10w6v2 since the magnet was a bit smaller
b
i was gonna make a board that took the place of the compartment doors behind the seat and make a setup for a 10" or and 8" sub with a recessed amp area.... problem would be is that the amp would be limited to size...... it's an option and still stock looking if done right....
my sub pods are fiberglass in the upper corners and are thick.....
my amps are bolted through the bottom and tightened under the car....
the best way to go in a c3 , i would think, is to stay with 1 sub and maybe make an enclosure to tuck on one side of the wheel well.... my problem was making sure my tops fit in....... or, u could make a box that basically had a sub facing down but lift it from the floor...so u can still slide your tops underneath it...... like a sub box with a large square vent....sort of...... i found that the depth of subs and the magnet was an issue..... i was gonna do 2 jl 10w7 but couldn't fit them in the corners and still have clearance... i went to the jl10w6v2 since the magnet was a bit smaller
b