Interior still hot!!!
07-31-2005, 09:48 PM
#61
Originally Posted by ESU
I doubt it's your heater core also, just add the ball valve on the upper hose to the core and keep it shut. You should notice a little diffrence.
I also just ordered the thermo tec self adhesive insulation from summit, I'll try it on my 79 where the earlier cars have that shielding and see if it helps. Hope it sticks to the underside of the car OK.
ESU in NY.
I also just ordered the thermo tec self adhesive insulation from summit, I'll try it on my 79 where the earlier cars have that shielding and see if it helps. Hope it sticks to the underside of the car OK.
ESU in NY.
Rich
07-31-2005, 10:55 PM
#62
Drifting
When should that plenum in the pass side kick panel be open or closed? Mine is open on max a/c, the vent under the hood by the wiper compartment closes on max a/c.
08-01-2005, 12:45 AM
#64
Originally Posted by flynhi
rihwoods,
i used a deglosser called PASO for final clean before applying the insulating reflective shield.
Worked great.
i used a deglosser called PASO for final clean before applying the insulating reflective shield.
Worked great.
Rich
08-01-2005, 01:08 AM
#65
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ESU
When should that plenum in the pass side kick panel be open or closed? Mine is open on max a/c, the vent under the hood by the wiper compartment closes on max a/c.
When you go to a/c max, it closes the outside "fresh air" door (located outside of the car, right side of airbox). Since the system is no longer able to pull air from the outside, it opens the inside kick panel flap to allow the inside air to be recirculated.
a/c max is the only time that those two flaps are in that configuration. All other climate settings use outside air. FYI - a/c max also closes the hot water valve.
08-04-2005, 08:41 AM
#66
Drifting
Just recieved two sheets (12"x24") of thermo tec self adhesive insulation from Summit yesterday. Suggestions on exactly where to install it? Was thinking the Pass side footwell for the first piece. How about the second? Further back towards the cat or under the pass seat maybe?
Will be cleaned good and will prep the plastic.
ESU
Will be cleaned good and will prep the plastic.
ESU
08-08-2005, 11:31 AM
#68
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: webster ny
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ball valve
Originally Posted by l979 Corvette
I have the same heat problem. I believe it's my heater core. The heater just doesn't turn off. Does any one think that replacing the heater core would fix the problem?
08-08-2005, 12:02 PM
#69
Drifting
I installed the thermotec sheets a few days ago. Took a lot and I mean alot of scrubbing to get those floorboards clean. Power washed, engine degreaser, gumout, brake cleaner, plastic prep spray, you name it. It stuck real well except in one spot where I couldnt scrub so well so I cut it short and will do that later when I can get to it. Did the pass side floor board starting right behind the heater core area and working down towards the rear end. Made sure I put some anywhere the exhaust ran close and also by the tranny. Next project will be to clean up the drivers side by the tranny and insulate that. When I wear shorts I can feel heat comin off the tranny hump console area.
. ESU
. ESU
08-08-2005, 01:09 PM
#70
Originally Posted by ESU
I installed the thermotec sheets a few days ago. Took a lot and I mean alot of scrubbing to get those floorboards clean. Power washed, engine degreaser, gumout, brake cleaner, plastic prep spray, you name it. It stuck real well except in one spot where I couldnt scrub so well so I cut it short and will do that later when I can get to it. Did the pass side floor board starting right behind the heater core area and working down towards the rear end. Made sure I put some anywhere the exhaust ran close and also by the tranny. Next project will be to clean up the drivers side by the tranny and insulate that. When I wear shorts I can feel heat comin off the tranny hump console area.
. ESU
. ESU
Rich
.
08-08-2005, 01:57 PM
#72
Only(1) is needed, and you can get it at any good hardware store. Get (2) 1/2" steel insert adapters and 2 new hose clamps and (1) 1/2" ball valve, remove the factory vacuum controlled heater shut off valve ( they all leak to some degree, even new ones) and insert the valve/fitting comination right where the factory valve was. No permanant mods. necessary, an dyou can put the factory valve right back in the winter if you need to. 
08-08-2005, 09:58 PM
#73
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
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I bought this heater control manual shut off valve at Autozone. I have not installed it yet, but I think it will look like it belongs. This is part number 84707, it cost $11.99 (last summer). I believe they have a couple sizes.
08-08-2005, 10:31 PM
#74
Originally Posted by WhichVette?
My 73 has those.
08-14-2005, 08:56 AM
#75
Yesterday installed "Reflectix", (double foil with two inner bubble layers) on pass side footwell....ambient temps outside were 85 F...(Drove Vette on Hwy for test)
Footwell carpet before Reflectix = 110 F
After installation = 95 F
The interesting thing were exhaust pipe temps near footwell = 462 F and exterior surface of footwell =165 F....(the pipe being 4" away)
Based on this result I will not attempt to install Thermotec on exterior footwells....instead,I'm going to make a sheetmetal heat shield for the exhaust pipe (24" long) leaving 1" space between pipe and shield...the shield will be between pipe and footwell...The Reflectix cost $20 for a 48"x 10 Ft roll....part no. BP48010...it is for interior only as it's temperature range is -60 F to +180 degrees F....
Footwell carpet before Reflectix = 110 F
After installation = 95 F
The interesting thing were exhaust pipe temps near footwell = 462 F and exterior surface of footwell =165 F....(the pipe being 4" away)
Based on this result I will not attempt to install Thermotec on exterior footwells....instead,I'm going to make a sheetmetal heat shield for the exhaust pipe (24" long) leaving 1" space between pipe and shield...the shield will be between pipe and footwell...The Reflectix cost $20 for a 48"x 10 Ft roll....part no. BP48010...it is for interior only as it's temperature range is -60 F to +180 degrees F....
Last edited by rihwoods; 08-14-2005 at 09:02 AM.
08-14-2005, 09:43 AM
#76
Originally Posted by rihwoods
The early C3's (73 ??) had a metal shield attached to the exterior footwells...I have some pics...but with todays materials/adhesives,you can easily do it that way with just insulation....I'm getting ready to do mine..
Pic of "early shield...
Pic of "early shield...
08-14-2005, 10:21 AM
#77
Originally Posted by carl a
my 73 has one of these heat shields on each side, i jet coated them!
08-15-2005, 03:17 PM
#79
Burning Brakes
An alternative method of shutting off the water to heater core
This thread has a bundh of good information so I figured I would post the information back to it rather than start yet another thread....
I just finished my interior rebuild which included gutting the interior and laying dound sound deadener (dynomat clone), a layer of reflectix and then the carpet set with jute backing. That significantly cut down the footwell temperature, but I was still getting no A/c benefit.
Long story short, I have a vacuum leak in th eline to the heater hose valve. When we applied vacumm to the valve (using a mityvac), the A/C went cold again.
I know many people are putting in ball valves to cut-off the flow, but this looks a bit odd to me under the hood so me and a buddy improvised a slightly different (yet still a bit bubba) solution.
We tee-d off one of the vacuum lines from the carb to the thermal flaps on the air cleaner housing. Now, when th eengine starts, full vacuum is applied to the valve and it shuts off the flow. The only downside is that when you floor it, the valve loses vacuum and the hot water starts flowing into the heater core.
It's still a bit bubba, but atleast it's stealthy bubba!
I'll fix the vacuum line, but atleast I can now drive with real A/C.
By the way, with the hot water shut-off, the A/C vents blow about 57 degree air into the cabin. I find myself flooring it every once in a while just to warm up.
I just finished my interior rebuild which included gutting the interior and laying dound sound deadener (dynomat clone), a layer of reflectix and then the carpet set with jute backing. That significantly cut down the footwell temperature, but I was still getting no A/c benefit.
Long story short, I have a vacuum leak in th eline to the heater hose valve. When we applied vacumm to the valve (using a mityvac), the A/C went cold again.
I know many people are putting in ball valves to cut-off the flow, but this looks a bit odd to me under the hood so me and a buddy improvised a slightly different (yet still a bit bubba) solution.
We tee-d off one of the vacuum lines from the carb to the thermal flaps on the air cleaner housing. Now, when th eengine starts, full vacuum is applied to the valve and it shuts off the flow. The only downside is that when you floor it, the valve loses vacuum and the hot water starts flowing into the heater core.
It's still a bit bubba, but atleast it's stealthy bubba!
I'll fix the vacuum line, but atleast I can now drive with real A/C.
By the way, with the hot water shut-off, the A/C vents blow about 57 degree air into the cabin. I find myself flooring it every once in a while just to warm up.
08-15-2005, 04:59 PM
#80
"It's still a bit bubba, but atleast it's stealthy bubba!"
Well,don't do this.....
Tried a short cut by tacking shield to pipe...now I have to remove it,and set it up like I first thought...isolated from the pipe with clamps and an true air gap...
On your vacuum line,my buddy put a loop in mine,effectively shuting off heater control valve,but I have no heater...don't need it.
Rich
Well,don't do this.....
Tried a short cut by tacking shield to pipe...now I have to remove it,and set it up like I first thought...isolated from the pipe with clamps and an true air gap...
On your vacuum line,my buddy put a loop in mine,effectively shuting off heater control valve,but I have no heater...don't need it.
Rich