Brettmc

Is it possible to polish cast aluminum, like a carb baseplate? What would you use to do it? I've got a drill, a dremel, some elbow grease and a little patience. What more do I need?

Brett

ltlevil

Start out with what ever grit makes it shiny first, then work your way down to a finer grit (whether paper or compound). A lot of patience, time and elbow grease is needed for this. I'm sure you know this but it's worth repeating.

gedge456

If you just want a shine, there is a compound called semichrome that will make it bright. But a smooth finish will require some work with wet or dry paper, start with about 280 grit, then 400, 600 and then polish with semichrome. Your dremel came with a soft brush that works well for application then buff wit felt wheel. Run it slow when putting on paste, higher speed to buff off. Most motorcycle dealers carry semichrome.

Big Fish

If the piece is off the car, you could buff it with a bench grinder fitted with a buffing wheel. Use white rouge buffing compound.

Brettmc

I'll get a soft and buffing wheel for the dremel and some buffing compound. Use the soft wheel, then the buffing wheel. I use the buffing compound with the buffing wheel, right? Do I use anything with the soft wheel?

onaqwst

once it's polished, would you clear it or wax it or just leave it... i polished my gas lid...came out nice

b

panchop

i've done a bit of polishing and would never do it again. it is a filthy job, you are going to be filthy, your garage is going to be filthy, etc..Still if you want to do it just get one of the kits available.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/alpolkit.htm.

it isn't rocket science for most parts. you will get the "feel" for it pretty quick. have fun

rcread

Eastwood has a lot of polishing equipment and supplies too. I agree with those who say it's hard work. I'd pay my son to do it.

Brettmc

I'm going to attempt to polish a carb baseplate, it shouldn't be too bad. At lunch, I got a dremel polishing kit, a couple of extra wire brushes and some white rouge. If it doesn't work out, I can always go to plan b and paint it.

Techno

I found sanding to 400 is enough then at least 2 buffing wheels with 2 compounds. Any place you get the supplies tells you the compounds needed.

I use a spiral sewn sisal wheel first then the loose buff. A real buffing wheel is best but you can even do this by hand with grades of sandpaper into compounding polishes but that is very extreme.

Sanding isn't needed at all unless there are large defects. The big advantage of sanding is it makes the surface flat like a mirror. Without, it has an orange peel reflectivity, a bit distorted.

Also grizzley or harbor freight are much better for supplies like this rather than eastwood. $$$

Cast aluminum no problem for polishing but is supposed not take anodizing well.

Heres a part I cast&polished - quickly painted with Kandy to see it.
CC lasts longest

AS mentioned its dirty. I where goggles, face shield and a rag on my head along with a tyvek lab coat. Gloves are good for the heat generated. Waxy grease on your skin and the cottony fibers in your hair.

Moving parts can get dirty and projecting parts snatched.

Fastest and least painfull-
Lastly a near polished surface can be had from whats called abrasive coated bristle pg 2512 http://www.mcmaster.com/ . for die grinders. Its good for paint and gasket removal too. Produces a very shiny surface and buffing can be done from that if more is wanted.

Brown78

Fliz is really good on alum. But,alum doesn't stay shinny unless you spray a clear coat over it. Got tired of polishing my wheels so I had them chromed. It might be cheeper in the long run to have those peaces chromed. No more polishing just wiping with a rag.

ZD75blue

If your really grinding hard and heavy on the material... wear a mask. You'll taste whatever you've been grinding for days if you dont...