Ok, stupid question
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ok, stupid question
I just sold my 2000 coupe and am investigating how much $$$ it will take to restore my dad's 67 convertible. It has a 4 speed, and I was just reading a thread about "blown engines". Since I have almost NO manual transmission driving experience, I'm assuming that you can over-rev an older engine like that and it will severely damage the internals. Am I right? Something like bending a valve stem or hurting the crack shaft or something.
Sorry for the dumb question.
Sorry for the dumb question.
#2
Yes, yes, yes, the car is worth restoring. There is no rev limiter on the car, so you have to be mindful of your RPMs. Remember the car is almost 40 years old and technology to match. This is a classic and should be driven with respect. You can easily by a crate motor from GM Performance Parts. Good luck!
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by xlhotwheel
Yes, yes, yes, the car is worth restoring. There is no rev limiter on the car, so you have to be mindful of your RPMs. Remember the car is almost 40 years old and technology to match. This is a classic and should be driven with respect. You can easily by a crate motor from GM Performance Parts. Good luck!
#4
Drifting
Unless you're an inexperienced road racer, I think that it would be extremely unlikely that you will blow the engine. Those engines were tough and will easily take the normal abuse of everyday driving. After an hour or so of practice you'll be driving like a pro and having a blast doing it!! Have fun!
#6
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Assuming it's hydraulic lifter engine, the lifters act as a rev limiter because they will pump up and not open the valves if the engine is overreved, which will keep revs below a critical level that will overstress the bottom end. Mechanical lifter engines are not as forgiving!
Blown engines are usually due to driver mistakes such as poor shifting technique or letting the engine run low on oil.
These engines are very stout, and if you are careful and considerate about maintenance and don't overextend your own driving skills you need not worry about "blowing the engine", but if you do, the first suspect is yourself.
Duke
Blown engines are usually due to driver mistakes such as poor shifting technique or letting the engine run low on oil.
These engines are very stout, and if you are careful and considerate about maintenance and don't overextend your own driving skills you need not worry about "blowing the engine", but if you do, the first suspect is yourself.
Duke
#8
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SWCDuke
Assuming it's hydraulic lifter engine, the lifters act as a rev limiter because they will pump up and not open the valves if the engine is overreved, which will keep revs below a critical level that will overstress the bottom end. Mechanical lifter engines are not as forgiving!
Blown engines are usually due to driver mistakes such as poor shifting technique or letting the engine run low on oil.
These engines are very stout, and if you are careful and considerate about maintenance and don't overextend your own driving skills you need not worry about "blowing the engine", but if you do, the first suspect is yourself.
Duke
Blown engines are usually due to driver mistakes such as poor shifting technique or letting the engine run low on oil.
These engines are very stout, and if you are careful and considerate about maintenance and don't overextend your own driving skills you need not worry about "blowing the engine", but if you do, the first suspect is yourself.
Duke
#9
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L-79 has hydraulic lifters and actually has a better bottom end (connnecting rods) than the last mechanical lifter SBs in 1965.
The redline on the tach should be 6000 and the lifters will probably pump up before you hit 6500, which is the redline of the prior mechanical lifter engines.
Duke
The redline on the tach should be 6000 and the lifters will probably pump up before you hit 6500, which is the redline of the prior mechanical lifter engines.
Duke
#10
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Actually, "pumped up" lifters don't prevent the valves from opening. It's quite the opposite--they hold them open and prevent them from closing. Weak springs will also keep them from closing at high rpms (floating). Regardless, it'll keep the revs from climbing.
Crane makes a good electronic ignition conversion with an adjustable rev-limiter too.
Crane makes a good electronic ignition conversion with an adjustable rev-limiter too.
#11
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
L-79 has hydraulic lifters and actually has a better bottom end (connnecting rods) than the last mechanical lifter SBs in 1965.
The redline on the tach should be 6000 and the lifters will probably pump up before you hit 6500, which is the redline of the prior mechanical lifter engines.
Duke
The redline on the tach should be 6000 and the lifters will probably pump up before you hit 6500, which is the redline of the prior mechanical lifter engines.
Duke
Gary
#12
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Absolutely positive! The last C2s SBs with mechanical lifter cams were the '65 L76/84. After that all SBs had hydraulic lifters except for the '70-'72 LT-1 option, which were the last mechanical lifter SBs ever offered as a RPO.
Duke
Duke