spaceboyusa

First post to the forum and look forward to many more to come...

I'm currently a C4 guy about to go "back in time" and become a C2 guy. I've done some homework and know my price range ($30-40K), know what purpose I'm going to use it for (very nice driver/plan on enjoying it a bit), and know that this car is not leaving my family for a really really long time (no intention to turn/churn the car).

Simply put, I've decided to focus on getting a '65 or '66 convertible, (although I'm not necessarily ruling out a '67 but for my $$ range I"m not sure I'd get the same "distance with my $$" if you know what I mean). I've weighed things like numbers matching vs. not, SB/BB, and understand at the end of the day the choice is mine.

Here's my ask: I throw myself to the mercy of this group to get honest, personal, non-flame type discussions around which year of the two ('65 or '66) do people think I should focus on and specifically, what they'd make sure to try to get for the $$ I'm talking about. I know a decision like this is not a simple one, but having some facts/thoughts from the experts and existing owners on this thread sure would be helpful.

Adding to this, I'd also love to hear how the auction side of Bloomington went this year in terms of any surprises/change in trends. I was in-process of moving to Denver from Chicago and was unable to attend. If anyone can provide any insight into how any '65/'66's went at auction in terms of price/value and compared to years past, that'd be great.

Thanks much in advance for any thoughts/help/direction you can provide.


[Modified by spaceboyusa, 12:01 AM 6/30/2004]

VetteLT4

im a little new to the c2 world myself, coming off the c4 world. i purchased a 66 vert last august. I got mine for 28k, right at the low end of your budget. its a non numbers small block. based on the car, i think the price was ok, maybe a little high, but ok. the car is pretty solid, good body. engine needed some work, but ran fine (better now). the underside ive been told is ok, a little surface rust in some places, but nothing to be alarmed about. the interior was also probably a 6 out of 10. presentable and good enough for a driver, but would need hundreds if not thousands to get to show quality. if you were willing to dig as deep as 40 im sure you could get yourself a real nice small block car. as an owner of other big block cars, i thought the small block was better suited for my desires with this car. i wanted a driver that wasnt a handful. you can take a look at some pics of my car at http://www.69chargerrt.com/corvette to get an idea of what 30k will get you now days.

Vetterodder

You don't seem to have a personal preference for either year so I don't think you should focus on just one. Unlike late model cars, the condition, equipment, and asking prices of mid-years can vary a bunch. Also unlike late model cars, there aren't zillions of them out there to chose from. IMO, getting a nice car (as opposed to a "less nice") is more important that getting a particular year. Shopping both years will double your chances of finding the "right" car for you. Get familiar with the options between the two years in case one has something that's important to you that wasn't available both years (solid lifter SB's for example).

Grey Ghost

They made more 66's, most often, the price is a little lower than compared to a 65.

LouieM

In the past I've had several of each year, currently have a 67 ragtop. As far as how they drive, there is not the tiniest difference between 65 and 66 (or 67). And the looks are 99% identical, with basically the same engine options. So, as someone just pointed out above, buy the nicest you find. You will find some nice cars in your price range. All the midyears I've owned have been SBs. Only one was a PowerGlide car -- for me the 4-speed is the only way to go.

It would be worth going to Corvettes at Carlisle in late August, since you will see many midyears for sale, and there will be Forum members there to help evaluate any car you are interested in.

Good hunting!

TOM65 L76 96 LT1

Just want to verify what others have told you,very little difference in 65-66 and buy the best car you can find for your $$$$$. I have a 65 roadster that i have restored to what i consider a #2 driver quality car, Glengreen,Black interior,new Saddle top,365HP NOM out of 65 vin #9917,my car is vin #15703,4sp,original teak wheel,optional hardtop,i am thinking of selling it as i very seldom every drive it,in fact it has not been out of the garage at all this year,the rebuilt engine has only about 200-300 miles on it,if i do put a for sale sign on it my asking price will be 29K to 30K. If you would like to see some pictures and maybe use them to judge and compare cars that you look at just send me your e-mail address and i will be more then happy to send them to you. This car spent time in Denver around 1980-82 and the owner still lives in the Denver area. Tom at Pologreen96vette@aol.com

panchop

i did the same search recently that you are doing now with the same budget. i decided that for me 65, 66 where the years i wanted. disc brakes being the deciding factor. i skipped 67 because of the premium they seem to get and because in my state a car 1967 or newer needs to be emission tested. dosen't seem to be alot of difference between them just get the one with the options you want at the price you can stand. only other thing i would mention is color, didn't seem that important to me at the time because i didn't relize the price to paint them. now color would factor more iny decision.

Nicky71

Buy condition. Color, year, and options are of secondary importance to condition if you want to have a decent driver.

Welcome to the Chicago area. If you need someone to go with on your Corvette hunting trips don't hesitate to drop me a line...I really enjoy helping others spend their money

jprop

In addition to the above suggestions, I would look for one with power steering. Unlike the C4, power steering was an option and not all cars had it. The manual steering on these old cars is a real bear and can certainly take some of the enjoyment out of every day driving. Power brakes are not as important. I agree with the others. They are virtually the same car and I would buy the best car within my budget regardless of year.

spaceboyusa

All,

Thanks much for all the replies. I agree that I should not "limit" myself to one year versus the other per se; instead, look for the best car that I can get and take it from there. Hear you loud and clear!

One quick question, and this might be discussed/answered on another thread, so simply point me there if someone knows it. In terms of most desirable options for '65/'66, which are the ones I should be looking for, and in what order would you rank them? So far, sounds like color (from a cost to fix perspective), power steering and I'm assuming a/c would make the short list. In addition, I'm definitely thinking I'm an SB kind of guy, so let's keep BB off the list just because I know it tends to add value in today's market (i.e. kind of a given).

Finally, Nicky71, thanks for the offer, and would do it for sure, but I left Chicago and am now in Denver. If someone on the thread has a Denver-based resource that a C2 wannabe like me can talk to/meet for a drink and learn more about the local scene, I'm all ears. Also, if someone knows a local 'Vette place that does good things both on the sales and service side, I'm ready to be a good customer! Feel free to email me any contact info instead of posting here if the whole privacy thing makes more sense.

Again...thanks much...you guys rock...and look forward to becoming more of a contributor to the Forum!!

Plasticman

About the only real significant mechanical diff. between the 65/66, and the 67, is the addition of a dual master brake cylinder in 67 (65/66 had single masters). If that is a safety factor that is important for you. But 65/66's can be changed over to the dual master system (with a "little" cost and time).

I would recommend a small block (more popular in numbers made, easier to maintain, less costly in comparable cars, and to me - a more "balanced" vehicle). If sheer power is high on your want list, then go for the big block.

As for power steering, my current C1 does not have it (they never came with it) and agree that at very low speeds and parking, it would be nice to have PS. Otherwise I don't miss it, and it is not worth it to me to install it. Note that PS (IMHO) on the C2/C3 Vettes was not very good to begin with. It was based upon the old Bendix type system which "required" some slop in the system before it would function (always less preciseness than the manual steering system) , and was known as a leaker when a little tired. Your choice.

Plasticman

Ron Miller

I have both a '65 and a '66 currently, not much difference in the two as has been stated above. Color & engine are the most important considerations in my opinion. Power steering is nice, and is an easy bolt on add to a small block. Can be just as easily removed, also. After market air is also fairly easy to install, and looks similar to original air. Any Vette person (familiar with the C2's) will know it's not original, but it doesn't bother lots of owners as long as they're staying cool!

Color (both interior and exterior) & engine are the more expensive and difficult items to change. Lastly, as has also been saiid, buy the best you can afford, although I wouldn't necessarily buy matching engine numbers for a daily driver. Just my opinion.

JSB69

Are you not considering '63's and 64's due to the disc brake myth? On a one time emergency stop basis, the disc brake cars are no better and as a practical matter, the tires are far more important. If you search around this board a bit, you'll find the drum brakes are far less troublesome and quieter. The best advice you've been given is to buy the best car your budget allows. In the current market, I'd say you best chance at doing this would be a '64, followed by 63's and 66's.

jprop

I wouldn't worry about a/c in Denver. A factory a/c car will cost you more and provide little benefit. In the summer you'll have the top down more often than not. With patience, I think you can find a nice 65-66 in your price range. Also, midyears are a numbers game. A numbers matching car will always bring more money (and cost more money!) than a non-matching car in the same condition. So, for future investment purposes, I would try to find a matching numbers car. Good luck!

Kid_Again

...if all you want is a driver, why not consider the '64?...it's considered the runt of the litter because of drum brakes only and no big block, but it's a fine looking car (no gills, i agree so maybe that's important to you) and can be reasonably priced...i've seen a few prettied-up '64s with pipes and a teak wheel - except for a few purists, who cares???

...this from a guy who has a '65 trimmed out as a '67 big block

...and don't let the thought of drum brakes scare you off, when installed and adjusted correctly, drum brakes are fine.....good luck

ctjackster

it pains me to agree with my firend the Kid, but I agree that your 65-66 model range could and should be expanded to 64 if you are going for the better value - I too was doing the same thing as you a while back, and although I ended up with a 65, it was really driven by finding the right car (color, options I had to have, condition) that happended to be a 65 - I had narrowed it down to three front runners, a 64 and two different 65s. The disc brakes ARE nice, nice to know I have them, but I do not feel as though I have some huge braking advantage with them.

As for what options you should place on you "goota have it" list, that is purely a matter of personal preference - whatever gives you a woody, causes you to "take one last look at your car" as it sits in your garage late at night, etc. For me, and only for me, my had to haves were: vert, 4 sp, a SB somewhere above base - my wanted to haves included side pipes and KOs, but I could just have easily added those later to the right car.

VetteLT4

sidepipes! i wouldnt accept a vert without sidepipes. they are such a neat addition, and sound awesome, even on my wimpy little smallblock.

6T5RUSH

spaceboyusa,

All good advice. Get the most midyear for the least money. That "most" is your personal preference as pointed out by Ctjackster and others. As KidAgain also pointed out (and others) don't limit yourself to not looking at the 64's. Since #s don't matter, you really open up the "playing field" or "cafeteria selection" by including the 64's. I've seen some pretty nice '64's with side pipes and teak wheel that just look dandy!

Good Luck!

Jim

savewave

When I was shopping for a midyear vert, I looked at more '64s than anything else. It just seemed as if there were more of them available in my price range. I was looking for a driver, so didn't care if the numbers matched.

I wanted a solid frame, good mechanicals, decent paint, chrome, glass and interior. I started off looking in the $20k to $25K range. I saw a lot of "dogs."

I ended up bumping my price to the range you are in now and just kept looking to find the best and most complete car I could find. I enlisted the help of somebody who knew a lot more about mid-years than me to keep me from making an emotional decision.

I ended up with a '65 BB clone and have been very pleased with it. Just be patient.

1KULC7

I guess I am on the lower end of the feeding chain. My dream car has and is the 1963 Coupe. Considering the fact you want a vert, driver in great shape, I have to agree with come of my fellow midies... I would not discount the 64 or even 63 Vert. I know several people who own these years with crate or upgrade NOM engines and just love them. Of course I am partial to the 63, but I like the grill and cookie sheets of the 63, making it much more recognizable at a glance then the 65-67's.

I guess in a nutshell all the mid-years have their own unique properties and regardless of what mid year you choose, you will have one of the most desirable and wanted Corvettes ever built.

I would recommend finding a person for your local NCRS chapter to help you find what you look for. I am a member and receive their quarterly "Drivetrain" newsbook. They have some really nice cars for sale and many are members cars for reasonable prices. In addition, somebody mentioned before go to Carlisle not only do they have an auction, but a large Car Coral, and again I recommend taking somebody along who knows these cars. Good luck and we are certainly glad to see you come over to the C2 side of life.