Allcoupedup

Beat it with a rubber mallet and it doesn't seem to me moving any farther up the snout. The distance from the face of the balancer to the snout is a smidge under 1.1".

Does this seem right?

Brian

gary6696

Do the pulleys line up?
If not, I would rent a puller AND and installer, take it off, take some measurements (you being a smart guy can figure out which ones) :D , clean both the snout and hole with emery cloth, coat both pieces with a light penetrating oil, and install it again, with the installer of course.

Ben64FI

I used to drive them on with a two pound hammer years ago in the machine shop. When the "seat" the have a distinct "Ring" when hit with the hammer.
If sucking them down with an impact wrench, the will stop moving and the bolt will be VERY tight. You will know it!

ghostrider20

Hey Brian,

I use a ballancer install tool. It is a threaded rod with a washer and a timken type bearing. thread the rod in the crank and use an impact wrench to drive it on. If you clean the crank and the ballancer, use some oil, it will drive right on and stop when it is seated. With the plugs out, the engine will turn over before you snap the bolt. If the engine turns over while installing the ballancer, one of those Bob-Villas strap wrenches around the ballancer will hold it.

PS - Check the ballancer for groves where the timing cover/crank seal interface on the ballancer hub. This area should not be noticably worn, but it should be a tad more polished then the rest of the hub. When this seats in the seal, you are close to having the ballancer all the way on.

Mark

Plasticman

Brian,

If your crank has the threaded hole for the retaining bolt, then you need a threaded rod (or a long threaded bolt) screwed into the hole and then you tighten a nut down to draw the balancer on. I have one if you need to borrow it. Do not try to use the retaining bolt, since just a few threads of engagement will strip the crank threads.

If you have an early crank without the threaded hole, then hammering the balancer on is the way it is done. But, use a good solid block of wood (hardwood is best) between the balancer and the hammer (and I agree you will need a 2 pounder - not a mallet to do the job).

Note a couple of other items however:

1. If the balancer is grooved (where the timing cover seal has rubbed all these years), there is an insert that can be purchased that goes over the balancer seal surface to restore a "brand new seal surface". They work and do a fine job. But they need care in installation (they are thin metal and need to be installed straight).

2. I always apply a small amount of RTV (or Aviation Gasket Cement as an alternative) to the woodruf key groove and all around the inside circumference. This prevents oil from wicking out the groove and showing up as a very small leak. It also helps retain the balancer a small amount, but does not make it all that difficult to remove - when that time comes. I would not use oil to lubricate the surfaces in an attempt to cause easier seating of the balancer. The RTV will provide any lubrication for installation, but not cause a leak. I know this is not "by the book", but it does work.

Hope this helps,
plasticman

Allcoupedup

Thanks for the information. Autozone was out of the install tool and I'm impatient so out came the mallet! I'll get it from Autizone when its in and make sure it is seated completely. The crank was recently drilled and tapped by the shop.

As for the sleeve, I already installed one - there was a small groove on the contact surface on an otherwise great looking 8" balancer. I think it was $4.
.


Thanks for the information.
Brian