65stinger

Hey guys, I'm getting close to finishing this frame restoration. I finally recieved my trailing arms back from East Tenn Vettes(they look great). My question is, I'm sure I'll get them in, but does anyone have a good sequence of installing these things to make the job as easy as possible. I have everything ready. I just know as many people on here as there are, I'm sure there are some tricks of the trade that can be shared. Thanks

Viet Nam Vett

Here's a link to an old Fourm Post from the Archives. Also ..you can go in to the archives and serch under different words that might yeild so more post's on this topic. Just look to the left of the screen an click on search.

And...Welcome to the Corvette Forum.
:cheers:


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=773026

kyosho

:iagree:

I just did mine.

The steps are basically:
-put arm in pocket with bolt
-put shims in to get 0 toe in (can be checked using a long straight edge across rotor, parallel to frame rails going forward.) alignment shop will get it accurate.
-connect half shafts
-connect strut rods, adjust for 0 camber at RIDE height. this can be easily by putting a half inch socket between trailing arm and trailing arm pocket (hlaf shafts are almost horizontal)
-connect brake lines
-connect shock
-connect spring last

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=751711

norvalwilhelm

Getting the bolt in can be a problem if you haven't done them before. I put the trailing arm in the pocket and support the other end so you don't have to hold it.
I use a long nose set of pliers to hold the bolt, grease it well of coarse and feed it through from the back with the long nosed pliers. Once started work it all the way through, install the washer and the nut loosely.
Pack a few shims in the back then pack the front full saving the largest till last.
I do my own alignments but just get close, tighten the nut and take it to the alignment shop. Since the bolt and shims are new it only takes a little time for the alignment guy to fix the toe problem. The camber should be free and easy for him to loosen the nut , adjust and retighten,
I would go with stainless shims, slotted of coarse and lots of grease.
good luck it is not that hard. :thumbs:

65stinger

I've been having a real problem understanding this toe-in issue on these rear trailing arms. In order to get an acurate reading, shouldn't there be a pivot point from the back of the trailing arm....such as the half shaft and then measure the toe-in relative to the pivot point(meaning the half-shaft) and frame going forward. My thought was to install the front bolt loosely, then connect the half shaft, and at ride height place shims inner or outer accordingly to acquire the proper toe-in. This is my first install of these things, so please bare with my stupidity.......

norvalwilhelm

My thought was to install the front bolt loosely, then connect the half shaft, and at ride height place shims inner or outer accordingly to acquire the proper toe-in.

That's exactly it. The rear of the trailing arm is fixed by the strut rod and the 1/2 shafts so the front of the trailing arm must pivot in or out to correct toe.
Install the arm with the through bolt, install the 1/2 shaft , without a spring but with rotors on and tightened try getting the rotor with the help of something long or a laser level pointing as straight forward as you can, Stuff shims in the back then fill up the front, check, remove replace shims until you think it is pointing straight ahead.
You pack one side with the correct number of shims then pack the other side.
You are having it aligned anyway so just do your best and take it to the shop.

kyosho

The shims are what hold the toe-in or toe-out of the trailing arm.

The half shafts have nothing to do with it, and not loosened or removed at the alignment shop to set the toe in.

65stinger

I understand to an extent, but it seems that if you install the shims before connecting the half shafts, once you get your alignment set, you attach the half shafts.......in this order it seems one could possibly pull the arms out of alignment once you tighen the half shaft bolts up to the trailing arm. That connection is a fixed dimension.

JohnZ

You're correct - you can't set the toe-in accurately (final alignment) until the half-shafts, strut rods, and spring is connected and the full weight of the car is on wheels, as it will be when you drive it on the alignment rack. Anything you do prior to that is strictly a "rough setting" to get you to the alignment shop without "crabbing" as you go down the road. :thumbs:

mjmsc5

Hey stinger, I live in Decatur and would be glad to help you. I just did mine last year.

65stinger

Thanks for the offer "mjm", but I've taken care of it. I basically just pulled a string down the entire side frame rail and used that as my guide. At ride height and everything adjusted, both faces of rotors are approx. .25" inside of the frame rails. Thats with the majority of the shims on the inside.........That'll at least get to the alignment shop. I've completed everything on the frame except for the brake lines and waiting on some parts to install my drive shaft..........I'm getting to ready to start the engine compartment on the car.