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Whatever technique you use make sure the road is straight and the car is straight. Putting the power down and the car is not straight will put you in the weeds faster than you can think about it.
Throw some Clorox in front of your rear tires...ON the pavement and spin them.
The i/4 mile tracks use a water box. You can go on Gruge Night for twenty bucks.
Good luck and dont break anything when you hook up.
What is that Clorox going to do to the paint on the bottom of the rear body behind the wheel wells when it sprays up there as the tires are spinning?
Our local tracks don't use clorox that I know of. Costs money ! They just use water from a garden hose. I roll into the water box , spin the tires over once or so to get them wet ,pull out a few feet, 2nd gr , 2500 rpm or so and let it rip. Wait till I see smoke in my mirror, release the brakes then let the car with the tires still spinning till they screech roll forward . And you are ready to make your run with clean, dry ,hot tires. In other words the best way to do a safe burnout is with water. Dry burnouts on the street from a stop really shocks the driveline. A slight roll is way better , but not as safe. Be careful out there !
Maybe not a popular response for some but I have beat on my car for the last 50,000 miles (Dislcaimer it is not a matching numbers drivetrain). I've done clutch dumps and often get 2nd and 3rd gear rubber. I ran it at the strip a few times. I do it because it makes me happy. Isn't this how most of us drove muscle cars way back then! I will say the only thing I had to do is replace the half shaft joints 2 times in the last 40,000 miles. They didn't fail but the trunions started showing wear upon disassembly.. I use non-greaseable joints. I have a Centerforce clutch and just had it out and it still looks and works great at 40,000 miles. I will say I'm turning 65 this year and I have slowed down considerably but still go through the gears often.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I went through more than one set of G70's on my '67 "back then" although most competition was done from a slow roll, not a dead stop.
I do recall one 2AM when I went by the house of a girl I was dating who supposedly was going to her girlfriend's or something that evening. A '65 GTO was just pulling into her driveway. No water box, Clorox or anything. I stopped, put the tach to 3,500 and launched it. There were no long kisses, I heard her father met her at the door demanding to know whose car had done that. That was 4th of July weekend IIRC. You could see the rubber marks in the road until the first snow in the fall.
And yes, from this age it seems like an immature thing to do. At age 19, it was awesome.
A friend in High School had a '69 Dodge Charger...he pulled the drum brake shoes and springs off the rear axle and had instant line locks.
He went though 3 sets of rear tires in a season... He waited too long on his last set and one tire disintegrated during a burnout. The flapping tire carcass did a great job of flushing the bondo out of his rear quarter panel
What is that Clorox going to do to the paint on the bottom of the rear body behind the wheel wells when it sprays up there as the tires are spinning?
Mud and gravel do enough damage as it is!
Your not putting much Clorox down .all you need is a splash not a gal.
Just to keep things straight . I think burn outs are stupid . The only time I heat the
tires is at the track and I dont go hog wild. Just to heat the tires not for show boating.
Whatever technique you use make sure the road is straight and the car is straight. Putting the power down and the car is not straight will put you in the weeds faster than you can think about it.
Tom
I was on a track with my C5 . I had come around a corner and was stareing at a 1/2 mile straight section.
I put my foot in it with the wheels not straight and I jumped sideways a whole car width. I cussed myself
for forgetting to keep my wheels straight and roll the throttle instead of stomping on the peddle.
Sky has good advice.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
You know, it just dawned on me that with the changing times, there are two meanings of the term "burn-out".
To me, and many others with gray hair, it meant coming off the line spinning the tires, or at the dragstrip doing some warm-up spins.
But it finally registered that today's kids (and not-so-young kids) consider a burn-out to be just standing as close to still as possible, and just spinning the tires endlessly to make great amounts of smoke and noise.
The first meaning - been there, done that.
The more modern version has no attraction to me at all, I'm too old to get the point. Have fun, go for it, I'll find something else to do.
I got into a brief debate with a buddy last night about hiw to do a burn-out while doing the least harm to your C2 Corvette.
We know that the IRS (not those guys, I mean Independent Rear Suspension!) on C2’s provides grater traction to the ground, so some extra effort can be needed to get the tires spinning off the line, esp on a small-block car.
Obviously, doing a clutch dump after revving the motor to 5,000rpm isn’t going to promote driveline longevity.
What can get damaged from doing a burn-out, and how can this be mitigated?
What technique is called for if the car is an automatic? Is there less chance of damaging things due to the cushioning effect of the auto trans?
Eager to get out there to practice your recommended technique - spring is in the air!
I think that doing a clutch dump (or a shift from Neutral to Drive with an automatic) at high rpm creates a shock load that exceeds what the stock C2 drivetrain can reliably survive. However, if your engine has enough torque to spin the tires after the clutch is engaged, that's probably within the limits of what the C2 drivetrain can handle. So, a rolling start where you mash the throttle AFTER the clutch is engaged is probably okay.
I think the weakest link in the stock C2 drivetrain is the U-joints that have grease fittings. Upgrading to heavy duty Spicer U-joints would provide some additional margin for avoiding drivetrain damage.
However, if your engine has enough torque to spin the tires after the clutch is engaged, that's probably within the limits of what the C2 drivetrain can handle. So, a rolling start where you mash the throttle AFTER the clutch is engaged is probably okay.
I wish that were true. My 65 has plenty of torque but if I jump on it from a roll I get pretty substantial wheel hop. Not sure why but it's kind of a buzzkill.
Ideas anyone?
Call me bad names, I don’t care but I’ve never done a burnout in my C2 or my C6. Nope, never. No short term thrill of entertainment is worth tearing up decent cars. YMMV. FWIW, my L76 ‘65 with 4.11 rear gears has the torn up tub from a half shaft letting go before I bought it.
"Safe"? When I was a kid that meant not getting caught by the cops. I was always safe.
Anybody can crash any car, from a Smart For Two to a McLaren P1 and beyond. Obviously nobody here is advocating running over dogs while out of control, or killing grandmas or children or hitting houses and orphanages and running over the blind etc etc etc pick your finger wagging scenario.
Here's the best way to do a burnout: Start the car and go to your desired "crime" scene. Do a risk/reward analysis: either learn to not break stuff on the car while doing it, don't risk breaking stuff, or else be able to afford to break stuff on the car. But also remember that cameras are everywhere and your car sticks out like a greased stripper pole in church. Now choose, and accept whatever comes from it.
03-27-2024, 01:34 PM
That was 4th of July weekend IIRC. You could see the rubber marks in the road until the first snow in the fall.
