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Please don't cut the brace! While installing the "box" is probably the most difficult part of the entire install, it becomes easier if you do it in 2 pieces! Unbolt the blower motor from the box . . . it's held on by 3 screws on the firewall side and 3 screws on the passenger side. Install the 3 screws on the firewall side so that when you re-install the blower motor you can catch the back side on those screws - you'll have room to get a screwdriver in later to tighten at least 2 of them as I recall. Lots of threads on this topic! Here's one . . .
OldVetteGuy84,
Do you mean the front bar of the bird cage that supports the dash stuff? With an appreciation and understanding of Tom A.'s sentiment, I thought of cutting that bar and welding tabs on it (on the back side toward the fire wall) with some button head bolts (2 on each side) to allow me to put in and pull that Vintage Air main evaporator unit. I didn't do it, but it seemed like an idea. Especially since my car is way modified beyond stock. Anyway, I got it all in without doing that (like everybody else does). However, I now have a leak in the AC system, and I think (haven't verify yet) but suspect its from behind that unit. If I had cut that and put in my removable bar idea, with tabs, my investigation (of where the leak is) would go easier (if it's behind the unit). Anyway, too me cutting that to make it more accessible makes sense (in essence making it a removable/accessible area), but if one's thinking of keeping the car original (other than the AC) then, its obvious its not a good idea.
(obviously I am in the very obscure minority on this)
Last edited by vjjack04; 02-14-2024 at 07:21 PM.
Reason: clarity
Yes, it was a pain to get in, but I followed Tom's advice and installed in two pieces. You can get it in there, just takes time and patience.
Interesting idea to cut the cross bar. Lots of people on here are all for cutting the frame crossmember for an easier trans install or clutch replacement. Bet we won't get many advocating for cutting the birdcage. Even though I've modified my crossmember, I'm not sure I'd cut that birdcage. Btw, I wouldn't recommend making a removable crossmember. Took far more time and effort than any future savings I'll get out of it.
Hey, I should clarify...I don't think I'd recommend cutting that bar...I am "just saying" I might do it. I can understand why I would do it, to make that area accessible...so, Patrick, your removable cross member comparison is pretty good. OP, you can get that thing in there without doing it, that's for sure.
Was using silicone. Got one side of 10 hose. Cannot get the other. They should provide a cone that fits over end of hose. Now trying two spoons and plastic bag. Still won’t go.
Will recruit my son tonight. He is a lot stronger than me!
I'd be happy if my car had a removable transmission crossmember, but if I were an interested buyer who noticed that a Z-bar had been cut and reattached, I'd become suspicious about whether that had been somebody's method of transplanting the VIN and trim tags.
I put a hose clamp behind the nut so that the nut couldn’t walk up the hose and then using a wood block as a pressing surface managed to push it through
Hmm, I don't recall having that much of a problem getting that hose through the grommet and panel. I did end up cutting some of the existing hose fittings off so I could shorten up the hoses and use different angled fittings. Maybe the ones I shortened is what you struggled with.
Have you fit the heater hoses yet? One suggestion - connect the heater control valve to the heater hoses before you feed the heater hose thru the firewall blower cover . . . it's a real PITA to try to connect the heater control valve to the hoses after! Ask me how I know???
I am a little late to this but Toms advice was solid. He also told me to pull back the carpet (critical room to be had) and install angling the console end of the unit inclined upward. You still need to play with it but she went in on the 3rd try, about 15 minutes. catching the firewall mounting screws takes some patience and I gave up on one of those (it's not going anywhere).
Had same struggle with the grommets. I ended up cutting from center of grommet outward on one side only, threading the hose through it's path and "screwing" the grommet back into place.
Thanks for the suggestions. More questions!
Does the heater control valve go under the dash? I haven't looked closely at that yet, but they didn't seem to explain it.
And here is the current issue. I started mounting the compressor, and the rear bracket is a problem. I have headers and little clearance around the mounting bolts. I need a 2 1/4 spacer. I was thinking I could just grind one side of spacer to make some room, and if necessary dent my newly coated headers?
I don’t have 17 pages of instructions. Just a few pages for each step. For compressor bracket they gave me one page and it’s a diagram.
The compressor needs to stand off at least an inch to clear valve cover. They call for 2 1/4.
I need to fit a spacer over a long bolt, but it will hit headers. Current plan is to find a spacer. Then grind one side flat to fit.
I don’t have 17 pages of instructions. Just a few pages for each step. For compressor bracket they gave me one page and it’s a diagram.
The compressor needs to stand off at least an inch to clear valve cover. They call for 2 1/4.
I need to fit a spacer over a long bolt, but it will hit headers. Current plan is to find a spacer. Then grind one side flat to fit.
I assume others have had to deal with this?
The compressor mounting instructions are 10 pages . . . they show "spacers" that you likely need.
02-14-2024, 06:14 PM
Another Vintage Air question
