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I think your starting issue was related to fuel temperature, not engine temperature. 220 is not hot, it's just slightly over normal operating temperature for modern engines.
But when the coolant is at 220, the carb is pretty warm also, and fuel will boil, and do fun things.
I tend to leave the hood open on my 62 if I'm stopping for a little while, so it can cool off a bit. And the fresh air duct blowing on the carb trick also helps especially in summer (not so helpful in winter when you kinda need the heater working)
I'm glad I live where they don't bother inspecting our cars any more.
I agree. Next time depress the pedal all the way down while cranking. Will help to clear out the rich mixture with more air mix. Ask me how I know.
The belt alignment on both belts looks off too. And if your really trying to make it look like a SHP engine you might want to get the correct pulleys
I bought the 300 snorkel air cleaner when I still thought I had a stock 300hp.
Now I’m just going for a clean driver look. Don’t think I’ll ever get to the NCRS level of everything being exactly correct.
it’s a 5 blade fan, and not sure if it’s stock or not.
regarding belt alignment, the alternator was mounted all sorts of ***-backwards with weird washers when I got her. This is how I have it lined up now (everything looks straight).
No headers. Stock 2.5” cast iron manifolds.
Originally Posted by Dan Hampton
I don't know if this was suggested--given the number of responses that I didn't read in total--but do you have a phenolic spacer between the carb and the manifold? That is a two-minute upgrade and worth the effort.
Yes, I have all the proper spacers/gaskets under the Carter.
Originally Posted by smacota1
I agree. Next time depress the pedal all the way down while cranking. Will help to clear out the rich mixture with more air mix. Ask me how I know.
I didn't think about trying this?! Will keep it in mind if it happens again.
I have a '65 327 300hp that was previously modified to a 350-365hp.
- I recently replaced the radiator (DeWitts), water pump (EMP/Stewart stage 1), 180* thermostat, all new hoses, etc.
- I also have timing dialed in using Duke/Lars method and I'm pretty sure she's running in tip top shape - very responsive, very smooth.
The only thing I haven't changed is my fan clutch, which I'm about to pull the trigger on.
Over the past few months, I've been venturing out farther and farther from home, and was under the impression that everything was "fine"...... until I went in for a state inspection.
They drove her around back for the inspection, and I waited up front. I know they left her on/idling the whole time as I could hear from where I was sitting.
The brought her back to the front, shut off the engine, and I was about to leave when she wouldn't start. I looked at the temp gauge, and she was ~220 - way hotter than I had ever seen it.
- the radiator cap never released, and I didnt have an infrared gun to check temp. I waited about an hour for her to cool down, occasionally cranking the starter to let the water pump do it's thing and move the water around. Temp gradually dropped to 160, and I got it started and rushed home.
- I checked the accelerator pump during the hour, and I never lost gas. However, I never checked for spark.
My questions:
What happens when the block gets hot that would prevent a restart? Do piston tolerances change with the heat to mess with compression?
or something much more simple like the coil overheating?
I live in Houston (Tomball) and have a 63 327/340. Had similar problem occasionally. I switched to non ethanol gas and problem is 90% gone! Buckies has non ethanol gas!
I'm surprised with that much space between the fan shroud and the tip of the fan that your car didn't overheat after idling for such a long time. There should be less than an inch between the shroud and fan. Picture of my '67 with 18" fan.
Heat riser is wired open.
Heat passages in the intake are not plugged under the carb. This is on my to-do list....
Stock fan shroud with new rubber seal on the bottom when I replaced the radiator.
You may want to experiment with the correct alternator pulley that will move the belt to the forward groove which will allow more clearance away from the lower radiator hose.
You may want to experiment with the correct alternator pulley that will move the belt to the forward groove which will allow more clearance away from the lower radiator hose.
^^^^THIS^^^^^
You've got the wrong alternator pulley for the deep groove WP and crank pulleys. With the right alt. pulley, your fan belt will go on the front sheaves and will be perfectly aligned. It isn't now.
What is the correct pulley? I used a generic double groove pulley to move the belt forward on my 62 that I converted to alternator using the 63 bracket.
What is the correct pulley? I used a generic double groove pulley to move the belt forward on my 62 that I converted to alternator using the 63 bracket.
Get an alternator pulley for a '63/'64 L76 or L84 engine.
. Inspection is required every 5 years. I have antique tags on my 63 here in Houston
Antique plated cars in Texas are EXEMPT from annual inspections. Classic plated cars in Texas must have an annual inspection. YOM plated cars are EXEMPT from annual inspections.
I live in Houston (Tomball) and have a 63 327/340. Had similar problem occasionally. I switched to non ethanol gas and problem is 90% gone! Buckies has non ethanol gas!
I get my non-ethanol from your same Buckies
Originally Posted by jim lockwood
You've got the wrong alternator pulley for the deep groove WP and crank pulleys. With the right alt. pulley, your fan belt will go on the front sheaves and will be perfectly aligned. It isn't now.
that’s the Alternator I got from Zips. I’ll look into the new pully for it.
Originally Posted by TexasSteve711
. Inspection is required every 5 years. I have antique tags on my 63 here in Houston
I have YOM (year of manufacture) plates. Wayyy cooler than antique/classic 😀
As far as the fan goes, I have no clue why I have 3 finger gap on top, but only 1 finger on the side. I’ll check the size
Antique plated cars in Texas are EXEMPT from annual inspections. Classic plated cars in Texas must have an annual inspection. YOM plated cars are EXEMPT from annual inspections.
correct antque cars are exempt from annual inspection, they are required to have an inspection every 5 years!
02-13-2024, 07:56 PM
