View Poll Results: Help to ID a CE block
I need help ID’ing a corvette CE block
3
50.00%
I need help ID’ing A corvette CE block
3
50.00%
Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll
CE block?
02-08-2024, 07:07 PM
#81
Advanced
I have learned from this thread that the "R" stamped on the pad of the engine (warranty replacement) in my '66 stands for "set up for standard transmission". other than the "R" there is nothing else stamped on the pad. the casting number on the block is right for a 1966 300 hp engine. the casting numbers on the heads are correct for a 300 hp engine. the date codes for the parts are 1966, but later than my cars build date (late '65). this thread has been very interesting.
02-08-2024, 07:15 PM
#82
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I have learned from this thread that the "R" stamped on the pad of the engine (warranty replacement) in my '66 stands for "set up for standard transmission". other than the "R" there is nothing else stamped on the pad. the casting number on the block is right for a 1966 300 hp engine. the casting numbers on the heads are correct for a 300 hp engine. the date codes for the parts are 1966, but later than my cars build date (late '65). this thread has been very interesting.
02-08-2024, 07:35 PM
#83
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02-08-2024, 07:38 PM
#84
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02-08-2024, 07:46 PM
#85
Le Mans Master
It would if the customer brought his car in to the dealer service department with an engine problem and the dealer determined he needed a new fitted case or shortblock. The dealer would supply a partial assembly with a blank stamp pad from their parts department and the mechanic doing the job would remove everything still good from the damaged engine and transfer it to the new shortblock in order to build another complete engine. That engine then is reinstalled in the car but now has a blank stamp pad. Mr. customer doesn't care about that, he just wanted his car fixed.
02-08-2024, 09:54 PM
#86
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It would if the customer brought his car in to the dealer service department with an engine problem and the dealer determined he needed a new fitted case or shortblock. The dealer would supply a partial assembly with a blank stamp pad from their parts department and the mechanic doing the job would remove everything still good from the damaged engine and transfer it to the new shortblock in order to build another complete engine. That engine then is reinstalled in the car but now has a blank stamp pad. Mr. customer doesn't care about that, he just wanted his car fixed.
Joe is saying a complete engine and you keep referring to partials and bare blocks.
Do you not believe that a complete engine would arrive at a dealer with a pad stamped with the plant, assembly date, and assembly code?
02-09-2024, 04:33 AM
#88
Le Mans Master
02-09-2024, 07:26 AM
#89
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02-09-2024, 01:17 PM
#90
Drifting
So, the 3858174 casting number for your block is correct for a 1966 Corvette small block. The casting date of I-4-6 indicates the the block was cast on September 4, 1966.
You mention that your car was built in late 1965. So, it looks like the original owner had an engine failure during the first year after he bought the car, and the engine failure required a replacement block (possibly an entire short block).
BTW, having the correct casting number is helpful for NCRS judging. Understanding how this works may be useful for you or a future owner to know.
In NCRS judging, 350 points are allocated to the block (out of 4500 points for the whole car). If the casting number is correct but the casting date is not within six months prior to the car's assembly date, the block still gets 175 points. The 175 point deduction is a big hit, but in theory, your car could still get a Top Flight if the rest of the car is near perfect. In practice, this would be very hard to achieve. The car can lose up to 270 points total and still get an NCRS Top Flight award.
My point is that having just the correct casting number is better than having an incorrect casting number.
You mention that your car was built in late 1965. So, it looks like the original owner had an engine failure during the first year after he bought the car, and the engine failure required a replacement block (possibly an entire short block).
BTW, having the correct casting number is helpful for NCRS judging. Understanding how this works may be useful for you or a future owner to know.
In NCRS judging, 350 points are allocated to the block (out of 4500 points for the whole car). If the casting number is correct but the casting date is not within six months prior to the car's assembly date, the block still gets 175 points. The 175 point deduction is a big hit, but in theory, your car could still get a Top Flight if the rest of the car is near perfect. In practice, this would be very hard to achieve. The car can lose up to 270 points total and still get an NCRS Top Flight award.
My point is that having just the correct casting number is better than having an incorrect casting number.
02-09-2024, 01:22 PM
#91
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So, the 3858174 casting number for your block is correct for a 1966 Corvette small block. The casting date of I-4-6 indicates the the block was cast on September 4, 1966.
You mention that your car was built in late 1965. So, it looks like the original owner had an engine failure during the first year after he bought the car, and the engine failure required a replacement block (possibly an entire short block).
BTW, having the correct casting number is helpful for NCRS judging. Understanding how this works may be useful for you or a future owner to know.
In NCRS judging, 350 points are allocated to the block (out of 4500 points for the whole car). If the casting number is correct but the casting date is not within six months prior to the car's assembly date, the block still gets 175 points. The 175 point deduction is a big hit, but in theory, your car could still get a Top Flight if the rest of the car is near perfect. In practice, this would be very hard to achieve. The car can lose up to 270 points total and still get an NCRS Top Flight award.
My point is that having just the correct casting number is better than having an incorrect casting number.
You mention that your car was built in late 1965. So, it looks like the original owner had an engine failure during the first year after he bought the car, and the engine failure required a replacement block (possibly an entire short block).
BTW, having the correct casting number is helpful for NCRS judging. Understanding how this works may be useful for you or a future owner to know.
In NCRS judging, 350 points are allocated to the block (out of 4500 points for the whole car). If the casting number is correct but the casting date is not within six months prior to the car's assembly date, the block still gets 175 points. The 175 point deduction is a big hit, but in theory, your car could still get a Top Flight if the rest of the car is near perfect. In practice, this would be very hard to achieve. The car can lose up to 270 points total and still get an NCRS Top Flight award.
My point is that having just the correct casting number is better than having an incorrect casting number.
02-09-2024, 02:37 PM
#92
Drifting
So, now we know that both the block and heads are not original to the car. What surprises me is that the pad does not have an engine assembly stamping. If the engine was sourced as a complete engine from the Flint (or Tonawanda) engine plant, I would expect it to have an assembly stamping on the pad.
I guess the only other parts we can check for a date code are the intake manifold (assuming its the 300 hp cast iron manifold) and the distributor.
02-09-2024, 04:42 PM
#93
Advanced
I think you may be right. I looked back in the thread and in post 81, he says, "the casting numbers on the heads are correct for a 300 hp engine. the date codes for the parts are 1966, but later than my cars build date (late '65)."
So, now we know that both the block and heads are not original to the car. What surprises me is that the pad does not have an engine assembly stamping. If the engine was sourced as a complete engine from the Flint (or Tonawanda) engine plant, I would expect it to have an assembly stamping on the pad.
I guess the only other parts we can check for a date code are the intake manifold (assuming its the 300 hp cast iron manifold) and the distributor.
So, now we know that both the block and heads are not original to the car. What surprises me is that the pad does not have an engine assembly stamping. If the engine was sourced as a complete engine from the Flint (or Tonawanda) engine plant, I would expect it to have an assembly stamping on the pad.
I guess the only other parts we can check for a date code are the intake manifold (assuming its the 300 hp cast iron manifold) and the distributor.
02-09-2024, 04:45 PM
#94
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if there is no flint assembly stamp then the "R" might be meaningless and done by a machine shop in the past for whatever reason
02-09-2024, 05:56 PM
#95
Drifting
the intake numbers are 3872783. cast numbers are D 18 4.. the front pad only has a "R" on it. I thought that might mean replacement, but saw where replacement engines would have a "R" or "S" or was it "T" for if it was set up for a manual or automatic application. manual trans cars got the "R" stamped engines. mine is a four speed. this car will never be judged by NCRS as it has modifications they would not approve of. I have just been interested in what I actually have. next time I have a reason to pull the valve covers , I will check the head numbers. I do remember checking them a while back and the casting numbers are right, but the dates are newer than the car by a few months. they also have the double humps.
I recall that there was an anomaly that caused some 1967 Corvettes to have an unusually old casting date (more than six months before the car was assembled). John Hinckley wrote an article about it. I'll try to find the article to see if it could explain the 1964 date on your intake.
Another dated component that would normally have been transferred from the original engine is the distributor. Original distributors had an ID tag wrapped around the base, with the distributor part number and manufacturing date. Below is a photo of the date code on my '67. This translates to March 13, 1967.
02-09-2024, 08:05 PM
#96
Advanced
the distributor date is 3 A 16 the part number is 1111024. looks like somewhere along the line, someone was replacing parts with whatever they could find at swap meets.
02-09-2024, 08:29 PM
#97
Drifting
A quick internet search confirms that the 1111024 is a '63-'64 distributor for 250 hp and 300 hp Corvettes. So, it appears that we have a block and heads from 1966, with a distributor from 1964 and an intake and that might also be from 1964. The specific series of events that led to this combination may never be known, but it's interesting to know the various dates on the parts. I suggest that you take photos of the various casting numbers and date codes for your records. It makes for an interesting mystery!