Intermittent no start
10-28-2023, 06:54 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Intermittent no start
My 67 would not start this morning. Just a couple of clicks then nothing, it started on the second attempt. I let it run for a few minutes then tried it again and nothing, not even a click, no lights, horn, clock. The battery tested at 12.47 V and 14.4 when it ran. I cleaned the battery terminals even though they were clean and tight . I'm going to get my race ramps and check the connections at the starter. Before I start replacing parts I would appreciate any advice as to the problem. Thanks, Peter
10-28-2023, 07:00 PM
#2
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Manual or auto
10-28-2023, 07:27 PM
#4
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Have you checked the firewall connector for the "red wire syndrome"? The large red wire sometimes gets corroded inside and the least movement can break the connection resulting in intermittent starting. Search for this. 
Dennis
Dennis
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3154tm (11-03-2023)
10-28-2023, 08:42 PM
#6
Team Owner
The symptoms are pretty clear indicator of a battery that doesn’t have current to provide. Disconnect battery leads and connect to a known good battery. Don’t just jump battery, disconnect old one snd connect good one. Jumper cables ok. Report back.
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c6miller (10-29-2023)
10-28-2023, 08:44 PM
#7
Team Owner
PS. Red wire at firewall won’t kill horn.
10-28-2023, 09:13 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thank you; The battery tested at 12.6V. It's an Interstate battery 5+ years old. The car just started right up. I'm thinking if it were a bad battery it would not be able to start the car. Earlier when the car did not start, I had no crank, lights, horn or clock. Does this sound like the ignition switch?
10-28-2023, 10:03 PM
#9
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No. As noted, the horn should be live all the time and its voltage does not run through the ignition switch.
If you have an intermittant complete dead condition (as in, everything, including horn, ignition, starter, courtesy lights stop working) it's got to be the battery itself or its connections (mainly ground).
If you have an intermittant complete dead condition (as in, everything, including horn, ignition, starter, courtesy lights stop working) it's got to be the battery itself or its connections (mainly ground).
10-28-2023, 10:42 PM
#10
Team Owner
You have either:
an internally defective battery (intermittent)
loose or corroded connection on the battery cable (wire to clamp) on one or both posts
negative battery terminal is loose or corroded where connected on the other end.
loose or corroded connections on the post of the starter solenoid that ties the battery voltage to the rest of the car.
A corroded connection can read good with a voltmeter, but when you try to send large starter current across the connections, it can't overcome the resistance of the connection. Your problem is within a foot or so of the starter connections and battery connections. Nothing else will cause your exact symptoms.
an internally defective battery (intermittent)
loose or corroded connection on the battery cable (wire to clamp) on one or both posts
negative battery terminal is loose or corroded where connected on the other end.
loose or corroded connections on the post of the starter solenoid that ties the battery voltage to the rest of the car.
A corroded connection can read good with a voltmeter, but when you try to send large starter current across the connections, it can't overcome the resistance of the connection. Your problem is within a foot or so of the starter connections and battery connections. Nothing else will cause your exact symptoms.
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10-28-2023, 10:49 PM
#11
Team Owner
RE: option #4 above. Loose connections on the starter solenoid post where the battery connects, or corrosion between the wire connectors are possible . Make sure the nut is tight and clean and the ring connectors are tight and clean to the post and to the wire that attaches to them. Check to see if your fusible link at the starter is brittle or crusty, as in having been overheated.
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c6miller (10-29-2023)
10-29-2023, 07:07 AM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I appreciate all your help. I did clean up the battery terminals and today I am going to check the battery connections at the starter. I'll remove and clean them and probably get a fresh battery since the one I have is going on 6 years old.
10-29-2023, 09:56 AM
#13
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6 year old battery with an occasional no crank? 65GGvert's advice is to be followed. If the problem remains, you have a battery with an internal short or open that fixes itself with temperature or current flow. At year 6 a car battery owes you nothing. No rhyme or reason either. The AC Delco in my 65 396 is 11 years old and still works. I've had Interstate and NAPA batteries go only 4 years. Buying and installing a battery can be a trip to the casino.
When replacing a battery it is a good idea to check your charging system. Make sure you are between 13.8 and 14.2 volts or very close at high revs, headlamps on. Often mechanical regulators will pit their contacts and stick which can overcharge and shorten battery life considerably.
Your dash battery gauge will not inform you of overcharging.
Dan
When replacing a battery it is a good idea to check your charging system. Make sure you are between 13.8 and 14.2 volts or very close at high revs, headlamps on. Often mechanical regulators will pit their contacts and stick which can overcharge and shorten battery life considerably.
Your dash battery gauge will not inform you of overcharging.
Dan
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Bluestripe67 (10-29-2023)
11-03-2023, 06:19 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
UPDATE; To solve the intermittent no start, I purchased a new AC Delco group 24 battery from my local dealer and ordered new battery cables from ZIP. I'm not quite sure why, but the spring clip on the cable will not fit over the posts. My old cables seemed to be in good shape so I cleaned them up and will use them.