SNKBITE65

As you can tell from the sound of my throwout bearing, is there any way to lube this without removal? It is a new TO bearing and I believe I have the one and a half inch play before engagement. Any ideas?

Matt Gruber

spray some WD40 with a long straw

DansYellow66

You can try some lubricant via straw but you probably need another bearing. What make is that one?

jforb

uh...it makes noise when the pedal is released. In that situation, the bearing should not be touching anything that's rotating. So is it really the bearing? Perhaps the bearing is not sitting on the fork correctly? Or is there a problem with the engine, too much end play in the crank or something?

SNKBITE65

LuK Clutch Kits 04-021

from summit racing and came with the clutch and pressure plate specifically for the 65 327. Original replacement I presume.

SNKBITE65

I used some spray lithium with the straw on the shaft the TO bearing rides on. Shut the damn thing up for about 50 miles then came back again.

DansYellow66

Was it a plastic body throw out bearing. Who was the manufacturer of the clutch kit?

SNKBITE65

LuK Clutch Kits 04-021 Purchased from Summit

C2Dude

We had another post not that long ago with a new T/O bearing that was making noise while retracted on the input shaft collar (where it should not be moving). My incorrect offering was that due to that fact it may have been the Muncie. IIRC he had someone work on the linkage and managed to shut it up. Personally I am still not sure of what was going on with his but you can't argue with results. Regarding the lube idea, just be careful, It might be hard to control the stream emitted from a spritz can and you do not want any of that finding it's way to the clutch disc or flywheel surface.

jforb

If you watch the video, you'll see that the noise happens when the foot is off the pedal, and the noise goes away when the bearing makes contact (foot takes up free play in pedal).

Squirting lube in there blindly is pretty far down on the list of things I would consider doing. Spending some time playing with the linkage and watching the fork while someone inside moves the pedal a little bit, is very high on the list.

SNKBITE65

I’m going to try to use a thin paint brush and apply some Molylube on the shaft. Thinking not enough lube (if any) was applied to the input shaft. Hoping the ID surface of the bearing riding on the shaft isn’t too scored.

DansYellow66

Im afraid that’s the kit known for the junky plastic throw out bearing. The clutch itself is fine. I’ve read comments from a few users that said they worked OK but most (many) guys take one look at hem and throw them away and replacing them with a quality all metal bearing.

plaidside

When you step on the clutch, the flywheel/clutch assembly, crankshaft and release bearing is spinning and the noise stops. What does stop spinning what the clutch is disengaged is the front input shaft/bearing in the transmission.
If you are driving the car and in fourth gear, does the noise change? My guess would be something in the trans. For ha ha's did you check the trans fluid?
I did a trans for a guy that he had a horrible noise in all gears but second. Turned out he had very little oil in the trans and the second gear was dry on the shaft. So when he put it in second gear, the gear and shaft was spinning as one and no noise. Rebuilt the unit, cleaned up the gear ID and shaft OD and all is well.

jforb

Kind of...but the noise goes away when the pedal is pushed enough to take up the free play, before it gets anywhere near disengaging the clutch and making the input shaft stop turning.

SNKBITE65

The noise disappears as soon as the TO bearing makes contact with the clutch forks no matter which gear I am shifting into.

Sherry Red

Try adjusting the clutch freeplay to half of the 1.5" you have it set to now. Go to 3/4" freeplay.

Did that change anything?

Matt Gruber

i had one of those in my 61 for a year. TOB was the best part. Next good thing, it was 5# lighter than my old clutch.
it was good for ONE hot shift or burnout, then it would slip (on my 355)
does NOT belong in a vette, despite them saying it is an OEM replacement for the 427. Pure fantasy by Luk

C2Dude

My rookie sense is it's in the Muncie, but I was wrong last time this came up. IF you feel it's the T/O bearing that is replaceable without dropping the Muncie. When I installed a new McLeod clutch/flywheel a couple years back (327 and under car exhaust) I needed an adjustable bearing as the McLeod flywheel was thinner that the iron unit that I removed. I decided to use a Novac adjustable bearing. That turned out to be bad out of the box. To replace it with a new McLeod bearing I was able to slide the supported Muncie all the way back and reach in through the bell to replace the bearing. This was the second time these parts were dismantled so I had no issue loosening bolts or anything. I only took about 4 hours start to finish and she's fine. Just in case you go down that road.

SNKBITE65

It does disappear when I take some of the free play out at the top of clutch pedal stroke. Is not the TO bearing going to continuously turn if it touches the clutch fork? Would this not prematurely wear out the TO bearing?

SJW

Possibly the TO isn't seated properly on the fork, and is making minimal contact with the release fingers on the PP -- enough that the fingers are scraping across the mating surface of the TO, but not enough to get the TO spinning. Taking up the free play gets the TO spinning and stops the noise. Or maybe the TO is coming apart. I'd see what can be observed through the opening where the fork passes through the bellhousing. A borescope might be very handy for this examination.

Live well,

SJW