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I posted the nightmare I went through installing aftermarket air in my 65 and now I'm doing one on a 67. Don't get me wrong, I think the Vintage Air system works awesome. I just think there is a better (easier) way to install this and make it more serviceable if you have trouble down the road. I hated pulling the hoses though the kick vent while trying to fight the module at the same time. With the existing design, you better make sure everything is right, o'rings in place, fittings all tight because if something leaks later you are screwed. You're doing the whole (nightmare) job over again.
My plan is to modify the main module to have the Coolant and Refrigerant terminate at a bulhead mounted in the block off plate. That way you just bolt the module under the dash and add the hoses later. The kick vent remains intact for fresh air or speaker mounting if you like. Here is an image that I made as a plan. I'll post the progress as it goes.
On the earlier units, it looks like they came through that opening. I’m guessing the the current unit design system works better, though I don’t know why they couldn’t do what you propose. It sure would be easier. Here are some pics of an early design install.
I have the rough plumbing done. It is pretty tight in there and I had to weld together 90 degree fittings for the AC lines instead of bending a single tube. On the coolant side, I cut off the straight fittings and soldered on 90 degree ear elbows. You can buy these at Homedepot. You could just quit with the coolant and and run the AC hoses as supplied. That would cut in half the number of hoses you have to pull through the kick panels. I'll post the finished assembly in a couple days
I am getting a few requests to do this and I am not really interested in taking that on. I will sent something to Vintage air of my conversion and maybe they will adopt it or offer a kit to change the install. Meanwhile, I am sure cutting off the water fittings and soldering on new ones voided my warranty. So if you take this on, make sure you do not damage your module when sweating on the new fittings. Here are a few tips...
Cut off the existing fittings (leaving about 3/4" of tubing) with a hacksaw. No reason to apply unnecessary heat to the unit. Before soldering, grind off the fat boss ring around the openning so it fits inside the VA rubber grommet. If you are not good at soldering, get someone that is, or practice on something else. You need to clean the inside and outside of both the tube and the fitting. You need to flux the inside and outside of the fittings. Use the metal supplied block off plate as a heat shield. Hit it with heat and sweat it as fast as possible, Test the connection with soapy water with 30 psi compressed air
Since I am in the plumbing industry, here’s what I would do. No heat needed and will outlast a soldered joint. Could take it to a local plumber and have it crimped on if the jaws fit. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-79...SABEgLyzfD_BwE
Corvette people have tolerated this terrible design for many years.. the easiest way to install the evap unit is to remove the blower and reinstall it once evap unit is in place. Just make sure the forward blower three screws are pre installed to the tightest position allowing the blower to slid in position. Very difficult to tighten screws once installed. The three visible blower screw appear adequate to hold blower unit.
Since I am in the plumbing industry, here’s what I would do. No heat needed and will outlast a soldered joint. Could take it to a local plumber and have it crimped on if the jaws fit.
The gap behing the copper tube is about 1/16" (See post #6) Nothing is going in there
Love it… Tom, thanks soooo much for sharing this info/pics.. I’ve been on the fence with this upgrade for a couple of years now just collecting parts ideas etc. I found this shop on e-bay that makes these aluminum panels especially for the C2 firewall (and others)..it’s in New Mexico goes by LRE fab shop (do a google search).
here’s some of the parts I’m collecting. Thanks again you are giving me more ideas how it could be done..
I really would like to move the battery to the driver’s side, after all they make the battery tray, door, correct battery cable, etc for that inner fender on C2 a/c cars, I just don’t feel right (yet) about making them cuts:-)… Hope Im not stepping on your toes here by no means or hi-jacking your post just want to share some ideas?
Chalie
I plan on running the aeroquip (teflon liner inner) style braided hoses may not be for everyone ? This is how the aluminum panel came from LRE fab shop (e-bay) they have a website google them located in New Mexico. I may paint the panel ? I’m big on polishing it but not sure?
** The cardboard is just a template I traced off the aluminum panel so I can use it instead of the aluminum for all my mock up so I don’t scratch/dent the aluminum Panel **
TOM, thanks again for all you are doing/sharing…
Chalie
09-10-2023, 09:31 PM
Vintage Air modification (TomAir)
