CADbrian

For the longest time I was perplexed about why my brake pedal moved about an inch whenever I pressed in on the clutch pedal, and why my clutch pedal moved about an inch whenever I pressed in on the brake pedal. Here is that thread, and now I know why.

I always knew that one day, when I had a good enough reason, I'd expend the effort to find out and remedy the situation but to do so I would need to pull the telescopic steering column (a daunting task especially for someone that is not mechanically gifted) and then I'd be able to get to the clutch and brake pedal assembly (CBPA). The day came recently when I discovered the turn signal switch inside my 67 telescopic steering column was faulty causing my horns to not function properly. That's all the reason I needed. Now I have the reason I needed to pull the steering column out to be refurbished and rebuilt and then also pull the CBPA. I haven't done any of this before but I told myself I'd make notes (as best as I can) and share the steps with those who come behind me looking for info on how to remove the CBPA along with any tips and suggestions I collected during the process. Keep in mind, I'm a relatively newbie to C2's and not an experienced mechanic, so I'm sure there are better ways of doing this but this is how I did it, and I hope it helps the next guy.

1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the steering column (mine had already been removed during a prior project which then lead to this project, funny how that works)
3. Disconnect the brake pedal push rod from the brake pedal (interior) (Picture 1)
4. Disconnect the clutch return spring (engine bay)
5. Remove the jam nuts and swivel from the end of the clutch pedal push rod (engine bay)
6. Raise the back of the car to level the brake fluid within the master cylinder (yah, yah, yah, I know I didn't have to do this but restoring my MC was SUCH a PITA I didn't want any brake fluid to leak out ruining all the time and effort I put into restoring my MC)
7. With some nylon webbing I secured the master cylinder to a 10 foot 2x4 that spanned the width of the car (you could support the master cylinder from underneath if you prefer) where each ends of the 2x4 was supported by a stack of milk crates just slightly taller than the fender of my car (Pictures 2 - 4)
8. Remove the two bolts above the master cylinder - the ones whose threaded tips go into the windshield washer cowl area (engine bay) (Picture 5)
9. Disconnect the brake sensor switch (interior) (Pictures 6 & 7)
10. Remove the brake sensor switch capacitor (vienna sausage looking thing from the ceiling of the clutch and brake assembly housing) (interior) (Pictures 6 & 7)
11. Remove the trip odometer from the clutch and brake assembly housing (interior) (Picture 8)
12. Remove the nuts from the 2 lower master cylinder firewall bolts - the ones whose tips are pointing to the rear of the car through the bottom of the CBPA housing (interior) (Pictures 9 - 11)
13. Pull the master cylinder forward off its supporting bolts and is now supported by the 2x4 (engine bay)
14. Remove the two nuts and washers of the CBPA housing studs that are directly behind the master cylinder (engine bay) (Picture 12)
15. Remove the two bolts in the ceiling/top of clutch and brake assembly housing (interior) (Pictures 13 & 14)
16. Pull the clutch and brake assembly housing straight back and out of the car (interior) (Picture 15)




Picture 1


Picture 2


Picture 3


Picture 4


Picture 5


Picture 6


Picture 7


Picture 8


Picture 9


Picture 10


Picture 11


Picture 12


Picture 13


Picture 14


Picture 15

Con

Appreciate the detailed procedure to remove the clutch brake assembly but not sure I understand why the pedals moved together. Was the assembly deformed?

Plasticman

I see cracks in the firewall....
Someone has been doing some substantial braking, and needs some fiberglass reinforcement.

Plasticman

CADbrian

Nothing was deformed. The clutch and brake pedals moved in unison for about the first 1 inch of travel because the lube (that was used by someone in my car's past) turned into the stickiest adhesive imaginable. Imagine the stickiest fly paper possible and then multiply the stickiness by 100. Whatever the lube was it was clear and almost invisible. You could only feel it and it was suuuuuuper sticky.

CADbrian

If pictures 9, 10, and 11 are what you are referencing about the cracks, those cracks are not on/in the firewall. Those pix are on the inside of the car and are of the black fiber board stuff that goes over the firewall insulation. Any old fiber board stuff that I've ever seen has a similar look but is not cracked.

Con

Thanks. As Jim L says "Expiring minds..."
Glad you found it and thanks for the write up