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<whispering> I believe it's the opposite: cold easier to spin, hot hard to spin. </whispering>
The fan clutch works off engine temp so that it engages as the engine heats up. That's why it should come to a fairly quick stop when shutting down a hot engine but may freewheel a few revolutions on a cold engine.
LOL yeah that's not what I said is it? Can't win 'em all
Before going the LS route, my 327/300 PG coupe ran hot. I did everything, rebuilt engine, Dewitts, fan clutches, timing, shroud seals, you name it, I did it. All temps were verified with IR guns, very frustrating. On hot days with AC on, 210 on the highway and 225-235 in traffic. The only thing I found that helped was a 6 blade fan, but it was noisy and didn't help much. Many on his forum have C2s that run "cool", but I sure couldn't get mine to.
I think our cars were separated at birth.Good luck resolving your issues.Way out of my league.
OFF TOPIC When I bought my car, Sunfire would not have been my first choice, it was OK, but not my favorite. Well after driving it almost daily for over four years I have changed my tune. I love Sunfire Yellow. Yours is a beauty, those bolt on wheels really set it apart. (I'm tempted to get some)
Yes, but it is at the rear body of the fan clutch and is a sealed bearing lubrucated by grease, When they go out the fan blade will wobble or have play side to side.
The timing setting at idle is really not important. Set it so your mechanical is correct at 3,000 RPM and if your idle timing is between 4 and 12* you can live with it. Some go with 2,800 for full mechanical advance, some go as high as 4,000 RPM but most common today is to have full mechanical advance in by 3,000.
i just performed Lars’ timing instructions, and this is the first post I came upon relevant to my question.
i disconnected a plate spring, and set timing to 36 degrees; however, my new base timing at idle is ~19 much higher than the 4-12 range you mentioned (and mentioned in the service manuals).
i should also mention that I have a dual point distributor with only 1 set of points installed (dwell at 30). My understanding is that dual points can work as single points when you remove the second set.
shoukd I “live with” 19 or is there something I should be adjusting?
i disconnected a plate spring, and set timing to 36 degrees;
At what rpm do you reach 36*? With only one spring, I would worry that it is coming on too fast and you may get pinging. Also 19* static for 36* total means mechanical is only 17* which would be strange. Did someone swap out the bushing under the weights? That controls total mechanical advance.
At what rpm do you reach 36*? With only one spring, I would worry that it is coming on too fast and you may get pinging. Also 19* static for 36* total means mechanical is only 17* which would be strange. Did someone swap out the bushing under the weights? That controls total mechanical advance.
disconnecting the spring is only so you can set timing at 36* at a lower rpm. The spring goes back on after the timing process.
im more confused about the 19* static. Someone swapped out a ‘62 dual point distributor onto my 65 327/300.
...more confused about the 19* static. Someone swapped out a ‘62 dual point distributor onto my 65 327/300.
I never worked on a dual-point, but check out the timing @L78ended up with for his 327/350. It's right up there in the high-teens too. If it starts and runs well with no trailer-hitching action or pinging with load, then I wouldn't worry about it.
disconnecting the spring is only so you can set timing at 36* at a lower rpm. The spring goes back on after the timing process.
im more confused about the 19* static. Someone swapped out a ‘62 dual point distributor onto my 65 327/300.
Using the two standard springs may make the advance rather lazy. Check to see what rpm it hits 36*. If it is not until 5000 or so, you are driving around with retarded spark
08-08-2023, 04:46 PM
Can't win 'em all
