When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good morning! I currently own a 1976 C3 that I'm restoring (slowly but surely), and a 2006 C6- both are automatics (as my wife doesn't drive a stick and wouldn't let me buy them unless she could drive them).
A neighbor wants me to buy his 1962 C1 4 speed manual, which he states he has had judged by NCRS and it is a second flight vehicle. Fair price, gorgeous vehicle (pictures later if others are interested).
Will be test driving next week prior to purchase, but he was telling me that he places a block under the clutch pedal to prevent it from going too far, otherwise it catches on the flywheel. Perhaps embarrassingly, I haven't driven a manual in a long while, and as an amateur I've never worked on a manual transmission.
So, a few questions to the esteemed members of the forum:
1) Is this a typical issue on a C1/1962 Corvette?
2) Does this need to be fixed or is his wood block under the clutch a reasonable solution?
3) If the clutch is fixed, does that effect the NCRS evaluation/judging?
Any other ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated! I think his price is fair from what I can gather from Hemmings/other sources, but as an amateur collector it is still pricey to me, so I don't want to get in over my head (ie, $$$$ for repairs).
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by mmulet; 07-29-2023 at 08:10 AM.
Reason: Fix typo.
It kind of sounds like he might have a straight finger, passenger car clutch in the car that have a reputation for hanging at the floor in high rpm shifts. I think limiting the possibility of over travel was one of the make shift solutions. Otherwise, maybe just some wear or incorrect parts somewhere in the clutch linkage/TO bearing system I would guess. I would suggest it needs to be fixed which certainly wouldn’t hurt it in judging.
If you farm out the work it shouldn’t be more than $1500 I should think unless it grows into a transmission job too. If you do it yourself you could probably replace the clutch, flywheel and other major parts for under $800. I may not be taking into account the last couple years inflation fully.
I'm inclined to fix it, but was a little concerned about the judging aspect. (ie, more important to keep the original parts in place and just go with the make shift solution, or have it fixed and possibly drop it from a second flight vehicle to a third flight vehicle). My understanding is that a second flight vehicle can have some unoriginal parts but not too many.
To each their own, but I don't want the car to be a garage queen. I'd like to be able to drive it a bit in the summer, so I guess I'm not as concerned about the flight status as I am in making it a reliable car to drive. Maybe I should be?
Hmmm....they worked when new, with all the original parts, so it seems to me that getting it back to that condition (like new and working properly) would keep you happy on all counts?
Might be wrong parts, might be worn/damaged parts, might be adjustment. But the odds of being able to fix it are pretty good, I would not let that put me off buying the car.
Dan's answer brings back bad memories. The flat fingered diaphragm pressure plate was used primarily on 4 and 6 cylinder cars back in the 60s and 70s. I don't know if they were used in C1s or still used them. It is a distinct possibility too much travel will make it stick.
I would check the linkage adjustment and assure you have the correct components when you are troubleshooting it. Many knowledgeable C1 owners can guide you to obtain resolution.
Your new vette, did not pass a NCRS inspection
with a block of wood, on the floor board. GM did
not offer, blocks of wood to new car customers, so
they could operate the clutch.
Best bet, fix it right,no blocks of wood and you will be
in good standing with NCRS.
Congrad and good luck
I thought it was odd, and I’m not sure why the owner hasn’t had it fixed rather than use a wood block, but I think i’ll go ahead with the purchase and have it fixed.
If by "catching", he means the clutch pedal is staying on the floor, that may just require an adjustment of the linkage--in particular the "over center" point of the assist spring. The assist spring is sometimes known as the "gorilla spring"; it initially resists clutch pedal movement (so the clutch stays up when not being pressed), but partway through the pedal stroke it goes over center and begins assisting the pedal effort. Some regard this as a byzantine system, but I think it's sort of ingenuous, and not too difficult to understand or work on.
Here is a diagram showing where the over center adjustment is:
I was reading the service manual last night, and found the adjustment instructions....something about disconnecting the linkage to the fork, and then see that it takes between 6 and 9 pounds of force to move the clutch pedal. Mine was adjusted properly, and even with a diaphragm clutch it doesn't stick down, although it has very little resistance at the lower end of it's travel...as though it almost wants to stick to the floor.
I expect that using the correct pressure plate would make a significant difference.
Great information! I'll have some good questions for him when we meet up early next week for the test drive, and I can see exactly what he means.
Maybe we can work on adjusting that linkage; it doesn't look too difficult. Worse case scenario is I'll either have to buy the parts and replace the clutch myself (looks like that might be in that wheelhouse), or have the mechanic I go to do the work.
He specifically says it "catches on the flywheel", which obviously means more to you experts than it does to me (due to inexperience driving a manual and also inexperience on working on manual transmission vehicles).
I had this problem on my ‘62 many years ago. It had a flat finger diaphragm pressure plate. Replaced it with a tent style diaphragm pressure plate and problem was fixed. I believe it comes from an over center condition that may be adjusted out but I could not get it right till I changed the pressure plate.
The original pressure plate used by GM was a 3-finger Borg and Beck pressure plate. Many have been replaced by a diaphragm style pressure plate. The incorrect diaphragm style will easily go over-center and the pedal stays on the floor.
I replaced my clutch two years ago with the correct diaphragm disc type clutch. ( the one that is called for on a 1962 Corvette) It has worked perfectly with the correct travel distance and free travel. No sticking or issues. A diaphragm type clutch that has the raised fingers will work just fine.
07-29-2023, 08:09 AM
1962 Clutch Issue
