1966 450hp overheating
#2
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,365
Received 19,406 Likes
on
14,032 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Moved to C1/C2 Corvettes.
The following users liked this post:
1bdvet (05-17-2023)
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 49,082
Received 6,982 Likes
on
4,802 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Google corvette cooling 101 written by John Hinckly in Corvette enthusiast magazine
The following users liked this post:
65-L78 (05-18-2023)
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,230
Received 1,540 Likes
on
1,041 Posts
Welcome to the forum. I am sure you will need to provide more details on the engine and cooling system to get good troubleshooting recommendations. Does it overheat idling, on the highway, etc. What is the definition of overheat - 220 degrees F ?? Is it puking fluid? Have you verified the temp with an IR gun? Fan type - stock or electric or ??? Radiator original or new or ???
Look in the FAQ section at the top of the first page and I think you will find the cooling 101 article, or at least a lot of information.
\
Look in the FAQ section at the top of the first page and I think you will find the cooling 101 article, or at least a lot of information.
\
The following 3 users liked this post by R66:
#5
Almost Retired
Is the timing correct? Bad thermostat? Is fan mounted properly in relation to shroud? Is radiator good? Did this just start? Is it boiling over or just reading hot on gauge? Not really enough info to fix problem.
#6
Burning Brakes
Or it could be that your temperature sensor unit screwed into your intake manifold is reading way high but your temperature is actually okay. Those units nowadays (even brand new in the box) are notoriously inaccurate. We need a lot more information from you before we can accurately begin to diagnose your problem and help you fix it. Welcome to the Forum. C.J.
#7
Le Mans Master
And another 'Welcome to the Corvette Forum'. Your question comes up fairly often. Could be a number of things and you're already getting some good advice to help clear it up.
When the dust settles, have a look at this long running thread started by a fellow Forum member on "L72s". So far we've gotten over 50 owners to post up pics and tell us the background
story on their L72's. Some are bone stock, others, like mine, 'not so much' but some great reading on all of them. We even have input from folks overseas like Germany, France, Sweden, Switzerland and the UK.
Hope you joins us on this thread.
C2 1966 L72 count - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Mike T - Prescott AZ
When the dust settles, have a look at this long running thread started by a fellow Forum member on "L72s". So far we've gotten over 50 owners to post up pics and tell us the background
story on their L72's. Some are bone stock, others, like mine, 'not so much' but some great reading on all of them. We even have input from folks overseas like Germany, France, Sweden, Switzerland and the UK.
Hope you joins us on this thread.
C2 1966 L72 count - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Last edited by Vet65te; 05-17-2023 at 09:27 AM.
#8
it all stock. Had a frame off couple yrs ago. It will over heat sitting and driving. And yes does puke out. My first thing is adding electric fans, then flushing, thermostat, then water pump.
#9
Melting Slicks
I suggest you don't start buying solutions until you have identified the problem. Root causes can be: 1) too much heat generated by the engine; 2) poor circulation of coolant; 3) poor heat transfer at the radiator; and 4) insufficient air flow through the radiator. I'd start by eliminating possible causes as a way of homing in on the root cause. For example, be sure the fan is operating correctly and air is not bypassing the radiator through openings around the shroud. When you know that is not the problem, check it off and move on to the next issue (e.g., engine producing too much heat due to bad tuning).
The following users liked this post:
ChrisBlair (05-17-2023)
#11
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Oviedo Florida
Posts: 8,818
Received 1,256 Likes
on
818 Posts
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of Year Finalist
the engine over heats , now diagnose the problem
and your problem will be solved. Has your rad hoses
collapsed? Yes or no. Then go to the thermostate good or bad?
move on....down the line of reasons for over heating. Radiator
stock?? You could need a new one.
Good luck
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
Posts: 8,420
Received 5,605 Likes
on
2,816 Posts
2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C7 of the Year Winner - Modified
This could be as simple as a stuck thermostat. My L72 never overheats, even when idling for long periods in 90 degree+ heat.
Electric fans are definitely not part of the solution!
Electric fans are definitely not part of the solution!
#13
Le Mans Master
To the Original Poster - it has to be frustrating to buy a Corvette that has been restored only to find there are issues with it. It's a Royal Pain to have to break out the tools to get to the bottom of this but
it's the only way. When you have the time, check a few things that have already been suggested and report back and hopefully in a short period of time, you'll be back to enjoying your new L72.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
it's the only way. When you have the time, check a few things that have already been suggested and report back and hopefully in a short period of time, you'll be back to enjoying your new L72.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
#14
Le Mans Master
A car could have a had a frame off restoration a couple of years ago and never been driven since. These cars need to be driven...often. Do you know if the radiator was replaced? I believe you have a coolant flow issue. Typically, if a car will overheat while driving, the radiator is not doing it's job of cooling or the thermostat is stuck not allowing the coolant to move through the system. Are you mechanically inclined? Do you plan on diagnosing this issue by yourself or by a respected mechanic who knows old cars?
As stated, this conversation comes up often in the summer months and there are scads of threads to search...but the best article is John Hinckley "Cooling 101" (RIP)
As stated, this conversation comes up often in the summer months and there are scads of threads to search...but the best article is John Hinckley "Cooling 101" (RIP)
The following 2 users liked this post by leif.anderson93:
ChrisBlair (05-17-2023),
Guasto2021 (05-18-2023)
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2015
Location: Huntsville AL & Hills of Southern TN
Posts: 2,292
Received 904 Likes
on
595 Posts
Agree with all about throwing parts at it. After I made sure all the basics on my L72 were correct, I replaced the original radiator with a HD Dewitts. Now can idle in 90+ southern summer days. Before stop lights made me nervous. Not now.
#16
Instructor
Hey Laguna,
Slow down a bit and lets eliminate the most probable mechanical issue first. The absolute first thing to check is the heat riser located on the passenger exhaust just between the cast manifold and the pipe itself. it is spring loaded and you will be required to wire it open with some stainless wire or a stainless exhaust wrap. you should be able to move the weight on the exhaust riser 90 degrees with your hand before starting the car. if the riser is stuck, it will overheat every single time and you will have much larger issues pretty quickly until you fix that.
Personally, i take them off and remove the butterfly inside the riser with a plasma cutter so that it appears stock from the outside, but the flap is gone inside.
when you determine that this is functioning correctly lets see a picture of the inside of the radiator thru the cap hole - running and not running
Slow down a bit and lets eliminate the most probable mechanical issue first. The absolute first thing to check is the heat riser located on the passenger exhaust just between the cast manifold and the pipe itself. it is spring loaded and you will be required to wire it open with some stainless wire or a stainless exhaust wrap. you should be able to move the weight on the exhaust riser 90 degrees with your hand before starting the car. if the riser is stuck, it will overheat every single time and you will have much larger issues pretty quickly until you fix that.
Personally, i take them off and remove the butterfly inside the riser with a plasma cutter so that it appears stock from the outside, but the flap is gone inside.
when you determine that this is functioning correctly lets see a picture of the inside of the radiator thru the cap hole - running and not running
The following users liked this post:
Lotsacubes (05-17-2023)
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2001
Location: Various places in California. Not currently aflame.
Posts: 20,513
Received 638 Likes
on
394 Posts
Welcome aboard!
Lots of good suggestions here. I still would want to verify you really have a problem. Is the coolant level correct in the radiator to start with? If it's overfilled, it will burp out some coolant when it gets hot. I'd definitely verify the actual temp with a quality infrared temp gun.
Once it's confirmed you have a true overheat condition, my checklist would be:
Proper fan
Fan about halfway in the shroud
Correct timing
Radiator hoses not collapsing
Proper heat riser function (or eliminated)
Seal off air leaks between radiator and shroud
Lots of good suggestions here. I still would want to verify you really have a problem. Is the coolant level correct in the radiator to start with? If it's overfilled, it will burp out some coolant when it gets hot. I'd definitely verify the actual temp with a quality infrared temp gun.
Once it's confirmed you have a true overheat condition, my checklist would be:
Proper fan
Fan about halfway in the shroud
Correct timing
Radiator hoses not collapsing
Proper heat riser function (or eliminated)
Seal off air leaks between radiator and shroud
#19
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2018
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 1,600
Received 1,558 Likes
on
614 Posts
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Could someone please post photos of the seals around the radiator, shroud and hood that have been mentioned, that should be on the OP's car?
Thank you.....
Thank you.....
#20
Racer
Our L76 '65 had an older radiator with a Harrison sticker, but, while it fit very well, was not looking like a first class unit. It also had a visible repair to one tube. The clutch fan looked new (we've had the car some 2 years and it was an old, rather complete, restoration). Just threw the suspect parts at it - new DeWitt's, new fancy recommended clutch fan (165 degree cut in) and...... Bob's your uncle, now under the gauge center on 85 degree days at constant 75 mph (3:70 rear end). Previously it would pass the center of the gauge after 9 or 10 miles at 70 mph.