Rich Yanulis

That's what the reinforced slots in the frame were for.



FWIW......I use T-Hooks as shown in post #2 when towing my C2.

vjjack04

This shouldnt be complicated. Either way will and does work. Just use quality stuff and dont over-think it.

Vettrocious

I fail to see where wheel nets impart different loads on the suspension than the car would see on a similar drive on its tires. With that said, I used nets with one trailer and t-hooks on another with no problem either way. I’ve never “cranked down” the suspension though, why is that necessary or advisable?

reno stallion

[QUOTE=Rich Yanulis;1606614488]That's what the reinforced slots in the frame were for.



Yep

CADbrian

How were our midyear cars shipped from the factory? On trains in train cars? On trucks hauling trailers? All the above?

Vettrocious

Yes

63 340HP

The goal of tie downs is to secure the load from shifting.
The strongest force to resist is forward motion/momentum under braking, where mid-frame t-hooks and long tie downs secured behind the load serve the purpose well without restraint contact touching the load. Cross these rear restraints to resist sideways motion (cbernhardt's photo of his 59' shows the result employed from the front, along with his use of front tire chocks).
The weaker force to resist is rearward motion/momentum under acceleration, where use of the unreinforced inboard mid-frame or front frame slots for t-hooks, or front tire tie down restraints, work well without unwanted load contact. Cross these front restraints if possible to further resist sideways motion.

You don't need to preload the suspension much, but some tension to resist bouncing will help hold the load in position and reduce suspension movement. The preload does not need to be as secure as employed on a chassis dyno, and also not so secure that it bends the frame. Use good judgement and check the load after a few miles with starts and stops to settle the load, and as mentioned check every 100 miles or every hour to assure no restraint rubs the load or comes loose.

61corv

I have used etrack on both my trailers, open and closed, with over the tire straps. I leave the car in neutral but parking brake on. I let the car suspension move. Never had an issue towing from Nevada to Nebraska or to Pennsylvania.

The 1 time I let a buddy use straps around the an arms and axle the car came loose. No damage though, we felt something hit pulling away from a stop sign about a mile from the house. We slowly pulled over to find the rear bumper against the back of the trailer. Only rolled about 8 inches. Could have been a disaster.

JohnnyRay

Right. We strap Harleys down the same way. Hook the frame and compress the suspension front and rear...

TCracingCA

Many tow operators will not strap to suspension. The frame slots are there for tying down. I have used the nets on trailers with zero concern.

Redbird

Wheel nets and tracks from Mac's are the best IMHO! That is what I had on my open trailer.

Tiger Joe

I like wheel straps, esp on low cars. I just towed a car 200 miles last Saturday, I used 4 wheel straps. No issues. Sometimes if the wheel straps don’t pull front/rear enough I will throw a strap or two on to stop the car from rocking.