65-StingRay

There's been a few wheel alignment threads lately. In 2014 I had manual steering and replaced my old manual steering box with a Borgeson power steering unit. Borgeson recommended going to the fast holes in the steering knuckle from the rear (slow) holes. One reason by them was for quicker steering response when turning the steering wheel - and that is true. However, there has been talk on the forum about not using the fast holes but going back to the slow holes for better steering feel. So about 14 days ago I had my wheels re-aligned using the slow holes instead of the fast holes. Here is what I noticed upon driving these last 14 days. First, my right full turn no longer rubs slightly on wheel well. The left full turn never rubbed. So now have clearance on both tires. Second, I like the better steering feel in the wheel much better. The slightly firmer feel in the steering wheel, as well as, not darting when turning the wheel slightly. Third, caster has increased slightly because of this move to the slow holes. I should add this as well, I am using Speed Direct aluminum upper control arms which provides much needed extra caster numbers. Lower control arms are stock. Many guys have notched their upper control arms for more caster.



Here are my two alignment spec sheets from past to present. Car was aligned at the same shop both times. You can see my caster has increased with the slow holes vs. the fast holes.

1st alignment in 2014:


Recent alignment April 22/2023.

With the slow holes the amount of shims used has been reduced.
Driver's side:


One shim in the rear portion and zero at the front.

3 shims on the front and 3 shims in rear of different size.

If you take your hand off the wheel at any speed it tracks real straight. On turns the steering wheel returns to center with very little effort.
The rear tires were bought new two years ago and are taller and wider than the old wheels as well as being drag radials. When I put these on the car it sat with the wheels angled in at the top and out at the bottom. At speed it did not give a feeling of confidence in the turns. In fact it felt like a whole lot less control with the back end wanting to kick out depending on which way you were turning. All those problems are now solved. It tracks straight - even in roads with deep ruts from 18 wheelers - handles high speed corners with aplomb. I'm very happy with the way the alignment turned out and I'm glad I went to the slow holes from the fast holes.
65-StingRay, Wayne

torinodude59

Thanks for posting your results, i also have the borgeson steering and it is way too touchy, bought the restrictor valve for it and could not keep it from leaking so put the original valve back in and i have been thinking of moving my tir rods to the manual steering location. Now i just need to find a good alignment shop in michigan.

jim lockwood

I don't see any connection between the location of the tie rod ends in the steering arms and caster. At most, after moving the tie rod ends from one pair of holes to the other, all you should have needed to do was to adjust toe.

Please explain.

65-StingRay

Jim I guess in my zeal to have my alignment better from past to present I made it sound in my thread that the slow holes improved the caster. The wheel alignment as a whole improved my caster. The most important part for anyone that's had a tire rub at full turn understands when that problem goes away that's a good victory. As I mentioned the complete steering experience is improved. I don't dart in and out of traffic anymore but I do like a spirited drive on the open road. This summer I'm going to try and get a couple of track days in but just in the 1/4 mile. Again sorry if I misled anyone.
65-StingRay, Wayne

belgiumbarry

correct Jim , those steering holes have nothing to do with caster. Only toe that has to be dialed in after changing .
I assume we may here question the results of those two alignment shops , 2014 versus 2023.
I have seen here ( local ) that aren't taking it seriously also ...just crap buziness , so doing it now myself. I sure won't let them thouch my C2 !

On the other hand , it take hours to adjust alignment , test drive, measure again/adjust .... who would pay those shops for that ?

karkrafter

from experience, leave it in the manual steering holes, becomes too twitchy.

also add as much caster as possible. they make a arm bushing rods to achieve this or better yet, take your factory rods off and slot the holes 1/4 inch [don't think there is room for more]. If you slot all four holes exactly the same amount [machinist] you won't even need to have it realigned as the only thing you will be doing is adding castor.