Floppy Rear View Mirror
#2
Tether Man
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sbsurfer (03-16-2023)
#3
Or instead of what the PDF suggests (I'm personally not a fan of grinding off and taping the plate to screw it down when you may not have to), after you get the mirror apart as instructed, put the mirror base face up supported by blocks of wood so you can hammer on the rivets with a punch which should tighten it up nicely.
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CCrane65 (02-17-2024)
#4
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Or instead of what the PDF suggests (I'm personally not a fan of grinding off and taping the plate to screw it down when you may not have to), after you get the mirror apart as instructed, put the mirror base face up supported by blocks of wood so you can hammer on the rivets with a punch which should tighten it up nicely.
One thing to remember if you choose to drill and use a small self taping screw.......Don't drill through the back of the mirror! I would never do that!!!
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mblake101 (03-17-2023)
#5
Instructor
I just wish the camera had a "zoom" setting so I could get a better view of who (think: highway patrol) is coming up behind me...
#6
Melting Slicks
"(I'm personally not a fan of grinding off and taping the plate to screw it down when you may not have to"
In my case there was not enough metal left to re-peen the stud over the metal "spring" plate hence the drilling and tapping.
Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of the "before" condition.
DZ
In my case there was not enough metal left to re-peen the stud over the metal "spring" plate hence the drilling and tapping.
Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of the "before" condition.
DZ
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59BlueSilver (02-16-2024)
#7
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If just mildly loose, I've put a few drops of loctite into the socket from the outside and let it dry. Then "break it free" by twisting. The loctite fills the gap and has lasted for many years so far.
JIM
JIM
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carl3989 (02-16-2024)
#8
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I tried peening the existing studs over the spring to draw it back down, but it didn't last long. I then tried to put pieces of a thin feeler gauge under the head of the stud, but couldn't get them in. Ended up carefully drilling and tapping per the paper.
I had tried LocTite and Super Glue, with short term luck also. May not be doing it right.
I had tried LocTite and Super Glue, with short term luck also. May not be doing it right.
#9
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I tried peening the existing studs over the spring to draw it back down, but it didn't last long. I then tried to put pieces of a thin feeler gauge under the head of the stud, but couldn't get them in. Ended up carefully drilling and tapping per the paper.
I had tried LocTite and Super Glue, with short term luck also. May not be doing it right.
I had tried LocTite and Super Glue, with short term luck also. May not be doing it right.
I fixed the mirror on my '69 this way. I took a #10 washer, cut a slice out of it, and ground it down on the cut side so it was kinda sharp. I was then able to wedge it under the rivet on top of the spring. It's held up for about five years so far.
#10
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I followed DZ’s paper except drilled both rivets out, coarse sanded the ball and put the clip onto a vise and gave it a blow or two to apply more force against the ball. Used self taping screws on assembly and locktite. It’s really stiff and has been that way for 6 years now.