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Let me start with apologizing for the post I started and then deleted. I felt like I put too much out there and confused people. I was inspired by a post I read of a gentleman who got a 67’ from his brother after he passed and I wanted to share my similar story.
My father sadly passed away, but with some luck and grace, I’ve come to own his 67’ 427 L36! My dad purchased it from a gentleman who did a complete restore from the ground up and with matching numbers. Sadly my Dad never drove it and it sat in the garage under a cover since the early 90’s.
Now I’m receiving the car and my family and I are ecstatic to welcome her into the family. I don’t intend to sell it, but get her running again and drive it on Sundays with my wife and kids. I want my kids to be inspired like I was for so many years.
Here are some pictures of it after sitting for 30 years with a cover on her. It needs new radial tires, a thorough washing, and some TLC, but after I get the tank cleaned and engine ready, she should be ready to run. Let the good times roll.
Please if you have advice, I’m happy to take it. I have a list of things to do before I first try turning the key.
I look forward to the many conversations and advice from you all.
Thoroughly check the brakes and fluid - 30 years is a long time for regular DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Pull the master cylinder cap to see what the fluid reservoirs look like as to sediment or jelly - and the color of the fluid. Purple would be silicone DOT 5 fluid that has a much, much longer life than 3 or 4. You should be able to clearly see the bottom of the reservoir and the piston ports through the fluid. After that pull each wheel and inspect all around the calipers, the caliper pistons & seals behind each brake pad, and the line fittings. What you don't want to see is fluid stained cast iron, wet surfaces, or fluid drips. If all appears OK in those regards, time to flush the fluid by suctioning out the reservoirs as much as possible and pouring in new, just-unsealed fluid and bleed the systems until new fluid appears. There's a bit more to it but that's the highlights.
Welcome aboard. Sorry about your dad but glad you got the car and can make some memories with your kids. I got mine the same way unfortunately. My 67 was a train wreck but yours appears to be in great shape. Hopefully all you will need are fluid changes. Keep us updated on your progression.
Your dad bought a beauty, with the most livable 427 to boot! Make it safe and enjoy the heck out of it. Goodwood Green was the most popular color in 1967 but nearly all have turned red over the years. Mine is still the same color combo as yours. Congrats!
Thoroughly check the brakes and fluid - 30 years is a long time for regular DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Pull the master cylinder cap to see what the fluid reservoirs look like as to sediment or jelly - and the color of the fluid. Purple would be silicone DOT 5 fluid that has a much, much longer life than 3 or 4. You should be able to clearly see the bottom of the reservoir and the piston ports through the fluid. After that pull each wheel and inspect all around the calipers, the caliper pistons & seals behind each brake pad, and the line fittings. What you don't want to see is fluid stained cast iron, wet surfaces, or fluid drips. If all appears OK in those regards, time to flush the fluid by suctioning out the reservoirs as much as possible and pouring in new, just-unsealed fluid and bleed the systems until new fluid appears. There's a bit more to it but that's the highlights.
When the car was picked up my friend said the brakes went straight to the floor, so I know I have a brake job to do. The emergency brake still worked though.
I plan to drop the fuel tank and inspect it. Then blow the fuel lines clean and finally put new fresh gas in there.
What I’m not sure about is whether to pull the engine heads or not. I will first try turning the engine by hand and seeing if I get resistance. I’ll definitely drain and put fresh oil in there, along with changing the filter.
I thought of pulling the plugs and inspecting them, but I figured they should be ok, but it’s not a big expense to buy new ones.
I’ll also buy new radial redline tires and probably a new white top. The top has been in the stowed position for 30 years, I’m sure it’ll be in bad shape.
I’ll post more once the car arrives and I inspect it.
Sorry for the loss of your Dad. I'm sure he'd be happy knowing how excited you are to have and enjoy his car.
Thank you. I grew up with him always buying and selling motorcycles and cars. At one time we had this 67’, 74’ (454), 66’, and a 94 at our house. He quickly sold the 66’ and later sold the 92, but he held on to the 74’ for awhile. In the end he just had the 67’.
My first car was a 81 Trans Am with a bird on the hood. It wasn’t fast but boy it was in mint condition and looked mean! He and I also stripped and painted a 81’ pickup truck together. We spent lots of time when I was in High School working on cars together. I know somehow he had a hand in me getting his car and I intend to make his dream of driving it become a reality.
Cheers.
Your dad bought a beauty, with the most livable 427 to boot! Make it safe and enjoy the heck out of it. Goodwood Green was the most popular color in 1967 but nearly all have turned red over the years. Mine is still the same color combo as yours. Congrats!
Thanks! I love the color, it looks very classic. He had a blue on blue 66’, but I really like this one. It’ll be a Sunday driver, something my entire family can enjoy, and one day I’ll pass it down to my kids.
Pull the plugs…. Easy to do and will make turning the engine over by hand easier…
you might want to squirt some sort of upper cylinder lube into the cylinders, thru the spark plug holes, before you try to turn it by hand.
before You drop the tank, you can look into the fill neck…. I think you can also remove the sender unit without removing the tank…
Mine sat for 7-8 years, so I decided to replace ALL the hoses (water pump leaked, so I drained all the water anyway). I’d replace the thermostat and flush out the radiator too…
repacked front wheel bearings while you are working on the brakes…
Pull the plugs…. Easy to do and will make turning the engine over by hand easier…
you might want to squirt some sort of upper cylinder lube into the cylinders, thru the spark plug holes, before you try to turn it by hand.
before You drop the tank, you can look into the fill neck…. I think you can also remove the sender unit without removing the tank…
Mine sat for 7-8 years, so I decided to replace ALL the hoses (water pump leaked, so I drained all the water anyway). I’d replace the thermostat and flush out the radiator too…
repacked front wheel bearings while you are working on the brakes…
probably should clean and @rebuild” the carb,
I’ll consider replacing all the hoses. I was going to drain and refill the coolant, but I didn’t think to replace the thermostat, good idea.
When I pull the plugs I’ll pour some mystery oil down the holes. My question is how much? 4-6 ounces for each cylinder?
The carb! Yes I’ll add that to my list too. Hopefully I get it all done by the start of summer.
First question:
If the engine is clean and the entire car was rebuilt 32 years ago and it hasn’t run ever since, should I first just try cleaning the carb vs rebuilding it? I’m sure it’s gummed up from gas after 32 years but I would think it’s still good to go if I clean it.
Second question:
Original Coker tires that are 4 ply poly or radials that look like OE with the red stripe?
I only intend to drive the car once a week maximum and I don’t intend to hit rod it much, but the roads around her have lots of pot holes. I thought all tires would be radials now, but after reading on Cokertire.com, I see they make the actual OE tires. The car is all matching so I feel inclined to buy the OE’s. Thoughts?
I wouldn't jump the gun on the convertible top. My 65 has the original top. It's not perfect but the wrinkles come out when it is up. Most of my car friends say to leave it alone. On the carb ussue, you might have lucked out and all the old gas evaporated 30 years ago. As lifetime mechanics say, If It ain't broke don't fix it.
Sorry for the loss of your dad. Consider Diamondback in Conway, SC for tires. They have great tires that they install white, red, gold and blue stripes on.
First question: should I first just try cleaning the carb vs rebuilding it?
Second question: Coker tires that are 4 ply poly or radials that look like OE with the red stripe??
“Cleaning” the carb, can’t clean the internal passages without some disassembly. “Rebuilt” is typically just replacing gaskets (after cleaning) and “rubber” parts such as accelerator pump, needle and seat and power valve. But trying it as-is probably won’t hurt. Just make sure you have a fire extinguisher ready.
Tires: There has been a lot of negative talk about Coker’s, and radials will drive nicer. But if Coker’s were all bad, they’d be out of business.
I recall they are similarly priced.
Thanks for the advice on the carb and tires. When the time comes, maybe I’ll just try starting it with a fire extinguisher close by. If it seems like it isn’t getting fuel, then I’ll look at rebuilding it.
I’m still undecided on the tires. I know radials are the best, and I’ll probably go with those, mostly because I don’t intend to sell the car. If I want to sell it or decide to put her in a car show, then I’ll consider getting some Coker OE tires. I’m not sure if a judge would knock the car down because it doesn’t have OE tires, but radials that look OE.
I would get the brake system rebuilt ( new rubber flex lines, flush lines, with S/S sleave calipers) next drop the gas tank and inspect for rust. any signs of rust just throw away and buy a new tank from quanta, flush the main line, replace rubber lines, get the carb off and gone over by someone who knows what they are doing ( Phil at Custom rebuilt carbs, etc). make sure the motor is free by turning over by hand.
for tires if you want red line radials I would look into Diamond back
03-02-2023, 09:32 PM
Father’s 67, take 2
