When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Before your first attempt at firing it up, I'd suggest pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill using the appropriate tool.
You can pull the valve covers and insure that oil is getting everywhere it should be.
Before your first attempt at firing it up, I'd suggest pulling the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill using the appropriate tool.
You can pull the valve covers and insure that oil is getting everywhere it should be.
My friend just spent 4-5 years rebuilding a 69 Camaro and suggested the same thing. He has the tool to do it too, so he will assist me. Thanks.
Do you know if the gas tank is original never removed? If so, that is the most valuable item on the car is the tank sticker on top on the left side. If you are not dropping the tank, pull the rubber seal at the gas fill and see if you can see the sticker. If it's present, drop the tank, photograph it then cover it and seal it with some durable plastic film or a suitable product. Some people remove the sticker, but that depends on the condition. Dennis
Do you know if the gas tank is original never removed? If so, that is the most valuable item on the car is the tank sticker on top on the left side. If you are not dropping the tank, pull the rubber seal at the gas fill and see if you can see the sticker. If it's present, drop the tank, photograph it then cover it and seal it with some durable plastic film or a suitable product. Some people remove the sticker, but that depends on the condition. Dennis
Dennis,
Unfortunately when the car was restored in 1990, they dropped the gas tank and I believe they took the sticker off the tank and put it in a binder with all the other documentation, paperwork, and photos of the restore. My dad had all the paperwork, but after his death my stepmother wasn’t able to find it, or give it to me with the car. I don’t know which one is correct, but it’s a sore subject, and either way I’m without all the documentation.
I will still look for it once the car arrives tomorrow. The good news is, I was able to contact the father and son (Corvette of America Unlimited) who restored the car. He remembered a lot about the car, but said they gave everything to my dad.
He said the documentation is 20-25% of the cars worth. I wish I had it.
I’ll consider replacing all the hoses. I was going to drain and refill the coolant, but I didn’t think to replace the thermostat, good idea.
When I pull the plugs I’ll pour some mystery oil down the holes. My question is how much? 4-6 ounces for each cylinder?
Thermostat may be just fine. Test by dropping into 190-210°F water and see that it begins moving and opens a fair bit. It should be marked as to its opening temp but if it's not marked 180°F then perhaps replace it outright – 180°F is the original Chevrolet recommendation. A lot of us like the Robertshaw style:
4-6 oz of oil is way too much - you would likely damage the combustion chamber and piston rods with that much as it won't compress like air does and can hydrostatically lock the engine. All you want is a tablespoon or two at most – I'd use 10w-30 or 40 oil*. Use an oil can with squirter pump (2-3 squirts) and aim it towards the back wall of the cylinder. You want it to run down the wall and onto the top ring using gravity. This bit of oil will directly lubricate the ring against the cylinder wall prior to the engine starting up.
*The topic of engine oils is a rich and opinionated one - do a forum search. High ZDDP is a must for our engines but brand is more open to argument.
Originally Posted by Togaf16
Second question:
Original Coker tires that are 4 ply poly or radials that look like OE with the red stripe?
I only intend to drive the car once a week maximum and I don’t intend to hit rod it much, but the roads around her have lots of pot holes. I thought all tires would be radials now, but after reading on Cokertire.com, I see they make the actual OE tires. The car is all matching so I feel inclined to buy the OE’s. Thoughts?
If you plan on driving the car, get the radial design. Radials provide better handling, wet traction, and ride. If you ever have the car judged, you'll get a point deduction but so will restoration bias-ply tires - though to varying degrees. Get the radials and then get bias-plies on a second set of wheels if you get into serious judging.
Originally Posted by Togaf16
What I’m not sure about is whether to pull the engine heads or not. I will first try turning the engine by hand and seeing if I get resistance. I’ll definitely drain and put fresh oil in there, along with changing the filter.
I thought of pulling the plugs and inspecting them, but I figured they should be ok, but it’s not a big expense to buy new ones.
Do not pull the heads unless you see outward signs of damaged valve train or a blown head gasket. Pull the plugs, inspect, and regap. You could also pick up an inexpensive boroscope that connects to a smart phone. With this you can do a bit of inspection of the piston tops and cylinder walls looking for damage or heavy scoring.
Car arrived! Some rust and oxidation on the chrome front and rear bumpers but something I think will clean up easily. There is a slight oil leak where the transmission meets the engine. I’m guessing the seals were dry and then cracked when the car was rolling on and off the car carrier.
I found a number on the engine block but I’m not sure yet what it means. I’ll have to dig in my books. The last two digits you can’t make out in the photo but they are 84. Last 2 digits are 84. Hard to read. I am not sure why they aren’t as prominent as the others.
T0930IL is Tonawanda New York engine assembly plant (all BB were built there) Sept 30 IL is 427-390 4 barrel carb 4 speed. 70102384 is the car vin . the cars build date is Oct 27, 1966.
the other cast date you showed looks like the intake. the block cast date is in front of the starter above the oil pan rail
T0930IL is Tonawanda New York engine assembly plant (all BB were built there) Sept 30 IL is 427-390 4 barrel carb 4 speed. 70102384 is the car vin . the cars build date is Oct 27, 1966.
the other cast date you showed looks like the intake. the block cast date is in front of the starter above the oil pan rail
Wow thanks for the quick reply. So I have to get under the car to get the Engine cast number?
My dad and the original restorer both said it’s matching numbers. What are the most important numbers to match up? I don’t have the original documentation, so I have to start from scratch. I am praying my stepmother decides to find and send me the documentation.
well is 0102384 the last digits of the cars vin number? show picturers of the trim tag and vin tag that is found under the glove box. the block casting number is found on the drivers side rear block flange where the bell housing meets. the last three digits should be 351. the casting date is by the starter, and yes your need to go under to find it. and frankly it can be hard to read, and will be upside down when your on the ground
and note it looks like it cleaned up very well, and to get it road worthy it will be fairly simple after all its just an old chevy
My dad when he was alive and the original restorer said it’s numbers matching. What are the most important numbers to match up? I don’t have the original documentation, so I have to start from scratch. I am praying my stepmother decides to find and send me the documentation.
"Numbers matching" is a pretty loose term that usually just implies that the partial VIN sequence on the block's stamp pad matches the car's VIN on the tag under the glove box. However, you then also have the block casting number that Nowhere Man mentioned should end in 351 located on the top rear flange of the block at the firewall. Additionally, you then have the block casting date located on the side of the block. All three of these numbers must align for it to more than likely be the original block to the car. The casting date of the block is generally a day or two to a week prior to the engine's assembly date (T0930) which is generally a few days to a couple weeks prior to the car's assembly date – NCRS allows a much larger gap (up to 6 months) between these two.
There are certainly cars with high-dollar engine options that lost their original blocks but have been recreated by restamping a block with the appropriate casting # and date. Bottom line is that there is just about a 0% certainty that any engine is guaranteed, 100%, to be the original block. Yours likely is, but...
"Numbers matching" is a pretty loose term that usually just implies that the partial VIN sequence on the block's stamp pad matches the car's VIN on the tag under the glove box. However, you then also have the block casting number that Nowhere Man mentioned should end in 351 located on the top rear flange of the block at the firewall. Additionally, you then have the block casting date located on the side of the block. All three of these numbers must align for it to more than likely be the original block to the car. The casting date of the block is generally a day or two to a week prior to the engine's assembly date (T0930) which is generally a few days to a couple weeks prior to the car's assembly date – NCRS allows a much larger gap (up to 6 months) between these two.
There are certainly cars with high-dollar engine options that lost their original blocks but have been recreated by restamping a block with the appropriate casting # and date. Bottom line is that there is just about a 0% certainty that any engine is guaranteed, 100%, to be the original block. Yours likely is, but...
Thanks for that explanation. That will help me narrow my search on what I am liking for. So far the first number on the engine match the VIN, now I just have to inspect the other two sets of numbers.
Now I have to buy a lift that will fit in my garage. Any suggestions?
03-03-2023, 02:19 PM
Dennis
