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Putting new clutch pressure plate throw out bearing. Has any body put one in. What does it require and how hard. Putting in heavy duty clutch and left leg can’t handle a lot of pressure.67 coup
Unless you are doing burn outs every week
do yourself a favor and replace broken or damaged factory parts
with the same good quality parts
I am very happy with my new LUK clutch components behind my
new ZZ6 engine
I would replace their mechanical throwout bearing with a better quality one
I'll skip the science and go right to the bottom line. Regardless of the mechanism between your foot and the bearing that pushes on the pressure plate, you have two choices. You can have a lighter pushing force but with a longer travel to disengage the clutch, or you can have a shorter travel with a heavier pushing force. A mechanical clutch linkage and TOB can be adjusted to feel the same as a hydraulic setup. The downside with the hydraulic TOB is that it has to be adjusted very precisely before you close up the bellhousing AND there needs to be an adjustable stop on the clutch pedal to prevent it from being over extended. If it were mine, I'd keep a stock type TOB setup.
HYD TO is easy to set up and you get light pedal pressure.
Very simple to measure and set up.
I understand the TO bearing part of the hydraulic set up, but how do you connect the OE pedal to a master cylinder? Does someone have some part numbers that work?
I understand the TO bearing part of the hydraulic set up, but how do you connect the OE pedal to a master cylinder? Do someone have some part numbers that work?
Each Manufacturer is slightly different.
This is from Bowler. You cna check Sillver Sort Transmissions too.
Isn't there also firewall fiberglass reinforcement that's needed when you go with a hydraulic clutch? I briefly looked in to it when I installed an LS3, but decided to stick with mechanical TOB, so I don't remember all the details of a hydraulic TOB. As @kellsdad said, you can get a light feel with a mechanical clutch. I'd go that route and just keep things simple.
Looks like Modern Driveline has a C2 specific master cylinder $300. Is anyone using it? What are you guys using for a master and TO bearing/slave that you think works well. I'm collecting parts for a auto to manual swap. So far I have pedals, a TKO600, and bell housing.
You might look into a more aggressive lining but with a lighter pressure plate...like the dual friction or metallic disc setups if you need a lot of holding pressure with light pedal. My full out racing clutch can be pushed with a couple of fingers.
I added a hyd setup to mine because I needed the real estate where the cross shaft went for turbo mounting. I used a McLeod setup for a Camaro and modified the bracket that attaches it to the brake master cylinder studs. I like that arrangement a lot better than mounting it to the fiberglass floor.
[QUOTE=427Hotrod;I added a hyd setup to mine because I needed the real estate where the cross shaft went for turbo mounting.
JIM[/QUOTE]
My 5.3 conversion won't allow mechanical either because of exhaust manifolds. I have a C4 six-speed that uses a slave mounted externally pushing a clutch fork, will look into that. The motor was dyno tuned and makes 325HP, I'm pretty easy on clutches and use the car several times a week. I just want good quality street stuff. Appreciate any info on what work well. Bill
I did something similar to 427Hotrod. My '62 has a '94 Camaro T-56 transmission that uses an external clutch slave cylinder. I used the stock clutch pedal assembly and mounted the master on the firewall, reinforcement was necessary. I suppose that the internal slave cylinders are of better quality now, but I built this car 20 years ago and at that time I was warned that the internal hydraulic slaves were prone to leakage.
I did something similar to 427Hotrod. My '62 has a '94 Camaro T-56 transmission that uses an external clutch slave cylinder. I used the stock clutch pedal assembly and mounted the master on the firewall, reinforcement was necessary. I suppose that the internal slave cylinders are of better quality now, but I built this car 20 years ago and at that time I was warned that the internal hydraulic slaves were prone to leakage.
What master did you use? I assume it still works well. Bill
My 5.3 conversion won't allow mechanical either because of exhaust manifolds. I have a C4 six-speed that uses a slave mounted externally pushing a clutch fork, will look into that. The motor was dyno tuned and makes 325HP, I'm pretty easy on clutches and use the car several times a week. I just want good quality street stuff. Appreciate any info on what work well. Bill
325 HP is pretty mild. Good stock stuff will handle it...or a Mcleod or Centerforce dual friction style. They have lower pressure and increased holding power.
Having the external slave makes things easier to mess with. As i said..I modified the Mcleod bracket and mounted my master and attached it to stock pedal. Not too hard and works fine.
02-26-2023, 03:55 PM
HYD throw out
