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[C1] Block stamps - real or restamp?

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Old 02-12-2023, 06:05 AM
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2JHead
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Default Block stamps - real or restamp?

Dear forum,

First post, jumping straight into it. I have a complete engine at hand, complete with the Rochester FI setup. Engine is running. FI setup looks correct. I am not sure about these block stampings though. Would love to hear your opinion. Real or restamp?

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02-12-2023, 08:51 AM
jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by 66jack
The '6' and '9' seems suspect...I would think they would use the same 'style' stamp...
Wasn't it the case that the engine configuration stamp was done at the engine plant while the VIN derivative was applied at St. Louis? If so, then the style of stamps used could vary greatly.
Old 02-12-2023, 07:17 AM
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65GGvert
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Well the vin birthday for the car was around Nov 8 and the engine build shows Sept 11, so it’s not impossible. RF is FI , manual so again,,,,
Maybe some paint thinner to clean paint off pad carefully and take close pictures. Also cast date on block might help.
Old 02-12-2023, 07:22 AM
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Clean the paint off with a pain solvent and a rag only, then repost that picture.....As long as the "Numbers Match" lets see what's under the paint....

Good Luck!
Old 02-12-2023, 08:41 AM
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66jack
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The '6' and '9' seems suspect...I would think they would use the same 'style' stamp...
Old 02-12-2023, 08:51 AM
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jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by 66jack
The '6' and '9' seems suspect...I would think they would use the same 'style' stamp...
Wasn't it the case that the engine configuration stamp was done at the engine plant while the VIN derivative was applied at St. Louis? If so, then the style of stamps used could vary greatly.
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Old 02-12-2023, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
Wasn't it the case that the engine configuration stamp was done at the engine plant while the VIN derivative was applied at St. Louis? If so, then the style of stamps used could vary greatly.
correct
Old 02-12-2023, 09:06 AM
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It may be my imagination, but under high magnification it appears that there may be some broach marks under that paint. I’d proceed very slowly and carefully with the paint remover and a soft rag.
Old 02-12-2023, 09:14 AM
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Looks OEM from here, pending careful removal of the paint from the stamp pad (using non-mechanical means only).

Evidence of factory broach marks on the stamp pad would lead to solid conclusions validating the stamp as OEM.

Use only solvent and non-abrasive means or you'll risk obliterating the broach marks.
Old 02-12-2023, 04:02 PM
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While the configuration looks correct, am I the only one that thinks the "RF" is at a slight angle to the rest of the engine stamp? This normally isn't the case when stamping with a gang holder. It's not real uncommon to see a digit stamped at Flint, to be misaligned by being slightly higher or lower, but not trailing off at an angle. To me, the "II" seem to be stamped harder or deeper, then the rest of the digits too.

Early Tonawanda big blocks often had the letter suffix code stamped separate, and those misaligned with the plant code and date. Flint small blocks usually had the suffix code stamped with the plant and date, and more uniform with the rest of the stamping.

I'm not saying it is a restamp, but the apparent lack of broach marks, and the positioning of the RF, are enough to make me question the stamp. It really would help to know what the pad looks like under the paint.

If it was a 62 327/300, I probably wouldn't question it, but a fuelie always has to be looked at with a questioning eye.

Welcome to the Forum!

435beast seems to have the same doubts as me. It looks like he was posting while I was typing.
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Old 02-12-2023, 04:06 PM
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The problem is there was too many passenger car engines from 61-64 that use the single letter R as the suffix code and had no vin stamp. Its rather easy to add the one letter you need and a vin stamp and pass it off
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Old 02-12-2023, 05:24 PM
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-- when the pad is painted, all bets are off..
-- before you even look at the numbers, the edge/corners of the pad is too sharp and doesn't look 60 some odd years old, suggesting the top of the cylinder case has been shaved.
-- the casting date, within a reasonable range of the car's birthday, of the engine is also critical.. as well as the casting code.
-- and finally check the authentication of the FI unit also. And dates of the heads.
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Old 02-12-2023, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
The problem is there was too many passenger car engines from 61-64 that use the single letter R as the suffix code and had no vin stamp. Its rather easy to add the one letter you need and a vin stamp and pass it off
Assuming you can find one with the proper casting date range, which these days is not likely to be easy.
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Old 02-12-2023, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettrocious
Assuming you can find one with the proper casting date range, which these days is not likely to be easy.
30-40 years ago when restamping was the rage I would think it was easier to find
Old 02-12-2023, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
Wasn't it the case that the engine configuration stamp was done at the engine plant while the VIN derivative was applied at St. Louis? .
True, except in ‘65 (and maybe 64) as the fuel injection suffix was not stamped at Flint in the date gang stamp, as the engine plant didn’t know whether it would have transistor ignition, so the assembly plant added the HG or HN suffix.
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Old 02-12-2023, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettrocious
True, except in ‘65 (and maybe 64) as the fuel injection suffix was not stamped at Flint in the date gang stamp, as the engine plant didn’t know whether it would have transistor ignition, so the assembly plant added the HG or HN suffix.
I thought Flint installed the dist?
Old 02-12-2023, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
I thought Flint installed the dist?
A good question. I was told a long time ago that the reason for the commonly misaligned suffix letters on documented-real 65 L84 engines was that the suffix couldn’t be stamped until they knew what car the motor was going in. I didn’t question it then, but your comment about the dizzy certainly piques my interest. Maybe they made them both ways at Flint and selected the proper iteration at St Louis and there’s some other reason for the crooked letters.
Old 02-12-2023, 09:58 PM
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Restamp. What a real pad looks like.

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Old 02-12-2023, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mjv1953
Restamp. What a real pad looks like.
It may very well be "real" but it looks like they used two different Zeros in the vin. Many variables were possible
Old 02-12-2023, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mjv1953
Restamp. What a real pad looks like.
The F is bigger than the R on that “real” one.
Old 02-13-2023, 12:32 AM
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More real pad 1963 fuelie pictures


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