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Sorry, Jim…… can you show me where you’re pouring the gas into the fuel bowl? The side vent where the pipe goes to the air cleaner? (‘63
For me, the easiest way to add fuel to the bowl is to do so through a vent in the top of the bowl.
Refer to the picture below.
Remove the upper fuel meter bracket.... 4 screws + 1/4" bolt. This will expose the vent opening. Pour about a half cup of fuel thru this vent then reattach the bracket.
NOTE: Those four screws thread into soft pot metal. Don't go nuts tightening them. Just flatten the split washers and go a tiny amount more. Ditto for the 1/4" bolt.
Thank you Jim. My first FI and I’m learning about this system a little at a time. Don’t worry I’ll take it easy on the screws.
I hesitate to do this off the engine because I do have a solenoid and spraying fuel and a stray 12 volt spark makes me a little uneasy.
How about mounted on the engine and a few seconds with the drill?
Thanks for the links concerning crankcase ventilation.
This is one of the last things I have to sort out before starting this engine and then putting it back in the car.
Not crazy about drilling a big hole in my valve cover but may come down to that and I could live with it.
NOT gonna drill the China wall nor the intake manifold so that pretty much leaves the valve cover as my option.
This vent has gotten good reviews on Summit so maybe one of these at the firewall end of the v/cover and then a hose from there to the pvc on the plenum. What do the collective minds think?
Thank you Jim. My first FI and I’m learning about this system a little at a time. Don’t worry I’ll take it easy on the screws.
I hesitate to do this off the engine because I do have a solenoid and spraying fuel and a stray 12 volt spark makes me a little uneasy.
How about mounted on the engine and a few seconds with the drill?
I understand your concern. I really, really do. In spite of that I still recommend the procedure I've outlined. I do it on every unit which lands on my work bench. I don't have any singed eyebrows yet.
Keep in mind that you won't get a spark until and unless you break an electrical connection, and at 12V and low current, usually not even then.
By doing this on your bench, you'll see the onset of fuel flow and you can stop instantly. On your engine, you'll just be guessing at how long to spin the pump. I prefer to know.
With regard to your commendable sense of caution, try this: If your anti-siphon valve is plumbed correctly, it can be forced open with sufficient fuel pressure. So, leave it powered off, but spin the drill motor / pump cable / pump anyway. Do it at high speed. If you are lucky, doing this will over-power the solenoid valve and you will see some fuel exiting the nozzles. If you aren't lucky, power up the solenoid valve and try again.
OK, Jim, I trust you....never steered me wrong yet! I'll do that later this week, put it on the motor and fire this sucker up. Currently waiting on some AN fittings to plumb the small fuel cell. Don't know why they (Chinese) couldn't have made this tank a little more user friendly for us country boys...
Will keep everyone posted.....new motor, new run stand....what could go wrong !?!?
Elevate the unit by a couple of inches, put a half cup or so of fuel in the fuel bowl, apply 12V to the antisiphon solenoid valve (if so equipped), and spin the pump via a pump cable chucked in a drill motor.
Stop when you see fuel coming out of the nozzles.
Next, install the FI and start the engine. It should light off very quickly.
Jim Lockwood…….thanks for the info regarding the priming of this FI unit. Was bone dry and I wanted a quick start.
Like you said it was pretty easy process
That’s one sweet looking s/b the F.I. Unit looks great gonna look really good under that 57, I know you have a pre-checklist just don’t forget that open oil line port in the rear of manifold..
Just fired (2 cycles with the key) up my 65 F.I unit up last week WOW what a feeling, love how they jump right up on fast idle no stutter, instant you are gonna love it my first F.I. after 2-3 years of collecting all the necessary parts & getting it back from the restoration shop had a lot of input from people on the forum (thanks Jim L) & John D. F.I. Guy in Harrisburg.
Keep us posted all the best, again 1 sweet looking assembly..
Fuel line is done. Primed it today and will start tomorrow. Couple issues to work out but close now
I'd prefer to see you prime the FI, install it, and start the engine rather than waiting a day. Waiting overnight to start increases the possibility of a little bit of engine cranking before it lights off.
Several vendors sell ribbed c2 valve covers with a hole in the inboard vertical wall for venting with a breather grommet. You can’t see the vent readily when installed. They work well. They are very expensive at some vendors, so shop around..
Thanx, Charlie……. Glad you got yur FI going and doing well for you. I know where you’re coming from. Jim L or Tom Parsons ( forget which) stated that a well tuned FI was “a thing of beauty”!
Regarding the fitting at the rear of this engine I just hooked up the oil pressure gauge on the run stand this aft noon. Picked up the AN fuel line this eve so about ready to light this up. We’ll see!
Unfortunately those valve covers are too tall. The air meter will not clear i dont believe
Correct…… another thing, STOCK valve covers won’t fit either with some after market heads. Ask me how I know!! Take a look at the divot in the left valve cover
heads.
Jerry I couldn’t help but notice where the current vac can is sitting right now & distributor window? If that engine as it sits right now was installed in my 65 C2 the vac can would be on top of my ignition coil I would have to rotate the distributor way right CCW/advance for the vac can to clear the coil/bracket assy.?
Im not looking to start a controversy nor am I knocking what you are doing just a little confused at what I’m seeing, I‘m just confused at where your distributor is currently sitting it looks way retarded vs my install?
Sooo I’m curious where do you have #1 plug wire on your distributor are you using the tower just right of the cap window (sitting in the car), or are you using other position/tower for #1..
I know this is probably not your first rodeo installing distributors etc. just caught my eye?
here’s a pic (65 327/365) of where my vac can & distributor window wound up after my install I’m currently running about 10deg. Base advance.
my cap window is almost perpendicular as it sits in the car currently.
My vac can is almost touching my coil at approx. 10deg.advance I could probably go for more advance that would move it away from the coil but I want to run it on the street first & assure all is quiet no detonation etc, I feel way safe with just 10deg. for now:-)
Please I hope you don’t think Im raining on your parade by no means I’m digging everything your doing (I sold a 55 chevy before buying my C2:-)..
Chalie
11-28-2022, 08:55 AM
