TJ63Vette

Well after 25 years of sitting I have decided to start this project. I basically bought a Corvette in a box or several boxes. The frame had been modified with a solid axle 12 bolt and 4 link suspension, the original engine block disassembled and most components lost or not usable, and it has the small bearing early BW T10 CR 4 spd.

Progress so far includes purchase of a good condition original 63 frame with mostly stock suspension. The differential was swapped at some time for an AU 3.36 HD axle differential 65-70 unit.

Made the pilgrimage to Carlisle last weekend and spoke with Dan at Van Steel and just placed and order for basically everything on the chassis. Decided to convert to the Wilwood disc brakes front and back. Went with the offset trailing arms, composite rear spring with matching front springs and shocks and sway bar, adjustable rear strut rods, Borgeson power steering kit, tubular upper a-arms, full suspension super kit for rebuild, 63 parking brake cables. Dan at Van Steel was an absolute pleasure to deal with both in person and on the phone. He spent probably an hour at Carlisle with me and then more then an hour on the phone talking to me about intended use of car, what will work well together, I never felt pressured or sold to. There were several duplicate parts in the various kits I was getting while not very expensive still not needed that he provided a credit for. I can't say enough about my experience with Dan.

Saturday at Carlisle after talking to Dan at Van Steel I went over to talk to the guys at Yogi Bair's about the rear end rebuild. I read several posts here from members that were very happy with their work. I just got off the phone with Mark and he was great walked me through what they do and what to expect. They are sending me a shipping box to send the rear end to them.

In the vendor section I picked up a 65 Muncie 4spd, a large bearing bell housing, and sb side exhaust with covers, and few other small items.

Now the fun begins!

66jack

I like it all except the composite stuff....

Tom Austin

Let the "fun" begin!!! . . . that's for sure!!! Let's start with a few pics of what you're starting with . . . we LOVE pics!!!

NativeAz

morly1963

Good luck-I'll be following.

Patrick03

Sounds like a great project! Add pics for sure. I've been very happy with my composite spring. The key is to use good rear shocks that have adjustable rebound. That way you can dial in the rebound and get rid of the bouncy ride.

Tampa Jerry

Sounds like you are well on your way. I could not agree more on the folks at Van Steel. My wife and I visited the shop years ago, as they are local to me. Danny's dad Artie convinced my wife that I should do a body off on my 66 coupe. I did. I don't know if I should thank him or throw rocks at him. . Great family. Jerry

TJ63Vette

Well I've made some progress on the chassis, and thought I would add some pictures of where I am at.
The front frame horns had brackets welded on them I am guessing for bumpers but who knows. The grinder with a cut off wheel made fast work of the welds.

Had to remove this bracket

bracket removed and welds were ground off after the picture

Same thing on the right side

Had some straightening to do on this horn and still need to weld a nut on the inside of the top hole

The one area on the frame that had some weird damage on the inside frame rail just ahead of the kick up. It looks like either a tow truck hook punctured and ripped a hole or a frame shop making a pull. I've seen crazy things but I cant imaging a frame shop making pulls to fix the frame with new rails only to leave this gash but only the person responsible for this will ever know.

Prepping the area to remove the damage, the frame is surprisingly solid

I pulled out a bunch of mouse bedding and also found about an inch of road grime. I pulled out the pressure washer and blasted the inside of both frame rails until the water ran clean. A few small tree nut remnants came out. I cleaned out the small drain holes in the back corners of the kick ups. I spent hours rinsing the frame and checking all rails for and thin spots and found nothing. The frame is not scaling or flaking it is in really nice shape surprisingly

Cut a patch from a replacement frame rail section. I had to match the contour on the bottom right corner of the patch as the frame has a recess in that area.

Here is a pic of the rear suspension with an American flag theme as I received it. The differential is an AU 3.36 from a 67 with the HD axles. I am pulling the diff out and sending it out for rebuild. Other then the half shafts everything else is being replaced with parts from Dan at VanSteel

Using a 2x4 and a clamp on the spring I raised the spring with a floor jack and removed the nut on the spring bolt

Repeat on drivers side

Removed spring bolts and strut rod bolts. The strut rod bolts were absolutely trashed the cam retainer heads were welded in place. The nuts did not even hold onto the threads. Not sure what was going on here but new parts are on order. I removed the one and only half shaft cap from the driver side and the passenger side had a cap on one joint and a u bolt on the other. I can't imagine it drove like this

After pulling the diff out I put it on the bench to drain it and chase the threads. The front pinion support bolts were frozen. I had to apply heat to the area of the diff that they go through and use a 3' breaker bar to loosen them up and drove them out with a punch

Here are the stampings on the diff I know AU= 3.36 and can make out 67. If anyone else knows what the other markings mean I would appreciate it

gleninsandiego

Railroadman

Nice progress!

Factoid

I don’t know your final plans for the frame, but Eastwood makes an internal frame coating that works great. Given all your time getting it clean, it would be a good idea. Most frames rust from the inside out.

Project is looking great by the way!

TJ63Vette

While waiting on the suspension components I have been keeping myself busy with a few other items. I received my Hurst shifter and linkage today and got it mounted and adjusted and I also received my differential back from rebuild. It’s like Christmas in September. I also received my ujoints and flanges for the half shafts. Heading over to my buddies house to blast, paint and reassemble them this weekend hopefully. Getting a couple of those clips out kept me busy. Also found a 64 Holley 2818 carb and snowflake aluminum intake in on of the many boxes.

Tampa Jerry

Great progress. I would also check the front differential mount. I remember reading that the 63s and maybe some 64s had trouble with them. I think the weakness can be corrected by welding a pair of plates where the two bolts go through and drilling new holes. Do a search for further information. If you have a 67 mount, you should be in great shape. Keep the pictures coming. Jerry

TJ63Vette

Thanks Jerry,
i had the original style that had the welded washer around the bolt hole. I had to replace my strut rod bracket because the cam bolts and washers were welded in place. I was fortunate enough to find both in the C3 section and the front bracket is the later 68-78 one with the thick welded plates on each side.

TJ63Vette

Been a while since I posted so thought I would check in but also ask for input on the next phase of t he build. As of now I have procured all of the frame suspension mods that I am going to tackle on this frame. I am in the planning stages of phase 2 which I consider drive line more specifically engine and ignition. I have read the forums until my eyes hurt, what I am looking for is some feedback for those of you that have installed a crate engine and what items I should be planning for like ignition, distributor, tach, clutch, ball stud, etc.
Here is what I have an M20 trans and 403 bellhousing. I have no clutch components except the shift arm (which may be 65) and Z bar. I need recommendations for components, will the 1 1/2" ball stud work with the later style crate engine?
Rebuilt 3.36 rear end.
My plans are a Blue Print 383 specifically Part #: BP38318CTFV the low profile with Holley Sniper. I plan on a new fuel tank and the Holley 12-310 fuel pump that requires no return line and works in a stock tank.
My car basically has no engine or ignition at this point and staying original is not a factor. I am not sure what distributor is included with the Blue Print engine, is it tach drive? Which aftermarket ignition source works with the Sniper and the provided dizzy.
My goal is simplicity. I am not racing the car just want a dependable driver I can plan a trip through the Smoky Mountains on the Dragon Tail, or parts of Rt 66.

Thanks

Terry

TJ63Vette

Well it’s been a while since i posted an update so I thought I would share some progress. Moved the 63 chassis in the garage displacing my wife now that we have some better weather. I removed all of the suspension, steering, and lines. I had to cut off a rear shock mount that appeared to replaced at some time which was at a bad angle. I couldn’t believe the rear TA shims. They were slotted at the pivot bolt end and were not captured by the lower pocket in the frame. Apparently just rust and the nut and bolt holding them in place. The front coil springs were not indexed in the lower control arm seat and the upper control arms had no shims. Spring removal went smoothly with a coil spring compressor. I also cut off the rear trailing arm bump stop bracket’s flush with the frame to make room for the Wilwood disc brakes and offset trailing arms.






Next steps cut the transmission crossmember and weld in the aftermarket kit to make the center removable.

DansYellow66

The coil springs actually were indexed in the upper frame pocket by GM. You can confirm in the AIM. The ends just fall wherever they do in the a-arm. Looks like you have a solid frame. Good luck with the project.

TJ63Vette

Thank you for the heads up on the coil spring they weren’t indexed in the frame either.

TJ63Vette

Finished removing everything from the frame and got my son to help me flip it over and get it up on saw horses to get up off the ground. I was able to remove the rear differential crossmember pretty easily with a pry bar. The bolts backed out with no issues at all. The thing that has been a major dilemma for me was cutting the transmission crossmember and installing the American power train brackets. I have done fab work like this before but something about cutting up this frame felt wrong but the car will never be perfect or original so it might as well be functional and easy to work on.
Big news for the next step I ordered my 383 with Holley Sniper from BPE yesterday!!! The staff there answered all my questions honestly and that was refreshing. The delivery date right now is 60-90 days out so I have a deadline to get this chassis painted and assembled now

TJ63Vette

Been keeping busy on the frame, replaced one of the rear shock mounts with help from Don “Railroadman” confirming some measurements. Also modified the rear bump stops to accept 65-67 rubber stops to accommodate the Wilwood calipers. Replaced a damaged lower control arm bracket up front. I cut the slots for side exhaust too using a replacement frame section as a template.






Also sprayed the inside of the frame with Eastwood internal frame coating.