65-StingRay

Can someone answer these 2 questions. Can I remove the driver's side window without removing the vent window and do I have to take out my vent window to remove the power window motor from my 1965 coupe?
Spent most of the afternoon trying to remove the driver's power window motor. All the screws, nuts, bolts and brackets were removed from the door. I'm kinda stuck at the vent window as far as how to remove it. I've got the 2 nuts at the top that hold the side glass loose.
If anyone can shoot me some advice I'd appreciate it.
Wayne

Vet65te

Wayne - I've got PW on my midyears and I believe the service manual instructions say that the wing window framework has to be removed to get the main window out and that's the way I've done it. No doubt some forum member has figured out how to extract the main window without having to pull the wing window setup but for the life of me, I haven't found a way to do that.
As for pulling just the motor, I've never tried to do just that, I always pull the main PW regulator out, motor and all.
Of course, at the beginning, to get the wing window frame out, the upper/rear Coupe channel will have to be at least dropped at the front leading edge.
As far as the '2 nuts' on the wing window are concerned, not sure what you are describing. Besides the lower in/out adjustment bolt and three screws along the top leading/slanted door frame surface, the only other attachment I can recall is the bolt that attaches
at the sill area.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

65-StingRay

Mike, thanks for the reply. You speak from experience.
The 2 nuts attach to the 2 studs that holds the window glass in place at each end of the glass. I hope that makes sense.
Any tips on pulling the wing window.
Wayne

Vet65te

Wayne - I get it, you were talking about the main window when you mentioned the nuts, not the wing window...my misunderstanding. On removal of the wing window (frame and all), is your Coupe door still intact, meaning is the outer weatherstrip still glued in place?
If so, the three screws I mentioned are mostly hidden under the glued in weatherstrip - just forward of the actual wing/vent window. If your weatherstrip is in good shape, you could carefully slice it off the door with a putty knife and expose the three screws. Besides the three screws, there is the one bolt/screw I mentioned that secures the wing window frame at what I call the sill line and then there is the lower stud and nut with attached washer at the lower end of the wing window frame, effectively the front window channel for the main window glass. One other comment, the main window, even when lowered as far as it normally would go in normal travel is not low enough, you have to drop it basically to the bottom of the door by removing the rear channel...the one that is secured by two screws coming in from the back end/latch area of the door. Geez, I've done this on maybe 6 midyears and have it in my mind as to what to remove, what to loosen, what to do next but when I go to write it up...it sounds confusing as hell. Sorry about that, you'll no doubt have more questions, don't hesitate to ask and I'll try to walk you through it. Hopefully some of the other forum members will have pics to go with the process of tearing a door window setup apart.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

65-StingRay

Mike, great advice. I've already accomplished a couple of steps you mentioned with the wing window. I got the screws out from under the weather stripping without hacking anything. A great tip about removing the side window by letting it down to the bottom.Tomorrow I'll follow your advice and see how far I get.
Thanks
Wayne

Chalie M

Put blue (wide) painters tape on everything & you will need to unpop the top fuzzy channel (I use a PLASTIC set of pry tools and put it under the fuzzy bubble clip (great article to read on the forum I believe its called anatomy of a side door).
Good luck
there is also a trick to install large lengths of strong duct tape around both sides of the window and leave about 6-8” losse on top & they are your handles for lowering lifting the glass out..
Look up some articles on the forum you will find them articles all very good reads & tricks..

Good luck
Chalie



I took my fuzzy channel completely out because I was going to replace it all anyway but you can pop down the half of it on the top door and let it hang .

Cover everything You can remove the long stud on the very bottom of the vent window assy, if not you have to do a turning twisting when you are lifting it out a lot more if the stud is still left in that bottom vent trac

woodsdesign

I have recently done this job on my 65 coupe. You will have to remove the vent window to get the pw motors and regulators out. Remove the glass by removing the two screws. also remove the window channel that attaches to the back of the door and the short track that attaches to the inner door. There is a small screw holding the fuzzy at the bottom of this channel and two push in "pea" connectors that need to be popped out. The upper one is a bitch to reinstall. Let the glass set on the bottom of the door and slide it as much out of the way as possible. You will need to remove the adjustment screw on the bottom of the vent window channel, the screw at the base of the window and the three screws that are under the weatherstrip. Then carefully slide it out. Now you can carefully remove the glass. Then the window motor and regulator. When reinstalling slide the window in the channel and use painters tape to hold the glass in the up position while you are installing the rear window channel.
Note: if you are using aftermarket motors and regulators they are known to jam in the down position. ( mine jammed three times ) It becomes a real PITA. So I would get your originals rebuilt. ( if that is the problem)

65-StingRay

Great commentary guys. Your making this job easier for me with your descriptions. I will follow the advice to the letter especially about protecting the door and paint.
One more question - once I get to the stage where I can remove the reg. and motor how and when do I remove the plug from my original motor? I understand that it has a tab that has to be released but access is tough to get to.
Wayne

65-StingRay

Big thanks to the forum users who posted pics and advice I now have my side and vent windows removed without damaging anything. I did not have to remove any of the felt channel to get the windows out.



Followed Chalie's advice and taped everything off and made 2 duct taped handles stuck to window to pull it out.


Window channels out of car on work bench.

Now my final move is to remove regulator and motor. Again how and when do I remove the plug from motor? Do I undue the 4 small bolts holding it to the door, pull it back some and then remove plug?
Wayne

65-StingRay

The hardest part is over I removed the regulator and PW motor. The 1st problem was the electrical connection I had to fiddle with it but still could not get it off. Then it dawned on me there is a hole that I had covered with a small piece of foam that gave me access to the plug. So I stuck a long handled thin blade driver through the hole and into the plug and popped off the connector. Here's the hole I used.


Just enough access to pop off plug. This is to the front of driver's door.

Here's a pic of the reg and motor - it's in pretty good shape.


The teeth on the gear are in great shape - no damage anywhere.

Connector and ground wire. Still in good shape.

That only leaves me to rebuild the PW motor. The only other small hurdle is to put in the 1/4 by 20 x 1" bolt to stop the spring from releasing when I undue the motor from the regulator. I may have a problem with this because the motor only works in the down direction and I'm not sure which way it goes so the hole will line up. Trial and error.
I'm going to pull the wiring out of the door to check and repair any bare spots on the wires.
Just want to give a big thanks to all that replied to this thread.
Wayne

Chalie M

Nice work, It was nerve wracking for me I was upgrading a manual window to P/W especially when it came to getting the dremel tool out to cut holes in the body & drilling the doors to mount the wire conduit’s.
I’m sure you know this but DON’T use any of that white grease (it just dries/cakes up as it gets old), I used wheel bearing grease or silicone grease on the regulator rollers, tracks, gear teeth on the regulator & motor teeth, sprayed silicone spray in all the fuzzies & last but not least install some dielectric grease on the motor terminals & a dab on the plastic connector terminals also..

Good Luck
Chalie

65-StingRay

Good advice and I will follow it. Yea I knew about the drying characteristics of white lithium. I'm going to use wheel bearing grease and I'll follow up with all that other stuff. I'm going to rebuild the motors by cleaning up the armature and brushes and check the gears. But the regulator gear looks in great shape.
Wayne

Chalie M

MAYBE, you could take some pics & share the motor rebuild I never had one apart (did a lot of internal voltage regulator,diodes r/r in GM alternators & starter solenoids repair etc), but never had one of these type motors apart would love to get some first hand education on these, I have some old o.e. Spares I could rebuild, bittersweet though, I hope getting back in them doors is for the next owner:-)….

Thanks
Chalie

woodsdesign

Your concern about removing the p/w assist spring is well warranted. This is what happed to me when I was using a pic on my computer as a guide. It became a very expensive project. Be careful.

65-StingRay

I'll do my best to document the motor rebuild. Hopefully it can help others.
Wayne

DZVette

I've attached some info compiled when I had to repair my driver's side window stuck in the down position. Turned out to be a problem with the brush in the motor.
Hope this gives you some insight into the motor, etc.
Dave Z

65-StingRay

DZVette, I've used all your videos to help with my work. They were very well done and as a reference you couldn't ask for better. Here's another video that's excellent: Wayne

Vet65te

Wayne - congrats, you're doing a fine job going over your door windows and mechanisms. Let us know when you get around to the motors. I've found some motors just need a bit of cleaning followed by greasing while others looked like they went 'off-roading'.
and had a ton of dirt and grit inside. Took some doing to get them that messed up but they are pretty durable and it's very satisfying when you're done and test them out and hear them spin freely.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

65-StingRay

Mike, I'll get the motor in the next day or two. Agree with what you said about the cleanliness of the motors. I'm guessing the rebuild of mine should be easy and straightforward.

I didn't have a lot of time to work on it today but this is what I found. I hooked my motor up to a spare battery and she works in both directions. I found the problem and its located right at the conduit between the door and the body. I'll post some pics later and you will see what BUBBA has done to my wiring many years ago when I had it at the body shop for paint in '85. They removed the doors and cut the wires off at the conduit - what a mess. I'm surprised the window worked so well all these years. More later.
Wayne

65-StingRay

Just got out of the garage after fixing my wiring for a couple of hours. Here's what I discovered:

Nice wiring!!!
Car was painted in '85 and they took the doors off so they just cut the wires and used terminal connectors to put it back together. I mentioned in the 1st few posts that my window switch was getting real hot a couple of weeks ago so I stopped and unplugged the 12 gauge power window wire from the fuse box. There's my real problem - not the switch or motor but as one or more of you guys mentioned to check the conduit for shorting. How's that for shorting. I can't believe the down switch still worked.
I added a fusible link to the power wire for the windows. I used a 30 amp fuse because the circuit breaker can take 40 amps so I erred on the side of caution. I even had a couple of stock connectors for originality.


30 amp fuse for window switch.

Location for grommet where wiring enters the door opening. Just wedged it out with a small pry tool.


Easy access if you have to get to the wiring.

So I spent the rest of the time re-wiring those wires. I soldered all the wires after I cleaned each one. Then double heat shrinked each joint using a 1 size larger shrink the second time, Added about 6" of length to each wire to gain a little more play.


Joints soldered and shrink wrapped.

Last pic is the wiring all loomed up.


Took the connectors off so I could remove the conduit for access and also painted it.

Tomorrow if I have time I'll start pulling the motor apart and rebuilding it. This is becoming a real project. I will post pics of the rebuild to help anybody in the future.
Wayne