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As far forward as the engine will clear the drag link Good clearance Two mounting bosses will be welded shut and radius will get grounded down It clears but barely. Will weld holes shut and grind the draglink two round mounts flatter
You surely must have got the engine positioned wrong. This swap has been done dozens of times with the stock GM Connect and Cruise setup using the stock pan. There is a picture from another forum member in this thread showing this.
Smallblock bell housing to frame clutch bracket. Looks like 5” LS3 bellhousing to frame clutch looks like 4”. I was trying to cheat the new engine forward an inch to help with the larger diameter transmission housing. I can push it back to stock engine location but I don’t want to cut my transmission tunnel. Everything is a compromise but the LS is 100 pounds lighter than the small block
Can you put some extra body mount shims in to get enough clearance? You can gain some clearance by raising the body a bit, but like everything, there is only so much you can do before other things become a problem. I guess another option might be a dry sump setup.
Can you put some extra body mount shims in to get enough clearance? You can gain some clearance by raising the body a bit, but like everything, there is only so much you can do before other things become a problem. I guess another option might be a dry sump setup.
Thanks for the installed picture.
I'm going back to the Dirty Dingo engine plates and pushing the engine back to stock location. It should add additional clearance for the steering
Hopefully it wont kill me later with the body's transmission tunnel being so narrow.
I'm using this oil pan, and my motor is placed full forward position on the mounts for tunnel clearance. The steering rod clears but is very tight in full right position.
I'm using this oil pan, and my motor is placed full forward position on the mounts for tunnel clearance. The steering rod clears but is very tight in full right position.
Polo91,
Which transmission are you using?
My engine is about 3/4" further back than yours with the TransDapt plates.
I can change to the Dirty Dingo plates and move 2" forward but the front crossmember to crank pulley & the center steering draglink starts to hit the oilpan. I bought that oilpan from Ebay also.
URSLOW,
Can you flip the mounts you are using around? Unless I missed someone's comments and posts (possibly). I recommend using mounts with a little more adjustability,,,,purdy cheap at $38.99.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551628
[QUOTE=urslo;1605188116]Polo91,
Which transmission are you using?
My engine is about 3/4" further back than yours with the TransDapt plates.
I can change to the Dirty Dingo plates and move 2" forward but the front crossmember to crank pulley & the center steering draglink starts to hit the oilpan. I bought that oilpan from Ebay also.[/QU
My transmission is a 4L60E. The clearance in the full right steering positioin is very tight, if the engine settles any in the mounts once I start to drive it there will be a problem and the engine may have to be moved back an inch. I did have to notch the front crossmember, the balancer cleared but was so close I could not get the belt on.
Those ICT plates are just like the Dirty Dingo engine plates I had on the first time, but that was prior to the oil pan change.
I don't know why i thought to change to the Trans-adapt plates, maybe because i had them.
Now we are going back to the multi-mount plates and pushing the engine back to stock bellhousing position.
With the body off, i really cant tell how tight the transmission tunnel will be, but its very narrow compared to other GM cars I've worked on.
Polo91,
Which transmission are you using?
My engine is about 3/4" further back than yours with the TransDapt plates.
I can change to the Dirty Dingo plates and move 2" forward but the front crossmember to crank pulley & the center steering draglink starts to hit the oilpan. I bought that oilpan from Ebay also.[/QU
My transmission is a 4L60E. The clearance in the full right steering positioin is very tight, if the engine settles any in the mounts once I start to drive it there will be a problem and the engine may have to be moved back an inch. I did have to notch the front crossmember, the balancer cleared but was so close I could not get the belt on.
Being the owner of a 1964 Corvette, one has to be a mechanical archeologist to figure what journey this automobile has taken prior to my current caretaking.
I have discovered that it had a 62 Fuelie engine, 64 Muncie 4 speed and apparently a 72 rear differential, installed in a powered coated frame, of unknown vintage. My uneducated guess would be, Im not the first person who's taken the body off or been here.
Its all good, as we are not going for a NCRS Gold car, but a fun, safe, reliable, comfortable cruiser for my wife and myself.
Off my soapbox
Im using the 4L65E that came with my "GM connect and cruise" also. I hope it fits.
Engine mounts in the first holes “stock engine placement” according to Dirty Dingo website I’m not sure why my balancer is this far back, but I’m not complaining Back of the engine in relation to the battery tray.
Front of engine next to the upper a-arm Stock LS3 water pump housing. I’m not using this one, I bought the Holley Mid-drive setup You would have to chop this one up to fit. Which is okay until you need to change the water pump 500 miles from home.
I saw this and thought it was funny, I used the same mounts as you in the same location and had a photo from my install 7 years ago, checkout the waterpump location compared to yours
05-24-2022, 10:17 PM
Steering clearance
