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[C2] 427 Variations Question

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Old 12-16-2021, 06:45 PM
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elwood13
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Default 427 Variations Question

I've reached the step to start getting an engine for my car. Since we decided here that it was originally a 390/427 car, a big block will once again be in the car. After looking at all the crate choices out there, I just can't find the one I really want. Never thought I would say this, but they either have way more hp than I think I need, or the heads have raised exhaust ports (read that may cause exhaust manifold/header issues) or the intake is too tall, etc. I would like a dependable build staying close to the stock hp range.

Of the 427 variants, is one more preferred than the others for daily driving, long trips etc? No drag strip in the future but possibly the cone courses. Trying to figure out what specs I am looking at as I know what the parts are but do not know what all the numbers mean.

Talking with the local engine builder, we were looking at going with Gen VI block, roller set up, aluminum heads/intake and I am going with the holley sniper.

Here is the block I am looking at as it is actually in stock and found it cheaper than the listed price. The builder said we would probably have to have the crank made since chevy discontinued the one-piece rear seal crank they use for the ZZ427. They still make the engine but don't sell the crank by itself anymore. I don't understand that.
427/454 EngineBare Block: GM Performance Motor
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Old 12-16-2021, 06:55 PM
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68hemi
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Based on your comments Have you looked at this?

https://blueprintengines.com/collect...ns-br-seasoned
Old 12-16-2021, 07:13 PM
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elwood13
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I did look at their engines. I really don't want to buy a new engine that is bored .60 over at the start. I think the next thing up they had was a 502 that was not bored. The rep told me he didn't think the intake would clear the hood, might have issues with the raised exhaust ports and would probably need to change the oil pan. I asked about getting just a short block and he stated that they were not selling those at this time as they are trying to play catch up on the long block orders.
Old 12-16-2021, 07:36 PM
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I don’t know about their BBs but their SBs are their own blocks they build. If their blocks are .060 over and the make their own it likely has plenty of wall thickness. regardless they WARRANTY it. The link I sent you are not the tall block so I don’t know why you would have a height problem especially with a BB hood. You may want to revisit this.
Old 12-16-2021, 07:41 PM
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elwood13
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I will see what other options they have. The link you posted is for their hand picked season blocks they bore 60 over for that line of engine. The 502 and up are made from their new castings.
Old 12-16-2021, 08:18 PM
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I think a 454HO from GM would fit all the check marks.
Old 12-16-2021, 08:27 PM
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These BP 496's are made with their new blocks. They also have roller cams, mech fuel pump and clutch Z-bar boss. However, they still have the raised intake port.

https://blueprintengines.com/collect...-standard-deck
Old 12-16-2021, 08:34 PM
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Thanks all. I will look at those.

But was their a difference in driving say the 390 vs 435? I don’t know if you would street drive an L88.
Old 12-16-2021, 08:44 PM
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Im going to do the GMPP ZZ427. Conservatively rated at 430 Hp and over 500 Lb/ft aluminum heads and it’s complete from oil pan to carb. I don’t think you can beat it , and it’s got a warranty.
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Old 12-16-2021, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood13
Thanks all. I will look at those.

But was their a difference in driving say the 390 vs 435? I don’t know if you would street drive an L88.
Chris there is a huge difference between a real 435 and a 390, now an L88 with an idle speed of 11 or 1200 RPM you have to work it to get going, but once moving it’s downright scary, it’s simply a race car on the street. I prefer solid lifters over hydraulic lifters. The 390 is hydraulic.
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Old 12-16-2021, 09:16 PM
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My 65 BB coupe came from the factory with a small block. A NASCAR owner built the car for his wife and installed a 427 engine from an Impala SS 427. The engine is rated from the factory as 385 horse ( 390 ) with hydraulic lifters and stock Holley 750 CFM Carb. It is a two bolt main engine and is mated to a Richmond Six speed transmission. It has a Comp cam and Rhoads lifters which I installed. The car pulls hard and drives very nicely and with the side pipes sounds really good. The car was auto crossed successfully in the past. Also plenty of hood clearance with my hood and BB stock air cleaner. Hope this helps. Fred







Last edited by vettefred; 12-16-2021 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 12-16-2021, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by elwood13
I've reached the step to start getting an engine for my car. Since we decided here that it was originally a 390/427 car, a big block will once again be in the car. After looking at all the crate choices out there, I just can't find the one I really want. Never thought I would say this, but they either have way more hp than I think I need, or the heads have raised exhaust ports (read that may cause exhaust manifold/header issues) or the intake is too tall, etc. I would like a dependable build staying close to the stock hp range.

Of the 427 variants, is one more preferred than the others for daily driving, long trips etc? No drag strip in the future but possibly the cone courses. Trying to figure out what specs I am looking at as I know what the parts are but do not know what all the numbers mean.

Talking with the local engine builder, we were looking at going with Gen VI block, roller set up, aluminum heads/intake and I am going with the holley sniper.

Here is the block I am looking at as it is actually in stock and found it cheaper than the listed price. The builder said we would probably have to have the crank made since chevy discontinued the one-piece rear seal crank they use for the ZZ427. They still make the engine but don't sell the crank by itself anymore. I don't understand that.
427/454 EngineBare Block: GM Performance Motor
Chris,
If you're going to build your own engine using the bare block in your OP, why wouldn't use simply use the crank with the one piece rear seal that the same company sells?
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/10183723.html
Old 12-16-2021, 10:57 PM
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Reading Gavin65’s post—my vintage racer 66’ L72 is orig motor but pretty much L88 spec— idle is 1250 (has to be or she loads up), hooker long tube headers. I think it is decently streetable but wife hates it— loud and she hates smell of 112 Sunoco— weird huh? 😀
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Old 12-16-2021, 11:39 PM
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How About a Nice GMPP ZZ502 Nice Specs...

508 HP @5200 RPM..What it really is a 454 Stroked..originally built for Marine Applications for low RPM High Torque is needed to twist the props. No need to wind your motor to 10 Bazillio RPM. Will drop right into a C-2. You can get a deluxe ready to run or a Long Block.. Check out the website. https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc.../zz-502-deluxe You will need to chane to a 4 Qt Pan and chage the oil pick up. Now comes with Fuel Pump boss and clutch cross shaft Ball Stud.


580 LB/FT @3600 RPM






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Old 12-17-2021, 12:53 AM
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Default What GM Crate Engine Should I Buy?

Originally Posted by elwood13
I've reached the step to start getting an engine for my car. Since we decided here that it was originally a 390/427 car, a big block will once again be in the car. After looking at all the crate choices out there, I just can't find the one I really want. Never thought I would say this, but they either have way more hp than I think I need, or the heads have raised exhaust ports (read that may cause exhaust manifold/header issues) or the intake is too tall, etc. I would like a dependable build staying close to the stock hp range.

Of the 427 variants, is one more preferred than the others for daily driving, long trips etc? No drag strip in the future but possibly the cone courses. Trying to figure out what specs I am looking at as I know what the parts are but do not know what all the numbers mean.

Talking with the local engine builder, we were looking at going with Gen VI block, roller set up, aluminum heads/intake and I am going with the holley sniper.

Here is the block I am looking at as it is actually in stock and found it cheaper than the listed price. The builder said we would probably have to have the crank made since chevy discontinued the one-piece rear seal crank they use for the ZZ427. They still make the engine but don't sell the crank by itself anymore. I don't understand that.
427/454 EngineBare Block: GM Performance Motor
A few years ago I was going through exactly the same anguish about a crate engine choice as you are now experiencing. My 67 originally came with an L71 motor according to the tank sticker. I decided that I wanted a BB that most closely duplicated a 67 BB design so I went with a GM performance ZZ427/480 hp crate engine. I thought briefly about buying a 454 or a 502 but I really wanted my new engine to match the numerical call-outs on each side of my hood bulge. Silly I know but that was the reason.

It turned out to be the perfect choice for me. Everything fit. Everything lined up and it was a piece of cake to install. It has aluminum heads with roller rockers and big valves. It runs on pump gas and all of the parts of the engine are available over the counter from your local Chevy dealer. It uses an old school fuel pump with a rod that runs off the cam lobe and the side of the block has been drilled and tapped for the piece which holds one end of your clutch cross shaft. It is a well behaved motor with all of the horsepower you will likely ever need. In addition, this motor comes from GM with a two year warranty from the date of purchase.

I'm not sure about the one-piece rear main seal (part # 10101164) having been discontinued by Chevrolet since the GM performance website still lists it for sale at $38.97. The ZZ427 engine comes completely assembled and has already been run and tested at the factory so I never had any dealings with a machine shop or a "builder". GM was the builder and I was the installer. Anyway that's my two cents and if I had it to do over again I would not change a thing. Good Luck with whatever you decide and I have included a couple of pictures for your perusal. C.J.







Last edited by C2Scho; 12-17-2021 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Remove a Typho
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Old 12-17-2021, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Gavin65
Im going to do the GMPP ZZ427. Conservatively rated at 430 Hp and over 500 Lb/ft aluminum heads and it’s complete from oil pan to carb. I don’t think you can beat it , and it’s got a warranty.
Based on what you said you wanted, and keeping the 427 Moniker, I think this is a very wise choice.

BUT- it looks like you had better grab one before they are all gone, if you have fought one still in inventory!! The 480hp one is the one that most outlets have to sell, and at a big price jump.

Old 12-17-2021, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
Based on what you said you wanted, and keeping the 427 Moniker, I think this is a very wise choice.

BUT- it looks like you had better grab one before they are all gone, if you have fought one still in inventory!! The 480hp one is the one that most outlets have to sell, and at a big price jump.
agreed I’m having this issue of availability as we speak, I may have no choice but to go with the 480 as it seems to be the only one available, and there is still a 3 month lead time .

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Old 12-17-2021, 05:34 AM
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Nowwhere man is right. I'v used this motor in 2 cars and is the perfect fun street engine.
Old 12-17-2021, 07:24 AM
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Chris,

At the speed this build is going I've got the only option you will soon have

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/you-can-now-make-your-electric-motor-look-v

This is my lame way of subscribing to your thread. No need to thank me.......It's time to go DRIVING! I hear the hill country calling!!

Steve
Old 12-17-2021, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by C2Racer
Chris,

At the speed this build is going I've got the only option you will soon have

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/you-can-now-make-your-electric-motor-look-v

This is my lame way of subscribing to your thread. No need to thank me.......It's time to go DRIVING! I hear the hill country calling!!

Steve
There you go.........easiest way to put a HEMI in a Vette


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