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I'd err just a little bit on the side of caution and not prime the carb. For my cars that sit for extended periods, I crank the engine until the oil pressure begins registering and then prime the carb or pump the accelerator. That way I know it's at least got some oil moving to parts that need it before it fires up at 1000 rpm. This was also recommended by the machinist/builder for my 454 and what he does with his vintage cars.
I disagree with this approach.
Cylinder walls get no lubrication when running a priming tool or when cranking the engine. They receive splash lubrication from the crank but only after the engine starts.
Priming the carburetor ensures the engine starts rapidly, minimizing the time the cylinder walls receive no lubrication.
Having a working choke and fast idle system further ensures the cylinder walls receive a lot of oil immediately after engine start.
Just as a sidenote, I know several guys that fog the engine with oil till it stalls, and then back off all the rocker arm/lash adjustment nuts till the valves are closed for long-term storage, you never know what this guy might’ve done? Just so you’re aware, there’s an outside chance.
Just as a sidenote, I know several guys that fog the engine with oil till it stalls, and then back off all the rocker arm/lash adjustment nuts till the valves are closed for long-term storage, you never know what this guy might’ve done? Just so you’re aware, there’s an outside chance.
I am going to guess when the guy parked it six years ago he had no idea he would never drive it again
I am going to guess when the guy parked it six years ago he had no idea he would never drive it again
I don’t know, being an old guy myself? All my collectibles will be appropriately put up/stored, with explanation as to their condition, idiosyncrasies, etc……. I know, you young guys don’t think like that, yet
As an example: for the original L-72 going back in my 66, I have assembled a notebook/manual for the subsequent owner, along with a set of GM maintenance manuals. The notebook lists each and every deviation/revision to the car (in which the GM manual specifications / procedures should not be used), and then notes the necessary/corresponding maintenance data/information based on that revision to the car.
I pulled the plugs, shot Sta-Bil fogging oil in each cylinder, rotated the engine by hand 4 revolutions to insure there where no stuck values, put the plugs back in, primed the carb with a squirt bottle, gave it a shot of starter fluid and had my son hit the key. It fired and ran for a few seconds before stalling. I primed the carb again and it started and kept running this time. No carb leaks and the oil pressure gauge quickly went up to 60 lbs. I let it run for 5-7 minutes until the temp gauge read 180 degrees. It ran surprisingly well given that there was 6 year old gas still in the fuel line. I couldn’t have hoped for a better result.
Observations while prepping the '63 for initial startup
I pulled the valve covers to oil the valve train before startup and see that the 461 heads have B155 date codes, which equates to Feb 15, 1965 (or maybe even 1975 if GM was still producing/selling 461 heads). I could believe a casting date of 1975 only because the widow told me she was certain that they ran the car on 87 octane fuel in this car. Perhaps the compression ratio was lower in heads cast later versus the 11:1 ratio in the 1960s?
The car has an 870 block with a January 28, 1963 casting date. I also found a receipt showing the engine block purchase in the early 1990s. The VIN of the car suggests a Feb 4-7 1963 build date so this block would be considered “period correct”.
The differential is stamped with “CA1 15 63”. My research shows that CA1 is the broadcast code for 336 ratio with a 3-speed transmission. The car currently has a Borg Warner 4-speed with 7 digits stamped on the flange that match the car’s VIN. I am not sure what to make of the discrepancy. Factory mis-stamp? Maybe the differential installed is not the one the car was born with?
We did a quick operational check and the radio, blower motor, headlight motors, brake lights, turn signals, courtesy lights and all dash gauges work. The only things that didn’t work are the clock and glove box light. This appears to be a well sorted car that will make an excellent driver for myself and son. Next up will be drive around the neighborhood this afternoon (the tires have 2007 date codes so I don’t want to go too far or too fast on them).
Flint-built 250 and 300 HP engines in '63 had an advertised CR of 10.5:1 and required "premium" fuel of the day. If rebuilt with dished pistons and thick head gaskets to get the CR down to no more than 9:1 they might run detonation free on 87 PON with the lazy OE spark advance map.
II am just wonder for a car that have not been started for several years you will change the oil and oil filter
But when putting on the new oil what about taking off the valve covers and pore the oil over the valves on both side?
Poring oil over so that the rockers are guaranteed to be lubed?
What do you think about taking off the valve covers and pore oil over the valves?
After checking that the engine turns over easy and builds oil pressure off course
I pulled the valve covers to oil the valve train before startup and see that the 461 heads have B155 date codes, which equates to Feb 15, 1965 (or maybe even 1975 if GM was still producing/selling 461 heads). I could believe a casting date of 1975 only because the widow told me she was certain that they ran the car on 87 octane fuel in this car. Perhaps the compression ratio was lower in heads cast later versus the 11:1 ratio in the 1960s?
The car has an 870 block with a January 1963 casting date. I also found a receipt showing the engine block purchase in the early 1990s from Chicago Corvette. The VIN of the car suggests a Feb 1963 build date so this block would be considered “period correct”.
The differential is stamped with “CA1 15 63”. My research shows that CA1 is the broadcast code for 336 ratio with a 3-speed transmission. The car currently has a Borg Warner 4-speed with 7 digits stamped on the flange that match the car’s VIN. I am not sure what to make of the discrepancy. Factory mis-stamp? Maybe the differential installed is not the one the car was born with?
We did a quick operational check and the radio, blower motor, headlight motors, brake lights, turn signals, courtesy lights and all dash gauges work. The only things that didn’t work are the clock and glove box light. This appears to be a well sorted car that will make an excellent driver for myself and son. Next up will be drive around the neighborhood this afternoon (the tires have 2007 date codes so I don’t want to go too far or too fast on them).
Nice find and start up.
Many 63's lost their original 461X heads to stock iron head class racers, and were replaced with later 64-67 461's and 462's. There are no external differences in Flight Judging, and some later heads have the larger 2.02/1.6 valves. The B155 are 65' heads.
CA is a 3.36 gear. 1 15 63 is the Jan 15, 63' assembly date. It does not indicate a 3-speed.
Pre-May 63's came with a BW 4-speed, and if the VIN stamp matches it is original and correct for a Feb 63' car.
Clocks have a habit of killing batteries, and many were disconnected on stored cars.
Mount new tires, pull the drums to inspect the shoes and wheel cylinders, and flush and bleed the brake fluid. Short runs should stir the lube and soften the grease to expose problems before you get too far from home to make repairs.
This afternoon, I let the car warm up and took it for a 1.5 mile drive around the neighborhood. It shifts smoothly and the clutch feels fine. I will say that the T10 has a much different feel than the Muncies in my '67 and '71. As for stopping, the car pulls severely to the right. I suspect a stuck/inoperable LH front wheel cylinder although I am drum brake novice and have some learning to do (I have only worked with C2/C3 disc brakes).
II am just wonder for a car that have not been started for several years you will change the oil and oil filter
But when putting on the new oil what about taking off the valve covers and pore the oil over the valves on both side?
There's nothing in taking that step that will cause any harm and it does guarantee that the valve stems and rocker *****/rollers are coated in oil. Just make sure you use new valve cover gaskets when reinstalling the covers. As I mentioned before, I don't prime the carb for immediate start so that the engine cranks for 15-20 seconds to build oil pressure. That way I know it's got oil flowing to the camshaft and crank prior to starting. Necessary? Unnecessary? I have no clue but for upwards of 40+ years it's worked for me and my '67.
Your question also touches on another point of debate: should you change the oil prior to start to guarantee fresh, uncontaminated oil; or should you start up with the old oil to get the particulates suspended and the hot oil flowing better then change it? I've done both. It's vitally important, prior to starting with the old oil, to ensure there is no water contamination. You really don't want the oil pump picking up the water from the bottom of the pan (oil floats on water) and distributing that through the engine.
There's nothing in taking that step that will cause any harm and it does guarantee that the valve stems and rocker *****/rollers are coated in oil. Just make sure you use new valve cover gaskets when reinstalling the covers. As I mentioned before, I don't prime the carb for immediate start so that the engine cranks for 15-20 seconds to build oil pressure. That way I know it's got oil flowing to the camshaft and crank prior to starting. Necessary? Unnecessary? I have no clue but for upwards of 40+ years it's worked for me and my '67.
Your question also touches on another point of debate: should you change the oil prior to start to guarantee fresh, uncontaminated oil; or should you start up with the old oil to get the particulates suspended and the hot oil flowing better then change it? I've done both. It's vitally important, prior to starting with the old oil, to ensure there is no water contamination. You really don't want the oil pump picking up the water from the bottom of the pan (oil floats on water) and distributing that through the engine.
The best you can do is to prime the carburetor (or FI) so the engine starts IMMEDIATELY. This ensures the cylinder walls, which depend on splash lubrication from the spinning crank, receive lubrication at the earliest possible moments. The bearings don't go "dry" from sitting. There is always a film of oil remaining, no matter how long the engine has been idle. It's the cylinder walls which should concern you the most.
Also, start the engine with the oil in the pan, then change it later. Any lubrication is better than zero lubrication right after an oil change.
I pulled the plugs, shot Sta-Bil fogging oil in each cylinder, rotated the engine by hand 4 revolutions to insure there where no stuck values, put the plugs back in, primed the carb with a squirt bottle, gave it a shot of starter fluid and had my son hit the key. It fired and ran for a few seconds before stalling. I primed the carb again and it started and kept running this time. No carb leaks and the oil pressure gauge quickly went up to 60 lbs. I let it run for 5-7 minutes until the temp gauge read 180 degrees. It ran surprisingly well given that there was 6 year old gas still in the fuel line. I couldn’t have hoped for a better result.
Fantastic, glad it started up for you. Warning, do not run it on that old gas. Old gas when burned forms a varnish like substance that coats the piston head and valves quickly. On tear down the engine stinks, a very unique smell. I have seen this happen to many people who don’t consider old gas a problem. I would remove what you can, install new Gasoline and add a quart of ATF, the ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, any cheap brand will lubricate and clean without hurting anything in your engine or system. It will not make it smoke. Engines that run on old gas will stick the valves in the guides from the varnish like substance. Then you are looking at removing the heads for repairs. The piston heads look really pretty after running on the bad gas, they come out shiny and looking like you varnished them. I am not trying to scare you, just sharing actual experience. I used to call on several hundred Machine Shops and saw this happen many times. Some engines had only sat for one year.
MikeM rest his soul, used to write notes telling me I was out to lunch with this old gas advice. Then one day he called me to inform me he had 2 engines stick the valves trying to run them on old gas. We both got a laugh out of it. Wish he was still here to comment.
Beautiful car, I am sure you will have lots of fun with it.
Mark
Last edited by Westlotorn; 10-23-2021 at 05:50 PM.
Starting these old beasts, I always use a 2-stroke pre-mix gas to prime through the carb - that gives the cylinder walls some needed lubrication and allows for instant firing - FWIW.
Hey, my brother has a 99% original 70 survivor car with 38,000 miles (only belts, hoses, battery, and a set of tires have been changed over the years). It sat for 18 years. He drained the fuel, cleaned the cab, changed the oil & battery, and turned the key. It started right off the bat. Even the brakes were fine. Drove it that same day. These engines are amazing in their design and durability....
10-09-2021, 02:24 PM
