Help with my '61 please...
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Help with my '61 please...
I've owned a '61 for 12 years now. I bought it from a friend that owned it for over 20 years. It's my Friday driver or weekend car if you will. It's all stock with bias-ply tires and I think it's time I freshened her up. She also wears the original paint and interior which I don't want to touch.
Here's what I'm looking at:
1. New pinion Seal - old one is leaking
2. Radial Tires - The old Bias-plys are getting scary to drive on
3. New Clutch - getting some chatter
4. Overhaul the 4 speed, Trans - poping out of 2nd gear
5. New Engine - old engine runs fine but it's out of a 61 full-size car. I bought a '61 block, heads, and 2x4 intake that are correct for the car. Block has no VIN so I believe it's a Factory Replacement
6. Seat Belts - The car has never had any
7. New soft-top and frame - was a hardtop only car
8. New exhaust - rusted... will add the cross pipe style
9. New Brakes - work fine but they haven't been touched in a long time
I'd appreciate any help or suggestions that may help this along. Maybe who has the best exhaust, seat belt kits ect... I'm also going to looking for a set of Carb's that are correct for the 61 as well.
Cheers,
Ron
Here's what I'm looking at:
1. New pinion Seal - old one is leaking
2. Radial Tires - The old Bias-plys are getting scary to drive on
3. New Clutch - getting some chatter
4. Overhaul the 4 speed, Trans - poping out of 2nd gear
5. New Engine - old engine runs fine but it's out of a 61 full-size car. I bought a '61 block, heads, and 2x4 intake that are correct for the car. Block has no VIN so I believe it's a Factory Replacement
6. Seat Belts - The car has never had any
7. New soft-top and frame - was a hardtop only car
8. New exhaust - rusted... will add the cross pipe style
9. New Brakes - work fine but they haven't been touched in a long time
I'd appreciate any help or suggestions that may help this along. Maybe who has the best exhaust, seat belt kits ect... I'm also going to looking for a set of Carb's that are correct for the 61 as well.
Cheers,
Ron
Last edited by rhanselman; 05-13-2021 at 05:40 PM.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Keep her as a weekend and Friday to work driver. The rest is just gravy, I'd like to chase the original date codes as I can but be reasonable about it at the same time. I'll keep her together until I have everything ready and then I'll take her down all at once.
Cheers,
Ron
Last edited by rhanselman; 05-13-2021 at 05:09 PM.
#5
Drifting
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3. New Clutch - getting some chatter
4. Overhaul the 4 speed, Trans - poping out of 2nd gear
Ron you may try calling Phoenix Transmission in Weatherford, TX, not to far from you, for your transmission and clutch. They specialize in automatic transmissions but also do clutch, flywheel, transfer case, differential repair and some general automotive service. Scott and his guys are great to work with. If they can't help you maybe they can refer you to someone that can...
4. Overhaul the 4 speed, Trans - poping out of 2nd gear
Ron you may try calling Phoenix Transmission in Weatherford, TX, not to far from you, for your transmission and clutch. They specialize in automatic transmissions but also do clutch, flywheel, transfer case, differential repair and some general automotive service. Scott and his guys are great to work with. If they can't help you maybe they can refer you to someone that can...
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#6
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I assume the differential seal is the pinion seal. That is about a 20-minute job. Very easy. If it is the carrier, with the correct axle puller, about a two-hour job.
Regarding the 4-speed, engagement teeth are probably gone on 2nd. Replace 3rd, as well, when you have it disassembled; otherwise, that will probably be the next one to go. Buy a Master Rebuild kit and, also, new synchro units to go with 1/2 and 3/4, Inspect first and fourth gear, too, while you have it apart. While the tranny is out, go for the clutch and have the flywheel inspected, as well. Replace the TO bearing while you are at it. I don't know how handy you are, but you could do the transmission yourself. No special tools needed.
If you don't have the correct motor and this one runs fine, that seems like a waste of money to me. Just because it is out of a '61 does gets you closer than what you have, but not by much. Same goes for the brakes. Check the linings for thickness but if they work fine, leave them alone, too.
That is a nice-looking car. Go for the things that count.
Just my two cents.
Regarding the 4-speed, engagement teeth are probably gone on 2nd. Replace 3rd, as well, when you have it disassembled; otherwise, that will probably be the next one to go. Buy a Master Rebuild kit and, also, new synchro units to go with 1/2 and 3/4, Inspect first and fourth gear, too, while you have it apart. While the tranny is out, go for the clutch and have the flywheel inspected, as well. Replace the TO bearing while you are at it. I don't know how handy you are, but you could do the transmission yourself. No special tools needed.
If you don't have the correct motor and this one runs fine, that seems like a waste of money to me. Just because it is out of a '61 does gets you closer than what you have, but not by much. Same goes for the brakes. Check the linings for thickness but if they work fine, leave them alone, too.
That is a nice-looking car. Go for the things that count.
Just my two cents.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 05-13-2021 at 05:23 PM.
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rhanselman (05-13-2021)
#7
Race Director
It is amazing to see the difference in car conditions, this car compared to others, a 60 YO Corvette with original paint that looks really nice, at least from a distance, compared to just a few years older 1953 car that is rough as a cob. When i bought my '61, in 1974, only a 13 YO car, it too was rough, but not as bad as Prestons '53.
Obviously some cars were pampered their entire lives, others were not so fortunate.
A car like this white one, is a real nice find.
Doug
Obviously some cars were pampered their entire lives, others were not so fortunate.
A car like this white one, is a real nice find.
Doug
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#8
Racer
for any of our early non-seatbelt vetted and street rods and antiques, I get seat belts from Andover . they are near Baltimore. last set for a c-1 were 50 bucks. mike mccagh
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#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
It is amazing to see the difference in car conditions, this car compared to others, a 60 YO Corvette with original paint that looks really nice, at least from a distance, compared to just a few years older 1953 car that is rough as a cob. When i bought my '61, in 1974, only a 13 YO car, it too was rough, but not as bad as Prestons '53.
Obviously some cars were pampered their entire lives, others were not so fortunate.
A car like this white one, is a real nice find.
Doug
Obviously some cars were pampered their entire lives, others were not so fortunate.
A car like this white one, is a real nice find.
Doug
Thanks... She has her share of chips and such that have the old small repairs. Mostly a small brush in any scratches. You know, the old paint correction kits you'd find at a NAPA or elsewhere. She won't win any awards but I'm proud to drive her as she is. She's a good 5-10 footer...
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
I assume the differential seal is the pinion seal. That is about a 20-minute job. Very easy. If it is the carrier, with the correct axle puller, about a two-hour job.
Regarding the 4-speed, engagement teeth are probably gone on 2nd. Replace 3rd, as well, when you have it disassembled; otherwise, that will probably be the next one to go. Buy a Master Rebuild kit and, also, new synchro units to go with 1/2 and 3/4, Inspect first and fourth gear, too, while you have it apart. While the tranny is out, go for the clutch and have the flywheel inspected, as well. Replace the TO bearing while you are at it. I don't know how handy you are, but you could do the transmission yourself. No special tools needed.
If you don't have the correct motor and this one runs fine, that seems like a waste of money to me. Just because it is out of a '61 does gets you closer than what you have, but not by much. The same goes for the brakes. Check the linings for thickness but if they work fine, leave them alone, too.
That is a nice-looking car. Go for the things that count.
Just my two cents.
Regarding the 4-speed, engagement teeth are probably gone on 2nd. Replace 3rd, as well, when you have it disassembled; otherwise, that will probably be the next one to go. Buy a Master Rebuild kit and, also, new synchro units to go with 1/2 and 3/4, Inspect first and fourth gear, too, while you have it apart. While the tranny is out, go for the clutch and have the flywheel inspected, as well. Replace the TO bearing while you are at it. I don't know how handy you are, but you could do the transmission yourself. No special tools needed.
If you don't have the correct motor and this one runs fine, that seems like a waste of money to me. Just because it is out of a '61 does gets you closer than what you have, but not by much. The same goes for the brakes. Check the linings for thickness but if they work fine, leave them alone, too.
That is a nice-looking car. Go for the things that count.
Just my two cents.
I'm fine with the brake system, I just want to make sure it gets some attention. I'm not looking to upgrade just be made safe if needed.
#11
I noticed you have white wall tires and they were the norm in that day. If you replace with the same it will be very nice, however here is an example of black-wall tires, albeit with poverty hubcaps on a 61.
I see very few 61's with the cove the same color as the car. This was all how 62's came from the general but in 61 for something like $16 you could have the cove painted different than the car. Most were white unless the car was white as yours is.
Lastly this is an example of Gardner exhaust in NY, they will have the correct 61 Corvette exhaust. It is all stainless steel, fits correctly and many say theirs's is the best available - costly but with a car like yours, well worth it... Al
I see very few 61's with the cove the same color as the car. This was all how 62's came from the general but in 61 for something like $16 you could have the cove painted different than the car. Most were white unless the car was white as yours is.
Lastly this is an example of Gardner exhaust in NY, they will have the correct 61 Corvette exhaust. It is all stainless steel, fits correctly and many say theirs's is the best available - costly but with a car like yours, well worth it... Al
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#12
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Have to agree with AZ Doug. That is a really nice-looking driver. If you are going to replace the engine with the 2X4bbl. set up, try and run a mild hi-po cam like that found on the L 79, kick up your compression a little, and have the heads tweaked. No sense putting that carb unit on a 9:1 compression engine.
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#13
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[QUOTE=AlHewitt;1603448708]I noticed you have white wall tires and they were the norm in that day. If you replace with the same it will be very nice, however here is an example of black-wall tires, albeit with poverty hubcaps on a 61.
I see very few 61's with the cove the same color as the car. This was all how 62's came from the general but in 61 for something like $16 you could have the cove painted different than the car. Most were white unless the car was white as yours is.
/QUOTE]
If you do choose to paint your coves (and 0nly appx. 1/3 of the 10,939 corvettes of that year were painted at the factory) keep in mind only 2 colors were available from the factory. White & Sateen Silver. Though it is true, of the 61's seen on the road today more seem to have the contrasting cove paint and most were surely painted after they left the factory. This ,obviously, opened up more color choices. (See my avitar) Your car,your choice.Make yourself happy. Great car!
I see very few 61's with the cove the same color as the car. This was all how 62's came from the general but in 61 for something like $16 you could have the cove painted different than the car. Most were white unless the car was white as yours is.
/QUOTE]
If you do choose to paint your coves (and 0nly appx. 1/3 of the 10,939 corvettes of that year were painted at the factory) keep in mind only 2 colors were available from the factory. White & Sateen Silver. Though it is true, of the 61's seen on the road today more seem to have the contrasting cove paint and most were surely painted after they left the factory. This ,obviously, opened up more color choices. (See my avitar) Your car,your choice.Make yourself happy. Great car!
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rhanselman (05-14-2021)
#15
I like what you are doing - making a very original looking 270HP car. There are other things to consider; deep grove pullies, recurve the distributor, etc... Al
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#17
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No one has addressed the "tire" part of your question yet.
Putting radial tires on my '61 was, by far, the largest improvement in drivability I have done.
(Halogen headlight bulbs was a close 2nd!)
Diamondback offers modern radial tires with the correct wide-white whitewall.
They even fake the bias ply pie crust edge.... kind of!
(These are NOT diamondback tires in the photo below.. They are Hankook)
Also, for the softtop... Consider a Stayfast material rather than the stock vinyl.
Here is a Robbins stayfast top on my original-paint '61.
The stayfast lasts longer.. you don't have to worry about shrinkage or rips.. Ask me how I know!
Fred
Putting radial tires on my '61 was, by far, the largest improvement in drivability I have done.
(Halogen headlight bulbs was a close 2nd!)
Diamondback offers modern radial tires with the correct wide-white whitewall.
They even fake the bias ply pie crust edge.... kind of!
(These are NOT diamondback tires in the photo below.. They are Hankook)
Also, for the softtop... Consider a Stayfast material rather than the stock vinyl.
Here is a Robbins stayfast top on my original-paint '61.
The stayfast lasts longer.. you don't have to worry about shrinkage or rips.. Ask me how I know!
Fred
Last edited by SDVette; 05-14-2021 at 05:05 PM.
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#20
Good for you not making a rest o rot out of it. Looks to nice for that. As someone mention if you are handy at all you should be able to do most of the work yourself. And anytime you do the work yourself you are not only saving money but a lot of headaches. The original carbs would be expensive but you should be able to buy clones. Complete brake system would be fairly cheap as well as an exhaust system. Lot of these old transmissions jump out of 2nd gear. Usually a new gear and brass will fix that. As for me I like bias tires but I guess yours are to old to relie on. Tires can be costly. As mention go with a stayfast top. You will be glad you did whenever you stow it away and raise it back up. Top and frame are going to be costly. Tops can be tricky to be on so in this case I would go with someone who has experience installing C1 top. Depending on how much you do yourself 15K to 20K should do it, assuming you have no body or painting work.