66 coupe upper swing arm assembly bushings
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
66 coupe upper swing arm assembly bushings
my clutch pedal and my brake pedal move about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from side to side if i grab and pull them from side to side? is there anything other than bushings
that keep the pedals from moving from side to side? any other washers or nuts that hold the upper swing arm assembly? has anyone changed the upper
bushings in the swing arm assembly? is it a hard job to do or should i take it to a shop and let them fix it? never any fun when working under the dash in
my experience. thanks for any help or pointers or tips to fix this.
that keep the pedals from moving from side to side? any other washers or nuts that hold the upper swing arm assembly? has anyone changed the upper
bushings in the swing arm assembly? is it a hard job to do or should i take it to a shop and let them fix it? never any fun when working under the dash in
my experience. thanks for any help or pointers or tips to fix this.
#2
Yes there are bushing on each end of the clutch pedal shaft and in the brake pedal. The bushings can be worn out and the housing is worn but
you must remove the complete housing and pedal assembly to replace the bushings to find out.
Not a hard job, just stuff to get out of the way.
Unhook battery
Remove the steering wheel.
Remove the steering column from car.
Remove the bolts holding the Master cylinder to the firewall.
Remove the two bolts below the master cylinder with nuts through the firewall.
Remove the two bolts holding the pedal assy to the Z bar.
Pull pedal assy rearward and down and out.
There are other things to unhook like the electric connection at the steering column.
The Odometer reset cable
The steering shaft from the steering box, mark with felt tip for indexing first.
The firewall bkt and clamp holding the steering column.
Now its out and you can check the clutch pedal shaft for wear/breakage.
Fogaley@sbcglobal.net Scott
you must remove the complete housing and pedal assembly to replace the bushings to find out.
Not a hard job, just stuff to get out of the way.
Unhook battery
Remove the steering wheel.
Remove the steering column from car.
Remove the bolts holding the Master cylinder to the firewall.
Remove the two bolts below the master cylinder with nuts through the firewall.
Remove the two bolts holding the pedal assy to the Z bar.
Pull pedal assy rearward and down and out.
There are other things to unhook like the electric connection at the steering column.
The Odometer reset cable
The steering shaft from the steering box, mark with felt tip for indexing first.
The firewall bkt and clamp holding the steering column.
Now its out and you can check the clutch pedal shaft for wear/breakage.
Fogaley@sbcglobal.net Scott
#3
Le Mans Master
Got a few pics of the pedal box from my 65 396 Roadster. As Fogaley already mentioned, there's a fair amount of interference removals involved prior to any work on the pedal box. It's another one of those 'while I'm in there' sorta things.
Here are some pics of what it looked like when I removed it, including pics showing the shaft bushings. I've done this on a number of midyears and while the old bushings are usually dry and crusty looking they can be reused but the replacements are cheap.
One other mention...the clutch pedal arm top shaft is swaged onto the pedal arm. In some cases, that get's loose and adds to the feeling of a sloppy pedal. While you have that clutch pedal arm out, check it out and if you see any looseness, you might want to add a couple beads of weld to secure it.
Good luck,
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Here are some pics of what it looked like when I removed it, including pics showing the shaft bushings. I've done this on a number of midyears and while the old bushings are usually dry and crusty looking they can be reused but the replacements are cheap.
One other mention...the clutch pedal arm top shaft is swaged onto the pedal arm. In some cases, that get's loose and adds to the feeling of a sloppy pedal. While you have that clutch pedal arm out, check it out and if you see any looseness, you might want to add a couple beads of weld to secure it.
Good luck,
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Last edited by Vet65te; 04-19-2021 at 02:09 AM.
#4
Team Owner
This piece is the pedal bracket; a swing arm is something else.
f the cutch pedal does this:
Then its broken here:
I've changed the bushings and clutch pedal without completely removing the cluster but its a big PITA.
f the cutch pedal does this:
Then its broken here:
I've changed the bushings and clutch pedal without completely removing the cluster but its a big PITA.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-19-2021 at 07:14 AM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
thank u guys are the best i think this is a job i do not want to tackle. i will take it to a shop and let them do its. thanks again for all your help and the pictures.
#6
Le Mans Master
I lived in the the SF Bay Area for most of my life, SF for about 20 years, Sonoma County for another 36 before coming to Arizona. Not a whole lotta shops around these days who know enough to work on old Vettes, do you have someone in mind?
I don't know any in the vicinity of Pleasant Hill but do know of one that I think is down in Hayward, Precision Motive, owned by Dan Hendrix. Never had them do anything for me personally but had a friend with a 66 Bigblock Roadster who used them frequently and was happy with their performance.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
I don't know any in the vicinity of Pleasant Hill but do know of one that I think is down in Hayward, Precision Motive, owned by Dan Hendrix. Never had them do anything for me personally but had a friend with a 66 Bigblock Roadster who used them frequently and was happy with their performance.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
#8
Le Mans Master
Silver837 - You jogged my memory, it is Pat Hendrix that owns Precision Motive. His brother Dan Hendrix, the one I mentioned, used to have a repair shop in Santa Rosa and that's the one I was familiar with.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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