99Silverbullet

Could there be a “dead” spot in the motor when opening the headlights or it either works or does not?

The driver headlight stops when opening, but it fine closing.

I checked several times and nothing is hitting or in the way.

I had the originals restored instead of buying repops.

I attached some videos to show the operation.

Thanks

Patrick

Nalrops

Sounds more like a stripped drive gear. Easy enough to pull the motor, open the gear case and check.

99Silverbullet

is this something i can fix myself or should i buy a rebuilt one for $200?

How are you pulling the motors off with everything together? Its not easy sticking your arm in there and pulling them off.

Redbird

So much easier to have a helper to remove the hood, and then pull the motor. Your attachments are blank!

99Silverbullet

Removing the hood is easy, just getting down there and no direct sight on it.

Redbird

Everything in clear sight with hood off.

67L36Driver

Use a mirror and/or just go by feel.

one wire connector, one screw and one clip.

rolling flip gets it past the hood.

Boom, it’s out.

65 Pro Vette

first of all with the motor out does that headlight bucket turn freely with no binding? If it is turning freely then I would say the main aluminum gear in the motor is bad why they didn’t replace it when they rebuilt the motors doesn’t make any sense. It’s a very easy repair and very inexpensive easy to do, just order the gear from Zip Products.
if the bucket is binding at all you need to take it apart and lubricate all internal parts.

99Silverbullet

Took the motor off, bucket is rubbing. How do i adjust the side to side position on the bucket?

buns

'Y' stop on the inboard side and collar on the outboard.

VetteRed1965

Silver,Have you taken the mechanical switch under the dash out and apart and cleaned the contacts with a fingernail file ? These get corroded from tome to time
and can cause your symptoms.There are two springs clips,one on each side,be gentle not to break these. Its easy once you do his once or twice. About once a year these need to be cleaned depending on environments. Good Luck

99Silverbullet

There is nothing wrong with the switch, its all complete new wiring, switch etc..and tested it last weekend...i found yesterday that the bucket is not moving freely. So i'm going to have to pull the collars off and readjust it.

I'll post more as I get closer to the problem!

99Silverbullet

Great photo, where did you find this? 65 exploded manual doesn't show this much detail, thanks!

buns

^ It's from the 1966 Chassis Service Manual,

Jam421

I know you're seeking advice on repairing your OEM headlamp motor. After chasing all the ghosts I became weary of my headlamps "winking" by alternatively opening one side & not the other or once open needing the high beams because one of the headlamps just decided not to work on occasion. The Detroit Speed kit solved ALL issues. Now it's one pull of the headlamp switch with instant opening of louvers, both lamps on every time. High beams remain on the floor & also work flawlessly. Not cheap but one of my best upgrades.
https://www.detroitspeed.com/c2-elec...orvette-122008

99Silverbullet

i decided to pull the bucket out and reinstall it..question - is there anything between the bucket and the inside of the headlight opening?

I notice the copper washer was between the bucket and body of the car but the manual shows its on the inside of the body.

99Silverbullet

I figured it out..collars were too tight and needs some lube..guess after 2 years it dries up pretty fast or didn't put enough when i did it. thanks guys.