0Tom@Dewitt

I was lucky enough to find an original 65 Powerglide transmission but I do not know the history behind it. I will take the pan off and based on color and smell of the fluid or metal, it could turn into a complete rebuild. I have the torque converter but again, I have no idea if it is any good. When I look at replacements, you have a whole bunch of options. Stock re-manufactured and performance models. I don't need racing features but if there something that works better than the stock unit?

Powershift

Tom:

I can't remember the exact number, but I believe a stock TQ for this trans lockup was around 1800 RPM. You can try and verify this number. It may be in the Factory Service Manual or Overhaul Manual, or perhaps the SAE Technical Info for the model year, or maybe from some old racing books.

Above 2500 RPM (or so) generally requires a auxiliary cooler to handle the extra heat from increased slippage at low in-town engine RPM. You probably don't want to go there,,,,,,it will make in town driving feel sluggish.

Something around 2000-2200 might be a good number if you have to replace the TQ.............what rear axle are you running?? That also makes a big difference.

If I can find info on the factory TQ I will post it later for you.

Larry

Powershift

Tom:

SAE Powertrain paper had the following for 1967 Corvette. 1965 data should be same. :

Powerglide 2 speed trans.

Small block TQ lock-up: 1730 RPM
Big block (L36 and L68) lock-up: 2220 RPM

I believe this is for the same TQ, as the lock-up RPM will vary somewhat depending on the engine rated HP and torque.

Larry

0Tom@Dewitt

I am not sure but I think it's a high one. Running about 2500 rpm at 40 mph. I'll get real speed/rpm numbers and post it so someone can tell what the rear ratio is. Meanwhile, the input shaft came separately and it doesn't seem to want to go back in. I tried turning the tail shaft and shifting but the spline just doesn't line up for it to go back in. What's up with that?

kingwoodvette

Tom, since your down why don’t you jack up the rear end, spin the differential yoke and count the turns to produce a complete rotation of the wheels. That will be the axle ratio.

0Tom@Dewitt

good idea

J.Moore

Tom, in that pic the shaft is backwards as to how it install in trans, unless it's just laid that way for the pic. The reason it's hard to get back in is because of the brass sleeve or collar, bushing that is now in the direct clutch hub. It's sometimes called the "wedding band", about the size of a ring. Shaft will still go back in but you gotta be real careful fitting it in and thru that ring without breaking one of the sealing rings, just have a gentle touch as you easily work the shaft while wiggling rotating it back in and thru that brass ring, it will go, just work with it, you'll know it's in when you feel it bottom out in rear planet. Then, after you seat it in, pull it out again and do it again for practice.. lol.. Just watch the sealing rings. It's duck soup..

Work the shaft up, down, left to right , CAREFULLY as you try to push into trans,, it will go, takes a certain feel..