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A friend has 4 wheel scales to determine the overall weight of a car and the weight at each wheel (pro-touring or racing). My 63 coupe - resto-mod with RS Chassis, LS3 (aluminium block), tons of dynamat, AC, 5 speaker stereo & 325 tires in the rear came in at 3300 lbs. I'm curious if anyone else has weighed their stock c2 (big block or small block). I have seen the curb weight specs for 63's anywhere between 3000 and 3300 that's fine I'm more interested in actual results.
I haven't, but its on my list of things to do. Curious to see what others end up with though. For such a small, fiberglass car, 3300 seems awfully heavy, but I know that's within the listed ballpark for these cars.
I haven't, but its on my list of things to do. Curious to see what others end up with though. For such a small, fiberglass car, 3300 seems awfully heavy, but I know that's within the listed ballpark for these cars.
Yeah, stock, these cars have a damn lot of cast iron in them.
In 1965 I weighed my stock '63 convertible on the scales at J.I. Case in Bettendorf, Iowa. Only the soft top and about a half tank of fuel on board. The scale weight was 3,140 pounds.
Stay safe all,
Steve Stone (original owner, '63 triple black convertible, 583,0000 miles)
My vintage racer (see avatar) comes in at 1250 lbs on the front wheels and 1150 on the rear, or 2400 lbs total. I got rid of or never installed a lot of the cast iron which makes the stock Sting Rays so heavy.
I used aluminum wherever I could. The door hinges, for example, are aluminum and weigh 16 lbs less than the steel originals. The aluminum cylinder case weights 85 lbs. The drive shaft and the half shafts are aluminum also.
It's possible to make a Sting Ray weigh considerably less. You just have to work at it.
Plastic does not necessarily have to be light. My yacht ( 14 meters long ) is custom made in plastic. My friend has the same yacht made in sheet steel and when comparing the weight of the two yachts - only the hulls - it turned out that the plastic ship is 20% heavier.
My vintage racer (see avatar) comes in at 1250 lbs on the front wheels and 1150 on the rear, or 2400 lbs total. I got rid of or never installed a lot of the cast iron which makes the stock Sting Rays so heavy.
I used aluminum wherever I could. The door hinges, for example, are aluminum and weigh 16 lbs less than the steel originals. The aluminum cylinder case weights 85 lbs. The drive shaft and the half shafts are aluminum also.
It's possible to make a Sting Ray weigh considerably less. You just have to work at it.
I was just about to ask the same question....given its size, the stocker isn't all the heavy.
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.
I looked (briefly) only because I needed a new driveshaft anyway. I couldnt find anything smaller than 3” in aluminum, and I think that came in at 8 lbs without the yoke. For the price, 2lbs certainly wasnt worth it on my street car....and I was concerned about tunnel clearance at that point.
I agree. IIRC, my stock driveshaft weighs 10# (without the yoke). The 2" diameter fortunately gives the shaft a darn small moment of inertia. I'm trying to find an aluminum driveshaft that is obviously lighter than my steel shaft, and also trying to get comfortable with any MoI differences/increases due to the (expected) increase in diameter and wall thickness. Just trying to figure out where the curves cross, and staying away from where the increased diameter overcomes the reduction in weight.
It's been a long time since I weighed my aluminum driveshaft so my memory is a little fuzzy. That said, I believe it's about 4lbs bare.
A fair question. It's not an issue for me because the tunnel is not stock. IOW, I don't know what clearance issues might exist if you tried to use a 3" driveshaft in a stock Sting Ray.
A fair question. It's not an issue for me because the tunnel is not stock. IOW, I don't know what clearance issues might exist if you tried to use a 3" driveshaft in a stock Sting Ray.
I kind of assumed your tunnel probably wasnt stock. Doing some rough measurements, a 3" DS would be extremely tight in the factory tunnel, even with the heat shielding removed.
I kind of assumed your tunnel probably wasnt stock. Doing some rough measurements, a 3" DS would be extremely tight in the factory tunnel, even with the heat shielding removed.
There is enough room in the tunnel of my car that I could and did add a driveshaft loop just behind the transmission-end U-joint.
My 67 full race scca corvette weighted 2422 totally stripped interior with 1 piece front end and 1 piece flip rear had to run ASR in scca amazing car kept up with some big money cars
05-25-2020, 08:55 PM
C2 overall weight
