[C2] How to know which 427 my 1967 was built with
#21
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Ken, interesting Dick Tracy work, continued good luck with your '67 !
#22
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Since over 16% (3754 of 22,940) 67s were built as L71s (435HP) then they are not rare, but they are desirable. Note that only 424 of 22940 67s were built with 3-speed manuals, which makes them rare, but they're not desirable.
Anyways, there's a great chance with a 6500rpm redline and 80 psi oil pressure gage that your car was definitely built as an L71.
One way to improve your validation is to look at the back of your instrument cluster for two things:
First, look for the paper tag indicating the type of cluster - the letters you're looking for are "LB" which was specific to the L71. Even if someone swapped out the original low rpm tach AND oil pressure gage in an effort to make it look like an L71 when it was not, they would be unlikely to try to fake the paper tag.
Second, if the paper tag is correct (LB), find the date stamp on the back of the cluster, which was made with an old-style hand date stamper and blue ink. The date should be before your car's final assembly build date estimate, but not too far ahead of it.
If those are matches, I'd say you're good to go, and the car was built as an L71.
One thing, finding the tags for me involved a strong light source, a large inspection mirror, and bending into uncomfortable positions and "medications" afterwords.
Last edited by Easy Rhino; 04-14-2020 at 04:07 PM.
#23
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I was able to use an inspection mirror to see mine without any gymnastics. I didn't know this was significant when I rewired the Vette years ago so I didn't take a picture of it.
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No VIN stamp on the rear diff, that was a typo on my part.
I will look at the sheen of the tach versus the speedometer and I will also look for the sticker on the back of the cluster, thanks!
Ken
I will look at the sheen of the tach versus the speedometer and I will also look for the sticker on the back of the cluster, thanks!
Ken
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I guess "gymnastics" is a relative term. I was happy to find that my dash cluster validated my engine build, but was also happy to have accomplished my own version of gymnastics to read my dash sticker and date with only temporary discomfort!
All that said, for a high-dollar attempted fake, changing out the dash cluster sticker and date might be worth it and could be faked, but for most cars this would not likely be done in an attempt to support a faked car.
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6T7L71CPE (04-15-2020)
#26
Safety Car
Ken, this is a 66 differential stamp. The ''FA'' code is for a 3.70 positraction 427 engine car. 6 6 66 is the date. You should look for this date on your car for approximate cast date of your missing 427/435 replacement. This stamp is on the bottom of the diff where it is connected to the rear spring. Easy to find with a clean rag and WD-40 spray clean.
Last edited by jimgessner; 04-16-2020 at 11:31 AM.
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So, the sticker is no longer on the back of the cluster. The sheen on all of the gages is exactly the same.
The rear differential stamping is unreadable even when cleaned
Ken
The rear differential stamping is unreadable even when cleaned
Ken
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Well that's annoying. Were you able to at least locate a date stamp and if so did it range match the car's build date?