When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got a paint shop lined up to repair fiberglass and paint my car. They want to sand down to fiberglass. I'm a little concerned that could soften the body lines and may take many expensive labor hours to perform.
I've found a company that will come to me to soda blast the car (can't find a local shop that does that kind of work). I've also thought about chemically stripping it myself.
I stripped mine with fiberglass aircraft stripper. DUB did a good write up for Holt on the regular stripper. I’ll try and find that thread later in the paint section. Is your paint original? Mine was repainted in 72 and I used a razor blade in places but only took the color off. Stripped the primer with chemicals.
I would be concerned about the lines as well on sanding.
If it's been painted with lacquer then it might blow right off with a razor blade. I just finished a hood for my 59 and stripped 90% with a blade then finished it off with Citri strip, that stuff is sloooooow but no danger to the glass. I tried the aircraft stripper in my small shop but the fumes were too much for me. It's cold here in Pa. Citri strip not nearly as bad.
When I did my '62 I used a combination of a DA sander, razor blades and hardware store stripper. didn't lose any "lines" and it lasted nearly 25 years before needing refinishing. This time I painted right over the 25 year old seasoned acrylic enamel with single stage urethane with great results. After all, it's only a car !
Don't let a body shop use a DA sander on your car. I don't care how good they are or how careful they promise to be. Fiberglass is very soft compared to sheet metal. What works for steel bodies will not work on our old Vette's. I've always used chemical stripper. I tried the razor blade trick, didn't work for me especially on primer paint, might work on old lacquer.
Razor blade and paint stripper. Then finish up with lacquer thinner and scotch bright pads.
I went out to garage and tried a razor blade on the paint. Chipped off pretty easily! There is grey primer underneath. Do I take a razor blade to that as well? Or is that when the stripper is used?
I blast ALL my bodies
inside / outside / underneath
They come back and look like a babies butt
If you dont have someone good - I have a guy here in Naperville IL
I have a 57 being blasted right now - has 6 paint jobs on it !!!!!!!!
I blast ALL my bodies
inside / outside / underneath
They come back and look like a babies butt
If you dont have someone good - I have a guy here in Naperville IL
I have a 57 being blasted right now - has 6 paint jobs on it !!!!!!!!
Chris, what is the typical cost for a blast in your area? Have you ever had one done that was not a frame off? Is residual media an issue once done? Thanks.
I had mine plastic media blasted inside, outside, and underneath by ASC in Manassas VA and then followed with Southern Polyurethanes epoxy applied by my painter. Could not be happier with the results, and the significant number of hours that would have been spent scraping or stripping were used to complete other tasks to advance the project.
Paint stripper and scotch pads should blow the primer right off. You can finish it up with 150 grit paper wet and a block. do a final wipe with thinner. LOTSA fun !!!!
Chris, what is the typical cost for a blast in your area? Have you ever had one done that was not a frame off? Is residual media an issue once done? Thanks.
Inside, outside, underneath, all the bolt on parts - all completely done around 3,000/3,200
He blasts them twice - once with plastic - once with another media
They come back to me like baby butts
I have not done one on a frame
The media is blown out / vacumed out - i do have to vacume and blow the body out - but never an issue
03-02-2020, 12:43 PM
DA Sand, Soda Blast, or Chemical Strip
