drdave69

I've performed some research the last few days but I still did not get my license plate light working. I found that the ground wire was not connected to the forward most screw on the housing and corrected that but it still does not work. Is there a way to test the hot lead wire and ground wire to see if there is voltage at the housing? I am OK with cutting the hot wire to try this (note: it must be the original harness since it still has the encapsulated slice in the wire).

woodsdesign

You can use a volt meter to test if you are getting power to the light. If you don't get a reading switch the ground. If you still don't get a reading you are not getting power. The light assembly is not an expensive part if you have to replace it.

65GGvert

the supply is the same brown wire circuit that feeds the tail lights. The ground is the same black wire as used in the tail lights. If you take the bulb out and measure from the contact in the socket to a good ground, you should have 12v when the lights are on. You really only have a few possibilities. The brown wire isn't connected to the other brown wires at the back, the black wire isn't connected to the license plate socket, or you have a bad or corroded connection in the socket, OR wrong or bad bulb. It is a single contact bulb that is grounded by the base touching the side of the socket, which as I said is grounded by the black wire that goes to all the tail lamp sockets. If your tail lights are working the problem is very local to the license socket and can't be elsewhere in the circuit.

drdave69

I tried a new bulb yesterday to no avail. The tail lights are working so I will concentrate on the license wires.

dcamick

And the fixture.....

R66

Just a quick note on the 'new bulbs'. I have often found that the solder contacts on the new china bulbs are insufficient to reach the contacts in the back of the socket. I have had to add solder to the bulb contacts and file it flat to make / maintain contact on more than one occasion. Not saying this is your problem, but before you accept the bulb is good, push in on it while it has power and wiggle it around a bit.

Good luck

Jackfit

[QUOTE=drdave69;1600857542]I tried a new bulb yesterday to no avail. The tail lights are working so I will concentrate on the license wires.[/QUOT


check the backup lights switch on the transmission, it may not be working or the rod is not connected on it

jack

sorry, I miss read problem..

63driver

Perform some bench testing. Use a 9V battery and alligator wires and clips and just test the bulb. Then put the bulb in the socket and use the 9V battery to test the connections on the fixture. The bulb will not be very bright but you will see it glow.

drdave69

I pulled the fixture loose and disconnected the ground wire from it. I then let it dangle in front of the license plate and performed some tests. With a section of wire and two alligator clips attached to the ground lead and the housing I measured the voltage. I get around 8 volts when I check between the bulb contact point and the bulb ground socket. I get 12 volts when I check between the bulb contact point and the alligator clip attached to the housing. I can see the bulb contact pushing the socket contact point inward when inserting the bulb. I checked 3 bulbs at the battery using wires attached to the battery and they are all good. I'll order a new license plate housing today ($110).

65GGvert

Can't you get just the socket? The housing is probably ok. I've never changed one, but I'd sure check into it first.

drdave69

I installed the new reproduction housing today and everything is working now.