provette67

Frankie I hope that this makes you feel better. This is a '65 that is currently listed on Ebay. You can only imagine how they looked before the car was detailed for the for sale photos

Frankie the Fink

Ugh. I had gold exhaust manifolds for a while when I used that VHT Hi Temp exhaust paint and it didn't cure right...

Yup - that's the actual color when the stuff finally dried - so, I've had enough of the gold bling - thanks just the same!

Frankie the Fink

And sitting too high in the back without the spare tire tub with a spare on board!

GTOguy

Marketing and selling these tires as 'white sidewall' is straight out fraud. They simply are not white. I would return them and demand a refund, and if not satisfied, would raise as much of a fuss as I could. It would be fine if you knew that they would be brown walls, but you didn't buy them with that understanding. You thought you were buying whitewalls.....but you obviously didn't get them. Those are the dingiest looking sidewalls I've ever seen, and I worked for a tire company for 14 years. Unacceptable.

RatDog

It’s not going he look you’re going for but I’d turn those “white walls” to the inside if you can’t get your money back.

Alternatively, if you show your car, I’d be sure to let everyone know who made those tires. Might even make up a a little sign that says, “Brown wannabe white sidewalls courtesy of Uniroyal”.

Steve

gjhinc

Exactly what I've been doing.

gjhinc

Thought I'd share this about my Uniroyal Tiger Paws. I decided to take the advice of some here to contact Discount Tires and let them make it right if possible. They said they would and all I'd have to do was bring them in. Wish I would have thought of that before I tried my white sharpie brain fart idea. Oh, well. I went out and removed the sharpie white from all the tires. Here's the reason for the post. I removed the sharpie white with acetone. Yea. Yea. I know. Rubber and acetone don't mix! Actually, they do mix all too well. Which would lead to a really big problem later on. Like I said, I hate these tires. The punchline is with the sharpie white off, I kept rubbing with the acetone rag. Funny thing happened. The embedded brown in the whitewall started to fad. They actually returned to almost white. My theory was the brown was bleeding up from the tire. That doesn't seem to be the case.

Of course, I'm not recommending using acetone on tires!!! Ever! 1) It's stupid. 2) UNH would ask me to return my Chemical Engineering Degree.

GTOguy

Looking into it, apparently acetone will leech the oils or polymers out of rubber and many plastics and cause it to decompose. Using it to clean tires would be like using a brake fluid soaked sponge to soak bird crap off your painted hood or fender. Bad Ju-Ju.

Stan's Customs

As per post #144

I have a friend on the Chevelle forum that says ...laquer thinner works like a charm to clean white letters on BFG's.
I haven't tried it on newer tires yet....but he knows his stuff.

In the car business/detail business back in the day....I learned that laquer thinner is a must have product for cleaning many things in that business.

I'm sure it will work on white walls too...

I still buy it by the five gallon pail...never been without some in 40 years.
No need to buy real high dollar thinner...wash thinner (paint gun) is better for this kind of thing. It's not quite as "hot"....but it's "nothing" like the almost greasy laquer thinner stuff you get at Lowes or Home Depo.(which won't work.
Go to any automotive paint store. They''ll know what you are talking about....and it not too expensive compared to the "good" stuff used in top end laquer paint.

gjhinc

My goto cleaning solvent has been acetone for 50 years. Lacquer thinner (acetone, toulene and methanol) is expensive for "the good stuff". And, the main useful solvent in lacquer thinner is acetone. And, acetone is water soluble. And, it tastes good in cocktails.

vettebuyer6369

Well, after reading 13 pages it seems the choice for replacing the 7-8 year old perfectly good tires on my ‘63 are the Hankook or the Diamondback. I don’t care for black walls on a ‘63 with the body color wheel look. I’m not entirely sure if I need them right this minute yet, though. I’m following your progress, Frankie!

Heres a question: I am selling a set of newish Cragar SS wheels off my ‘69 and it took me awhile but some members helped me figure out the weird date code, which seem to point to 1999. I feel like I have to tell anyone who considers buying them that it’s not recommended to use tires for driving that are 20 years old, even though the tread and walls look low-mile. In reality, Im selling the wheels but the tires are included.

However- as a result of this thread- it does seem that there is a real use for these Goodrich TAs as show car tires. The letters aren’t brown, nor will turn that way. They aren’t making them any more. I think these tires would be fine for cars driven on and off show car fields or to the occasional cruise in.

Thoughts? Is it “wrong” to sell these tires at all? I’m not interested in paying to remove them from the wheels.

OLE442

Heck those T/A's are about the same age as the ones on the 1972 442 I'm finishing up the restoration on!! And mine have less than 25 miles on them....I am not going to buy new one's I don't care what anyone thinks!

GTOguy

It's not wrong to sell the tires and wheels as they are. Those tires appear to be in excellent shape with zero UV degradation. They may be a bit hard by now, but definitely OK for a local show car or driver. I wouldn't drive cross country on them, but would have no problem using them in town for the next few years. I recently changed out a set of Goodyear Eagle ST's from 1992-94 on my '67 GTO, only because one of them showed signs of a deep crack. I didn't want to chance anything. The letters were (and are) still snow white and the rubber is still soft and not hardened.

roadster65

If they are sold with a caveat as to their date and suitability, the prospective purchaser is then able to make an informed decision as to their intended use and if they're fit for purpose.

Doing this you're being transparent and honest and have covered all bases in your duty of care in making the purchaser aware of what they're buying … - GV

tuxnharley

Well,, since we're talking about BFG TAs on other cars now, here's my experience. I have 15 year old (gasp, shock, horror!) TAs on my 67 Mustang .The tires have zero cracking or checking, maybe because the car is always stored indoors and covered. The rubber may be a little hard, but it still takes an imprint from a good push from my thumbnail. I see no reason to replace them, other than...............................

........................................ the damn white letters have always discolored and turned brownish since new. I can scrub the heck out of them with a Brillo pad or whatever and they will look great for about two months and then start to discolor again.

So from my perspective this isn't a new problem.

Frankie the Fink

I used to run Radial T/As on my first gen Mustangs and they are good tires somebody will want them.... The old T/A letters (circa 1996) NEVER turned dingy or brown for me; never scrubbed them just shot some glossy tire shine product on them occasionally.:




As to the Hankooks - still bright white and I still haven't touched them, anybody that's going to Lakeland Saturday can check them out - I'm quite satisfied with them at this point and not looking for any other solutions...

Guru of the wrench

Frankie, What is the width of the W /A on your Hankooks

OLE442

Is that a “K” body GT?

tuxnharley

No such thing as a K body per se. There was a K code engine , 289 solid lifter 271 hp named the HiPo.
The A code was 225 hp with a single 4bbl, the C code was 200 hp with a 2 bbl

These were all engine codes and were available in all body styles - fadtback, hard top, and convertible. You could also get a 200 ci straight 6!

OLE442

Well, the picture has the front fender engine emblems that appear to be the HiPo 289 emblems which anyone could add to any Mustang. I was asking if the body had the "K" designation in the VIN which would indicate that it was an original "K" HiPo engine equipped car....hence the "K" body question because it would have the "K" in the serial number if it were originally a HiPo 289 car.
Below is my 1965 Mustang 2+2 Fastback car which originally had the HiPo 289 engine emblem on the front fender and had a "K" in the vehicle ID number and was originally a HiPo 289 car. It had been drag raced and had a 351 Cleveland HO motor since it wasn't stock. I made it even less stock while I had it with a one piece glass front end (yes, actually fiberglass) and a Hurst Ram 4 shifter among other things.



So when I asked if it was a "K" body, I was just asking if it had a "K' in the vin since, it might not be a K body or even if it was, it might not have the original HiPo 289 in it. It's all actually a matter of semantics! Just a nice looking Mustang and I was curious of what it was.

Kinda like if someone had a 1969 BOSS 302 MUSTANG but it didn't have a "G" in the serial number...then the car wasn't originally a "real" BOSS 302.