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I've added PW to my 65 Coupe and 61 Roadster. The 65 was done in the early 90's and I ran across a guy who had a PW setup from a 63 and it worked out well. I did replace the door panels because I had seen some folks try to plug the old window crank holes and didn't like the look plus I needed new panels anyway. Back then, I'm not sure the aftermarket offered much in the way of PW kits and the setup I got was still in good shape, pivots were still decent and not sloppy but kinda remember having to replace a roller or two. You can use your existing non-PW console because if you look underneath the console in the area where the PW switch would be located (going off memory only here so stay with me), there were slight raised areas that I used as a template to cut out the rectangular hole for the new switch. There's also the need to cut the tunnel for the recessed cup for the wiring harness bundle under the switch, I'm looking around now for a Bigblock 65-66-67 and as expected, most didn't cone with PW but if I find the right one but no PW, I'll add it again like I did with the 65 Coupe and probably go with an aftermarket setup like Nu-Relic or Auto City Glass which is the kit I put into the 61.
Good luck.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
I took my non-PW console to a machine shop and had them cut the hole for the PW switch; didn't want my sometimes dicey workmanship to spoil the look of the console. I also bought new door panels and gave my old ones to a friend.
Louie, not a bad idea to have a machine shop handle the task. At the time I was just getting into putting PW into my '65 Coupe, I first figured I'd need to dig up a PW 64-67 console but upon finding the raised casting marks under the console I thought I could do the 'cut' but it still made me a tad bit nervous cutting the hole for the PW switch.
Nice option to have, in my opinion.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
I like the idea about the machine shop cutting/opening the hole up in my non p/w console, but i also thought it would be a good excuse to buy a dremel tool .
Still on the fence about who has the best conversion kit, the door panel is another concern, I remember seeing chrome buttons somewhere that have tangs on the bottom and you could just snap these into the hole of the panel? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-0-3...e-Plug/3013212
Is there an acceptable way to cover the area on the door panels where the window cranks were or do you need to factor in another $700 to $800 for new door panels?
A couple small tweeters and run them to your stereo perhaps?
I like the idea about the machine shop cutting/opening the hole up in my non p/w console, but i also thought it would be a good excuse to buy a dremel tool .
I drilled a hole in 4 corners first, then used the dremel, then finished it with a file.
Buns, thanks so much for sharing the picture & drilling of the console, I’m a visual learner ...
Here’s my stupid question I see your console has the threaded bosses for the switch to bolt into I haven’t had my console part yet but do cars (65 coupe 4spd. ) have them bosses already on them my car is currently a non-p/w car, did the factory send out all consoles with these bosses non p/w or not ?
Thanks again
Chalie
Does anyone have a pic of where the original circuit breaker for a p/w C2 bolts onto, I would like to copy exactly (of course) to have it look correct under dash/kick panel area also. Thanks again forum
I've added PW to my 65 Coupe and 61 Roadster. The 65 was done in the early 90's and I ran across a guy who had a PW setup from a 63 and it worked out well. I did replace the door panels because I had seen some folks try to plug the old window crank holes and didn't like the look plus I needed new panels anyway. Back then, I'm not sure the aftermarket offered much in the way of PW kits and the setup I got was still in good shape, pivots were still decent and not sloppy but kinda remember having to replace a roller or two. You can use your existing non-PW console because if you look underneath the console in the area where the PW switch would be located (going off memory only here so stay with me), there were slight raised areas that I used as a template to cut out the rectangular hole for the new switch. There's also the need to cut the tunnel for the recessed cup for the wiring harness bundle under the switch, I'm looking around now for a Bigblock 65-66-67 and as expected, most didn't cone with PW but if I find the right one but no PW, I'll add it again like I did with the 65 Coupe and probably go with an aftermarket setup like Nu-Relic or Auto City Glass which is the kit I put into the 61.
Good luck.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
hello there. I am working on a project 65 convertible, my doors insides are all rusty. so good time for any upgrades. What parts do I need to source from original car to make a corvette central kit work?
hello there. I am working on a project 65 convertible, my doors insides are all rusty. so good time for any upgrades. What parts do I need to source from original car to make a corvette central kit work?
I added the Auto City Glass kit to my 65 coupe. Straight forward but also can be tricky. Like making ABSOLUTELY sure the square hole you are going to grind in your console is square.
Also you have to drill a hole in the forward inside door jam for the wires. Be sure it does not hit the metal door support. Also the switch cup hole. And, the wiring harness is way too long.
I got it all done and it worked great. Until I took it to my friends house to show it off, Got stuck in the down position. Taking it back apart and dealing with the glass stuck down is no fun. this happened twice on the drivers door and once on the passenger door.
Long story short the aftermarket regulator arms are too flimsy and the motor is too fast so the window bottoms out and the arms flex and the gears jump off. I tried adding a larger bottom stop rubber from a 69 Camaro but that didn't help either. I got used to just touching the switch two or thee times and and letting the window coast down or up. That solved the issue. But, there is always the chance of a passenger unknowingly hangs on to the switch too long. I finally bought a nice pair of used window regulators out of a 67 to solve the issue.
Last edited by woodsdesign; 03-17-2024 at 04:07 PM.
I heard the same warning about late model PW motors being much quicker than the old style motors when I was looking for a PW Kit for my 61 Vette. I ordered it from AutoCity Glass but at the time, at least 8 years ago, maybe longer, I asked if they
still had the old style motors available and they did. Here's a pic of the kit I got from them and while the PW motor they supplied is noticeably different lookswise from the early GM versions, the speed was about the same, not faster.
Quite a bit different from the ACI motors most kits seem to use these days.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Since i have manual windows in my car i have never looked at the power window kit before reading this thread.
I have always thought that the "tubes" for the power window wiring was made of rubber which they are not.
Since i have manual windows in my car i have never looked at the power window kit before reading this thread.
I have always thought that the "tubes" for the power window wiring was made of rubber which they are not.
That was another tricky part. The bends are not right. I compared mine to a set or originals. I had to "re-bend" them. Not as easy as it sounds.
That was another tricky part. The bends are not right. I compared mine to a set or originals. I had to "re-bend" them. Not as easy as it sounds.
Are the aftermarked "tubes" to much bent or bent to little?
Off course it is great to have power windows but i really do not think that i would want to drille any holes in my car and cut up the center console for the switches..
Not that i think it would be difficult since i have been working a lot wiih cars and also always repair my cars myself..
I have always been like: If you need do some work done to your car do it yourself because then you know that the work done is proper.
Lets say if you have a new C8 and deliver the car to a car mechanic shop and lets say they take out a screw with a "special head" and they dropp the screw in the engine bay and can not find it the mechanic will just go and fetch a regular screw and put that in instead.. That is not how i work because i would look properly for the special screw to find it or replace it with an original screw..
10-20-2019, 11:57 PM
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