DansYellow66

Actually an owner/mechanic fail. Decided I needed to run the valves on my motor as lately it sounded like one was a bit loud when the motor was warmed up. Hard to tell one noise from another on this car due to the cam, compression and side pipes. Probably the 2nd or 3rd time I've done this since reassembling the car back in the 90s. Here is what I now finally woke up and noticed on removing the valve covers.







The aluminum rockers have been hitting the baffles on both sides as evidenced by the anodizing wear on the ends. When I looked at the valve covers the baffles were pretty worn and the metal was work hardened to where it was very, very brittle - tapped it with a small hammer and it just cracks and splits. Incidentally I found the piece missing for the one with a hole in it inside the baffles - it's laying on the top of the baffle.

Probably not good for the engine as it put some metal in the system. I run magnets on the filter and magnetic oil plug which may help some for the baffle metal but not for the aluminum from the rockers. Kind of explains why I always have a bit of fuzzies on the oil pan magnet at oil changes. I've been toying with tearing it down some day and building it back closer to stock so that day may now come but probably not this year.

More immediate problem is I can't put these valve covers back on the engine unless I snip and rip the baffles out of them which will probably create some pretty good oil seeps out of the grommets. Has anyone found any reasonably close to stock reproductions with less obtrusive baffles that clear aftermarket roller rocker arms with pretty high lift cams (.600")? These were early 90 era Trans Adapt chrome repros (not correct but looked period). Really don't want to run aluminum valve covers if I can avoid it.

DansYellow66

Anyone seen any of these? Tall OEM style steel valve covers. My problem wasn't so much height as I ran thick gaskets. Damn baffles.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-72-CHE...item41ba3a5ff9

Nowhere Man

Dan I has that trouble once. I slightly hit the baffle with a ball peen hammer to clear

DansYellow66

Keith - I started to try that but that's when I tapped it, the metal cracked and split. Apparently the metal is work hardened or something. And then the other one has a hole knocked in it and it's cracked and split too. When I get some new ones I'm going to check any baffles closely and modify them as necessary. At the time I knew I couldn't run - and didn't need drippers with the roller rockers, but I figured as long as I didn't have contact at the top of the valve cover I was good. Didn't think about the baffles.

DansYellow66

It looks like my old Trans-Dapt valve covers are technically "tall" measuring 2-3/4" high off of the workbench surface. Looks like OEM short ones measure 2-1/4 or 2-3/8". And then really tall ones go up over 3".

So, I doubt I can go much taller without issues with my breather pipe/air cleaner installation and apparently top of valve cover clearance is not an issue as not sign of contact there. Guess I'll order another set of these and work the interior baffles over to conform them for necessary clearance.

DansYellow66

Let me ask this. I was pretty much limited to ordering another set of Trans Dapt covers to stay close to OEM as the CRF version was not in stock anywhere. So I'm going to work the baffles over for a little clearance on the new valve covers before I install them. But my question is - does anyone see any reason I can't do a little careful removal on the end of the rocker arms where they have been hitting, for a little more clearance from them? I would tape them off to protect the roller bearings and pushrod roller and use a sanding drum on a dremel too to remove the aluminum and keep heat down.

GOSFAST

Hi Dan, the covers aren't really the problem, it's more the rockers!

Over the years here we've done hundreds of 100% stock-appearing BB Vette builds for the resto guys, we were instructed to use the OEM valve covers. Some were painted, some were chrome, ALL had to also use OEM "single-thick" valve cover gaskets! These "rules" were "etched-in-stone" so to speak.
Most have been on the "hyd-roller" platform, a few "flat-tappets", all these builds got a set of stainless roller rockers included, they're very cost-effective being under 200.00.

Only occasionally would we need to use some "short" Crower poly-locks on the intake rockers only. We actually put these components together in kit form and now sell them as a package.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of a more recent build with all the components mentioned above here. never had one build that didn't meet or surpass any customer's expectations?

DansYellow66

Well, that is an option. This engine was built in the mid-80 so the rockers are at least that old - old school roller rockers I guess. What brand of rockers are those - Crower?

If Crower - how long ago did you buy a set of these for under $200?

Thanks

Tiros

Dan,
My engine also mid-80s. I have Harland Sharp rollers that look similar to yours. My engine shop guy had to grind a corner of one of them to clear the covers. He knew would we would have to before we even put it together. He said it was a common thing to do. I never had a problem with it. I use old school M/T aluminum finned style. I had knock off the drippers with a ball been hammer otherwise the height was fine.

DansYellow66

Thanks Tiros - my motor originally had M/T aluminum valve covers on it also but they were pretty beat at the time so I was anxious to put something else on it. Knew not to get something with drippers and to run thick gaskets for adjusting nut clearance but didn't think about the baffles.

Here's what I did to the replacement cover baffles. They were heavier gage steel than the baffles in the older Trans Dapt steel covers. They also were not quite as deep into the valve cover width but maybe only by 1/8 to 3/16. Three cuts and some punch and hammer work and they appear to be clearanced. Had to spend some time washing and blowing them out to get all the Dremel cutting dust out of the crevices.





What I started with on my old ones.


These VCs are about 1/2" taller than original GM but I still have to run over-thickness gaskets to get adjusting nut clearance.

nfran

Dan, I know this is an older post but I had the same issue on my GM crate ZZ454 in my 65 Vette. After replacing the covers twice, I finally realized that the rockers were hitting the inside of the cover. I solved the issue with thicker gaskets from Summit Racing.

DansYellow66

Yes, I have always used the thick valve cover gaskets on too but my problem was rocker collision with the baffles - just two rockers - one each side. Sectioning and clearancing the baffles back further from the rockers worked out.

Old rat-a-tat-tat ones.



Replacement ones after modifying the baffles.




Thanks