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He did you a outstanding job & definitely earned that extra 100 you gave him - thanks for rewarding him for a job well done. Do you have any before pics - if so, please post.
Is it possible to put a clear coat over that finish?
Why would you want to ruin the finish with a clear coat? As it is, it can be maintained and re-compounded years down the line. Clear coat will simply start to peel like bad sunburn and the car will need a complete strip and repaint.
I've been painting and detailing cars for 30 years. I encourage anyone thinking of improving their single stage paint jobs to thoroughly read the following link. You or someone you hire can easily do more damage to the paint then good. Don't get aggressive with cutting it. It is thin. Super thin. Clear coat offers you a layer or two to cut and polish. Single stage is only 2-3 at the most... layers of paint. Clean it, condition it, protect it.
Clearcoat is as thin or thinner as the paint. Cut through it, and you are re-painting the car anyway. My issue with clear coat is longevity. I have never seen a BC/CC paint job last more than 15 years on a car that is used as a car. Single stage paint jobs can go decades, as the ones on 4 of my old vehicles have. (26 years, 34 years, 36 years, and 50+ years) with decent shine and no peeling/sunburn blisters. The BC/CC failed on my '94 Toyota in about 10 years. The 36 year old single stage on my '83 Toyota is still fine to this day.
I think that clear coat can do a little better than that - this is a '96 Mazda I bought new and sold after 17 years of use. It never, not once, saw the inside of a garage. It sat outside through Washington DC ice storms, snow and freezing temperatures from 1996 through 2003 then remained parked in the driveway of my Florida home for another 10 years in the harsh sun and monsoons... I don't think I ever put a coat of wax on it the whole time I had it...
I sold it in 2013 and the clear coat was just showing (barely) some deterioration at the edges of the hood:
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-24-2019 at 06:37 PM.
When I bought the car I knew up front that the paint had a lot of blemishes, orange peel and oxidation problems. The paint job was not the show stopper for me pulling the trigger to buy the car. My plan was to have a new paint job done based on the details that was given to me from the seller. The main reason I bought the car was because of the frame off restoration that was done years ago and the previous owner let the car sit for years after he finished for some reason. I was given an album with all the pictures during the restoration and all the parts purchase receipts. You can eat off every nut and bolt underneath the car.
I have the receipts for the engine rebuild, transmission rebuild, differential rebuild, brake calipers, brake rotors, brake pads, trailing arms rebuild, new Dewitt radiator, magnaflow exhaust, interior carpet, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, rear leaf spring, knock off wheels, bias ply gold strip 7.75-15 tires, coolant hoses and correct clamps/springs, new wiring harness and so many more receipts to list. My main point is I probably paid to much for the car ($60,000) and I really don't care if I paid to much, I love it and will never ever consider selling it, I drive it every weekend with a huge smile on my face. When I come home from work everyday I have to open the garage door and look at it.
The car has its original born with L76 motor, transmission and differential, radio delete, 402AA black leather interior (by the way it is the original black leather seats) I replaced the ring and pinion because when I first drove it I could feel that it was not the correct gear (3:55 was in it). The ring and pinion still had the yellow paint on them when the back lash was set. I got the codes off the differential which was AO and I put a 3:70 gear back to way I wanted it to be.
I guess at the end of the day I had nothing to lose by trying to restore the paint with the cut and buff to see what the out come would be. If it didn't work out then I would get a new paint job. Fortunately for me the results from the cut and buff was totally amazing and unexpected. Anyways thanks for all the replies.
I guess at the end of the day I had nothing to lose by trying to restore the paint with the cut and buff to see what the out come would be. If it didn't work out then I would get a new paint job. Fortunately for me the results from the cut and buff was totally amazing and unexpected. Anyways thanks for all the replies.
Cheers CF folks!!!!!
Not to stray too far off topic but the 2002 TBird I bought last February is a pristine, one-owner, 19,000 mile "survivor" and the only shortcuts the owner seemed to take was not caring for the paint, in fact, I'd call it almost abusive. I've done a bunch of paint correction on the car and "saved it' but it took a bunch of work. Buffing with Mequiar's Ultra Glaze, touching up some dolt's buffer "burn throughs" from earlier days and getting bad swirls out...
Some of the deeper scratches will just have to stay but its amazing what really good carnuba wax can hide - but it doesn't last long unfortunately...3 months on a garage kept car is pushing it... sealant will help some....
On my original lacquer, I have been VERY careful with only light compound. It looks good, but nothing like yours.
Others have told me I could go deeper but I'm chicken... I wish I had your guy locally!
07-24-2019, 10:46 AM
