SoCalErv

When installing the bracket do you attach with the rivets or use nuts & bolts for ease of installation?

If rivets are to be used how are they installed in the firewall? Is there a special tool, two man operation, I am lost?

65air_coupe

It's been many years since I added a booster to my car but as I remember the holes for the upper mounting tabs actually go into the cowl vent area where you have easy access so you can use bolts and washers.

Frankie the Fink

The PB setup has a metal reinforcement plate that is riveted into the cowl vent cavity and the booster ears attach to that from the engine side of the firewall with nuts and bolts. Check your AIM. The nuts and bolts will actually hold that plate in place but if you want to”fake” the rivets just JBWeld some rivet heads on the plate. Nobody will know. This is the repro plate:

https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-67-p...unt-plate.html

SoCalErv

Thank you.

I just assumed it went into the firewall. You know the story about assuming!

Is this an easy install?

I had put this project off because of my conception. Think I will source the kit and get after it.

I know the single MC is fine non-assist is fine, but I prefer the feel of power brakes.

Frankie the Fink

Adding PB is a very easy install....depending on the car you may want to order the M/C to frame junction block hard brake line for power brakes....the manual line may, or may not, be long enough and shaped right for the PB master cylinder location.

Tampa Jerry

Great addition. don't forget to get the vacuum port on the intake manifold to accommodate the booster. It may already have the extra port. Jerry

C2Dude

I agree. Converted my 66 L-79 over to dual master with boost and it made a world of difference. Easy install and I just used SS nuts/bolts to attach the upper bracket and reinforcement plate, did not see the need for the rivets in my application.

Frankie the Fink

The only purpose they serve is to hold the plate in the cowl if the booster is removed- which occurs like never.

If if you think it’s easy bucking those rivets in the cramped cowl cavity - knock yourself out.

Tampa Jerry

No, I did not even bother to use the rivets. Jerry

Frankie the Fink

Let me see, an owner is totally faking his car having the power brake option.....booster, PB master cylinder,cowl cavity reinforcing plate, brake line, PB rubber pedal pad, metal brake switch light striker.....

But, dammit, those do-nothing rivets better be just like factory...

DONR

I did what C2Dude did, but I had to use a dremel tool to remove a little bonding material that was not letting the plates fit flat.

Frankie the Fink

No, I don't "think" I'm fooling anyone, I "know" I am.....my fake rivet heads passed regional NCRS judging...
As did my solid state voltage regulator, solid state radio, fake lock out on my Hurst shifter, my stock alternator converted to 100 amps, and, a half dozen other things...

Its a hobby

Frankie the Fink

Man - I hadn't thought of that! Hmmm...

Seriously, even the NCRS's criteria is that components must, "....appear as factory" and they pass...

That includes restamped engines, repro Delco batteries with modern AGM batteries hidden inside and convertible top tags "hot glued" onto the rear window and even hair spray used to "knock down" shiny paint in door jambs.

I've seen it all on the judging field and I don't worry myself about it...
Enough said...

Frankie the Fink

I have a 93% Regional Second Flight split window and have judged cars more than a couple of times...
Its not about "all original" cars, its about cars that appear as factory....buy yourself a Judging Guide Reference Manual...and you'll see. There are very, very few real "survivor" cars and that is a class unto itself.

reno stallion

If you have manual brakes now the PB push rod dose not go in the same hole on brake pedal. At least it didn't when I went from power to manual

75SHARK

I came across this thread because I'm about to convert my 67 to power brakes. I assume I'd have to drill through the firewall in order to install the bracket bolts? I haven't done this before and just trying to make a mental picture of what I need to to.


Rob

pop23235

Not exactly. You will need to make 2 holes into the vent area, add nutplate for top 2 bolts. Bottom mount to pedal assy. studs.

C2Dude

And I used stainless bolts with lock nuts at the upper position, no need to go with rivets unless judging I guess.

75SHARK

Thank you for the replies. So are you essentially going into the wiper cowl area below the grille? Edit I've not found out that it is in fact where they go.

pop23235

If you have a correct booster, mount it up to mark the two top bolts and see where they fall