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'66 Muncie has suddenly begun popping out of 3rd gear under light load or deceleration. Decided to check the linkage adjustment and made up a 0.646 x 3 inch tool from 1/8 aluminum per the manual. Slid under car and realized that I can barely see the adjustment slot let alone get the tool in there.
Can the tool be inserted with the transmission in the car? Can it be done from above with the shifter stud rubber boot removed?
just readjusted my resently installed hurst competition shifter.You can only install from under he car.
you need a light to see adjustment slot. I used a long nose plyer to help install the adjustment tool.
If you need a bit more room you can disconnect a shift rod from the trans . Not the shifter.
'66 Muncie has suddenly begun popping out of 3rd gear under light load or deceleration. Decided to check the linkage adjustment and made up a 0.646 x 3 inch tool from 1/8 aluminum per the manual. Slid under car and realized that I can barely see the adjustment slot let alone get the tool in there.
Can the tool be inserted with the transmission in the car? Can it be done from above with the shifter stud rubber boot removed?
Thanks,
Ralph
I did the adjustment recently with a helping hand from a friend. He was under the car and I was inside in the driver seat. It was easy to feel on the shifter lever on the left-right movement when the 1-2, 3-4 and reverse shifters were lined up. Has functioned flawlessly after the adjustment.
Last edited by 1965fuelie; 08-17-2018 at 04:15 AM.
A Hurst shifter has stops on 2nd and 3rd gear positions and if misadjusted can prevent full engagement of the gear and popping out. A Muncie doesn't have an adjustable stop for these gear positions so shifter adjustment is usually not a cause of the transmission popping out of gear. If it's that misadjusted you probably can't shift it at all due to misalignment of the neutral gate. Your description sounds like classic symptoms of weak/worn - slider/gear engagement teeth that probably will need to be addressed by a re-build. A bad pilot bushing is another possibility but I believe that more often impacts 4th gear. Just my 2 cents
A Hurst shifter has stops on 2nd and 3rd gear positions and if misadjusted can prevent full engagement of the gear and popping out. A Muncie doesn't have an adjustable stop for these gear positions so shifter adjustment is usually not a cause of the transmission popping out of gear. If it's that misadjusted you probably can't shift it at all due to misalignment of the neutral gate. Your description sounds like classic symptoms of weak/worn - slider/gear engagement teeth that probably will need to be addressed by a re-build. A bad pilot bushing is another possibility but I believe that more often impacts 4th gear. Just my 2 cents
I think Dan has hit it on the head. 2nd and 3rd gear synchro units take the most abuse. I, too, don't think adjusting it will make any difference. Time for a rebuild. Once you have it out, do it right and go through the whole unit with new brass rings for all of the forward shifting gears. Also, examine the entire second gear synchro unit and replace it if at all questionable. No sense going back in at another date and repeating the process.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 08-17-2018 at 08:46 AM.
I think Dan has hit it on the head. 2nd and 3rd gear synchro units take the most abuse. I, too, don't think adjusting it will make any difference. Time for a rebuild. Once you have it out, do it right and go through the whole unit with new brass rings for all of the forward shifting gears. Also, examine the entire second gear synchro unit and replace it if at all questionable. No sense going back in at another date and repeating the process.
Thanks to all for the replies. I should have mentioned that the transmission has only about 1500 miles since rebuild, so it's unlikely to be wear. A comment from 1965fulie popped the lightbulb on in my head - The neutral gate has been a little hard to find when moving from 1-2 to 3-4 since the rebuild. I think this is all about the alignment of the shifter and I will hopefully get back under the car today.
Ralph
The neutral gate has been a little hard to find when moving from 1-2 to 3-4 since the rebuild. I think this is all about the alignment of the shifter and I will hopefully get back under the car today.
Ralph
Adjust it as described in post #4. Quick, easy, painless.
If you know what the neutral gate is supposed to feel like, and 1-2 lines up with R, have your helper adjust one or the 3-4 rods until the neutral gate is good all the way across..
The only way I'd fiddle with that tool is if I was installing everything from scratch and that would only be to make sure the shifter was centered, fore/aft.
Thanks to all for the replies. I should have mentioned that the transmission has only about 1500 miles since rebuild, so it's unlikely to be wear.
Ralph
Did they replace any gears or syncro sliders at the time of rebuild? The brass syncro rings only help to engage a gear or upshift/downshift without clashing and they have no effect on kicking out of gear. A typical rebuild usually only includes replacement of the brass rings unless there are complaints at the time of kicking out of gear, which for an experienced rebuilder will then require looking closely at the gear and slider and replacing whichever or both are showing wear. If the gears or sliders were worn and marginal at the time of rebuild - but still holding in gear, they may now have worn beyond the point of no return.
But try the easy stuff first - if the 3-4 shifter arm is way off the neutral gate it may not be pushing the slider all the way forward over the 3rd gear engagement teeth. Adjusting the 3-4 shifter arm to where it is marginally adjusted to favor 3rd gear engagement (pulling the transmission lever fully to the rear) but still allows transfer in the neutral gate might gain you a little.
Did they replace any gears or syncro sliders at the time of rebuild? The brass syncro rings only help to engage a gear or upshift/downshift without clashing and they have no effect on kicking out of gear. A typical rebuild usually only includes replacement of the brass rings unless there are complaints at the time of kicking out of gear, which for an experienced rebuilder will then require looking closely at the gear and slider and replacing whichever or both are showing wear. If the gears or sliders were worn and marginal at the time of rebuild - but still holding in gear, they may now have worn beyond the point of no return.
But try the easy stuff first - if the 3-4 shifter arm is way off the neutral gate it may not be pushing the slider all the way forward over the 3rd gear engagement teeth. Adjusting the 3-4 shifter arm to where it is marginally adjusted to favor 3rd gear engagement (pulling the transmission lever fully to the rear) but still allows transfer in the neutral gate might gain you a little.
Tried today, but no helper to work the shifter while I was underneath. Will try again tomorrow.
Did they replace any gears or syncro sliders at the time of rebuild? The brass syncro rings only help to engage a gear or upshift/downshift without clashing and they have no effect on kicking out of gear. A typical rebuild usually only includes replacement of the brass rings unless there are complaints at the time of kicking out of gear, which for an experienced rebuilder will then require looking closely at the gear and slider and replacing whichever or both are showing wear. If the gears or sliders were worn and marginal at the time of rebuild - but still holding in gear, they may now have worn beyond the point of no return.
But try the easy stuff first - if the 3-4 shifter arm is way off the neutral gate it may not be pushing the slider all the way forward over the 3rd gear engagement teeth. Adjusting the 3-4 shifter arm to where it is marginally adjusted to favor 3rd gear engagement (pulling the transmission lever fully to the rear) but still allows transfer in the neutral gate might gain you a little.
A good point made by Dan."'Rebuild" can mean many things. In most cases, it is replacing the blocker rings and that is about it. The brass blocker rings are nothing more than a cone clutch and, as Dan indicated, have nothing to do with a transmission kicking out of gear. Check the invoice of parts and see if any of the synchro hubs were replaced.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 08-17-2018 at 10:16 PM.
08-16-2018, 09:58 AM
Muncie shifter adjustment
