beekppr

Haha, I missed that completely. But that's my thought, try a few simple inexpensive things first hoping that saves the trouble of the big job. I can't imagine how I'd react if I pulled the evaporator and found it to be solid.

DUB

WE are all good...and YES....I would have to know that the evaporator core was bad.

You would be surprised on how many C3's I replace due to them leaking or needing to be removed due to a HUGE amount of leaves and crud has actually began do kinda decompose and fill in the front face of the evaporator core and block air flow.

DUB

beekppr

When I took my C2 apart, there must have been a bucketload of mud and leaves down in the cowl vent passageway but I only recall a couple leaves inside the evaporator case. everything looked pretty good once I cleaned it really good. As bad as my car was when I got it, there were other aspects of it that were in pretty decent shape. Mine was abused badly until the mid 70s then got parked in a storage unit for 30 years so some things never had a chance to get completely destroyed.

GearheadJoe

I have done both of the following operations separately:

1) Remove and reinstall A/C evaporator with the engine in the car
2) Remove and reinstall the engine

As I stated in an earlier post, removing and re-installing the evaporator is a tedious and unpleasant task. HOWEVER, even if my evaporator failed tomorrow and I had to replace it again, I would NOT pull the engine to somehow make the overall job "easier."

If you add the work required to remove and reinstall the engine (and the risk of damaging the engine compartment and the paint), removing the engine to gain access to the evaporator simply doesn't make sense.

In fact, as I recall, the most frustrating thing about the evaporator replacement was the limited access between the evaporator assembly and the fender. Removing the engine does nothing to help that problem. To help with that problem, you need to pull the body off the frame.

I mentioned in an earlier post that I would look at the GM shop manual to refresh myself on the evaporator replacement procedure described there. Unfortunately, I have been unable to locate my copy of the appropriate manual.

For the C2 Corvette, the only complete shop manual that was published was the 1963 edition. This edition did not include A/C because the A/C option was introduced mid-way through the 1963 production year.

Supplements to the 1963 manual were published in 1964 and 1965. These can be purchased for about $20 from the NCRS and other suppliers. Somewhere I have the 1965 supplement that describes the recommended procedure for removing and reinstalling the evaporator.

I would strongly recommend getting this document and reviewing it before deciding how to proceed with your project. Removing the engine to gain access to the evaporator only makes a bad situation worse.

My only other comment is to reinforce the notion of being absolutely sure the evaporator is leaking before you go to the trouble of replacing it. As someone else noted in another post, a good access point for a refrigerant sniffer is to remove the blower resistor on the top of the evaporator (just two screws) and insert the probe there,

Powershift

I don't disagree with this, and it fact it is a great second point to check. The reason I like to also check at the inside AC vents is because the inside is more isolated from the other AC components in the engine bay, and thus less likely to have contamination from another source and provide a false positive.

I would now do both areas before confirming a leak and removing the evaporator core.



Larry