[C1] Hood repair method
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Hood repair method
After 60 years of constant use, the hood on my 55 developed cracks around the hinge mount plate to the point that I had to be very careful whenever opening or closing it. I think this is not an uncommon problem in early C1s. I tried various methods to repair it, but sooner or later the cracks would reappear.
After talking with DUB on this forum and discussing various options, I finally decided to do a proper, albeit more invasive, repair. I thought I would share this with others who might have a similar problem.
Basically, by carefully using heat and various flat tools, I separated the front of the supporting frame from the hood skin. The key was soften the bonding material with as much heat as possible without blistering the paint on the top surface of the hood. I worked small sections at a time with a heat gun, one hand feeling the temperature on the opposite side while inserting a putty knife between the frame and the outer skin. To monitor the temperature, I would remove the heat as soon as I could not comfortably keep my hand on the surface. I then I tapped the putty knife between the two layers of fiberglass. One of the more useful tools I found was a thin masonry trowel. In just over an hour I used a thin blade Dremel cutter to make end cuts and removed the frame.
I then removed the nut plate from the inner frame, and laminated 4 layers of fiberglass cloth on the inside and two on the outside of the frame. I sanded the repair areas then riveted the nut plate back in place. I then used Vette Panel Adhesive to bond the frame back to the skin using a bonding strip at the frame joints and filling the cracks and holes with VPA.
Initially I was very reluctant to attempt this repair since my experience in working with fiberglass was limited. However, once I got into it, I became more confident and glad I finally fixed it correctly. In the end I have a solid hood again--one that I won't have to worry about for another 60 years or so!
Cracks around hinge plate. The other side was worse.
Carefully separating the frame from the skin.
A masonry trowel worked well.
Final cut to separate the frame to be repaired.
Bonding strips were used to reinforce the joints.
Bonding the frame back in place.
Final repair before paint.
Primed.
Final result.
After talking with DUB on this forum and discussing various options, I finally decided to do a proper, albeit more invasive, repair. I thought I would share this with others who might have a similar problem.
Basically, by carefully using heat and various flat tools, I separated the front of the supporting frame from the hood skin. The key was soften the bonding material with as much heat as possible without blistering the paint on the top surface of the hood. I worked small sections at a time with a heat gun, one hand feeling the temperature on the opposite side while inserting a putty knife between the frame and the outer skin. To monitor the temperature, I would remove the heat as soon as I could not comfortably keep my hand on the surface. I then I tapped the putty knife between the two layers of fiberglass. One of the more useful tools I found was a thin masonry trowel. In just over an hour I used a thin blade Dremel cutter to make end cuts and removed the frame.
I then removed the nut plate from the inner frame, and laminated 4 layers of fiberglass cloth on the inside and two on the outside of the frame. I sanded the repair areas then riveted the nut plate back in place. I then used Vette Panel Adhesive to bond the frame back to the skin using a bonding strip at the frame joints and filling the cracks and holes with VPA.
Initially I was very reluctant to attempt this repair since my experience in working with fiberglass was limited. However, once I got into it, I became more confident and glad I finally fixed it correctly. In the end I have a solid hood again--one that I won't have to worry about for another 60 years or so!
Cracks around hinge plate. The other side was worse.
Carefully separating the frame from the skin.
A masonry trowel worked well.
Final cut to separate the frame to be repaired.
Bonding strips were used to reinforce the joints.
Bonding the frame back in place.
Final repair before paint.
Primed.
Final result.
The following 5 users liked this post by Ktholin:
csherman (04-05-2018),
DAN70 (04-05-2018),
Frankie the Fink (04-05-2018),
GTOguy (04-05-2018),
jimh_1962 (04-05-2018)
#3
Team Owner
Outstanding result, and a very satisfying feeling of accomplishment.
#5
Team Owner
Damn fine job IMO..
#7
Man, good for you for taking that on - looks perfect!
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2015
Location: Fresno California
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VERY impressive. Way to go!
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Plano IL
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C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
very common
they break out easily
You can section in just the one side
The VPA or Glasin will hold and it wont break out.
Good repair !
I am doing one right now on a '56
they break out easily
You can section in just the one side
The VPA or Glasin will hold and it wont break out.
Good repair !
I am doing one right now on a '56
Last edited by csherman; 04-05-2018 at 11:41 AM.
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Chris, I should give you some credit as well. I saw Lanning's website on the 54 that you are doing for him. You did a similar repair on his hood.
Last edited by Ktholin; 04-05-2018 at 06:31 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Ktholin:
54vetteguy (04-06-2018),
csherman (04-06-2018)
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Plano IL
Posts: 5,113
Received 1,462 Likes
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C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
Graciously thank you. I did, his front mounts were all broken out too. Very common - the glass is not that thick and people tend to horse the hoods up and over center. Breaks the glass and the nut plate rivets pull thru the glass. Yours and Johns will be strong for years to come !!! I appreciate the kudos
The following users liked this post:
54vetteguy (04-06-2018)
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Graciously thank you. I did, his front mounts were all broken out too. Very common - the glass is not that thick and people tend to horse the hoods up and over center. Breaks the glass and the nut plate rivets pull thru the glass. Yours and Johns will be strong for years to come !!! I appreciate the kudos