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The original '67 rally wheels (which should pose no clearance problems for you) are 15"X6" with 3 1/2" of backspacing. These are not too expensive and shouldn't too difficult to come by. There's probably a couple of sets on the for sale Forum right now. Just be sure that the wheels spin true. It is not uncommon to find a few that have been curb'd and bent in the past.
The '68 rally wheels are 15"X7" with 3 3/4" backspacing. These should also clear on your car. You may find that with the car in the air and rear tires at full 'droop' the ends of the spring get very close to the edge of the rim with these wheels. When the car is on the ground however, you will have more than an inch of clearance.
This '65 has the '68 15"X7" rally wheels on it.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks! Good info. Always loved the classic look of redlines and rallys.
I am the last one to talk about incorrect parts and modifications. My 65 is no where near stock and I use many other year parts because I like them. I am concerned you may have been snookered on your purchase with with title, vin plate and car. If you want to proceed on with checking I would look at the frame crossmember under the crankshaft pulley. Starting in 65 the frames have a curved recess at the crank pulley. That was to allow clearance for the BB engines starting in 65. 63/64 do not have this recess. If the frame has the recess I would very concerned.
Now wheels. I like Torque Thrust wheels but I like the grey centers. Very retro looking.
Tom
Just checked the frame crossmember and it does not appear to have the recess. If anyone has pics, would be helpful.
Thanks All for the feedback and advice. The car history as follows by provided documentation...
Purchased by Volo Auto Museum (IL title) in 2012 from previous 17 year owner. This was the owner that did the 65 "updates".
The individual I purchased from, bought it from Volo 4 years ago. New MI title.
I purchased last week and obtained new WI title.
20 years of ownership in three different states, should have turned up some discrepancy if the vehicle was stolen, salvaged, etc... shouldn't it?
64 vin plate would be spot welded to the crossbar, 65 used rivets. its hard, but not impossible to duplicate the 63-64 spot welds, and most don't go through the trouble.
[QUOTE=Bradysdad;1595286896]Thanks All for the feedback and advice. The car history as follows by provided documentation...
Purchased by Volo Auto Museum (IL title) in 2012 from previous 17 year owner. This was the owner that did the 65 "updates".
The individual I purchased from, bought it from Volo 4 years ago. New MI title.
I purchased last week and obtained new WI title.
20 years of ownership in three different states, should have turned up some discrepancy if the vehicle was stolen, salvaged, etc... shouldn't it?[/QUOTE]
Not necessarily. Here is a possible scenario for you. Lets say there was a 1965 Corvette stolen and for what ever reason it was not reported. The people that stole it had access to a salvage yard or individual that had a totaled 1964 and bought the title and V.I.N. tag and switch then to this car. Even if it WAS reported stolen someone would have to check for any hidden V.I.N. to prove this took place. The down side is that if this IS the case the owner at the time of theft or any insurance company that paid a claim on the car are still the legal owners. If other owners ever had any suspicions of this they may keep their mouths shut in fear of loosing the car. This is why I brought it up earlier in the thread when you asked for comments. It looked like you had not really taken physical possession of the car when you started the thread so I would have been investigating this before you actually had the car in your hands and may want to bail on buying the car.
UPDATE: Thanks to all who added their thoughts and suggestions. Much appreciated! I found the frame VIN and it matches the VIN tag and title!! Amazing what some WD40 and a rag will do. Going to crawl under and check the tranny over the weekend.
What a relief.... I also took a closer look at the front fenders and it is obvious now, where they cut out the original 64 side louvers and glassed in the 65 active vents. The cutting and glass work can be clearly seen on the back side of the fenders.
Every day a new learning experience....Thanks again!
UPDATE: Thanks to all who added their thoughts and suggestions. Much appreciated! I found the frame VIN and it matches the VIN tag and title!! Amazing what some WD40 and a rag will do. Going to crawl under and check the tranny over the weekend.
What a relief.... I also took a closer look at the front fenders and it is obvious now, where they cut out the original 64 side louvers and glassed in the 65 active vents. The cutting and glass work can be clearly seen on the back side of the fenders.
Every day a new learning experience....Thanks again!
I am happy for you. It just seemed strange that someone would go to all of the expense and work to update the car to look like a 65.
OTOH, a lot of people took the rear window and "split" out of 63s in 64 and put a 64 rear window in. Some did it for visbility but others did it so it looked like they had a "new" car.
I have a 65 that previous owners made to look like a 67. VIN matches on tag and frame and I always thought why go through the trouble.
Originally Posted by 68hemi
I am happy for you. It just seemed strange that someone would go to all of the expense and work to update the car to look like a 65.
OTOH, a lot of people took the rear window and "split" out of 63s in 64 and put a 64 rear window in. Some did it for visbility but others did it so it looked like they had a "new" car.
UPDATE: Thanks to all who added their thoughts and suggestions. Much appreciated! I found the frame VIN and it matches the VIN tag and title!! Amazing what some WD40 and a rag will do. Going to crawl under and check the tranny over the weekend.
What a relief.... I also took a closer look at the front fenders and it is obvious now, where they cut out the original 64 side louvers and glassed in the 65 active vents. The cutting and glass work can be clearly seen on the back side of the fenders.
Every day a new learning experience....Thanks again!
Whew! Glad to hear it! I was concerned for you. Now back to wheels. Take a look around here.
Thanks Tom. Cool site! Almost forgot why I originally started this post.
I have decided on the Chevy Rally wheels, red line tires and all the trim/caps that go along with it. I am planning on finding some 15x7 and running 205/75/15s. I assume the standard 15x7 backspacing (3.75 I believe) should work with clearance and disc brakes?
Feedback appreciated and thanks to ALL for the guidance on my previous issue....
08-03-2017, 11:01 PM
